What does a machinest usually charge for a .30 over bore?

I saw the casting number or I think it was the manfu. date which was 25494. I think the engine was swapped put not sure if that makes a difference. Is there any way you I can confirm that I have magnum heads? Because my valve covers have a sticker with a number (I think 256 or something), and I have seen pics of valve covers that have different numbers than mine.

rtkota5point9
aren't you on dakotadurango?
Pics avail. @ http://dakota-durango.com/forum/showthread.php?t=30595

 

Yeah I am. And you should have the magnum heads. I don't seee how you wouldnt

 

I called a shop and told him what I needed. Long block rebuild with forged aluminum pistons and .30 over bore, I told him I was using a supercharger. He called to get a price on the pistons, and called me back. I think they get the block from somebody else or something because he said he mentioned to the guy he called that I wanted a .30 over bore and aluminum piston's and that I was using a supercharger, and that the guy replied ok I know what he want's. And then quoted me at $950 with what I requested and that if the heads are craked there was a $250 ea. core charge bringing the price to $1450 w/6k mile warranty but doesn't cover overheating.
He told me that he didn't know what I wanted the .30+ bore and aluminum pistons, but that when boring .30+, more heat is created and in the summer time it will tend to get hotter. He asked what I planed to do with it race it etc. I said occaisonaly race it.LOL
Is this true about the block heating with .30 over bore? Or is this nothing to worry about? And as for the piston whould I ask what brand, flat, dished, and what compression should be at? Any other questions I shoul ask him?

 

The bore will cause more heating because you're taking away some cylinder wall, the less metal there is, the less heat can be dissipated through it. Why are you getting the bore anyways? Why not just get some dished forged pistons and rods? It should be cheaper than the machining would be.

 

Hello

In regards to my rebuild,

I was going to have a .30 over Probe forged piston with a custom grid Crower cam rebuild by a local shop. I was surprised that I found a shop in my area that knew about these trucks and they were going to call Crower to give the specs and have a cam made. They started to expalin how they need to match the head flow and piston to get the compression needed for the blower. So my brother (he was going to help me out with the rebuild cost) said to get it done with these guys, and they seemed to know what they are doing. BUT since I talked to the shop that was going to SUPPOSEBLY going to the a rebuild with the forged pistons for $950.00, I said lets talk to this $950 guy (BAD IDEA), since he said $950, I thought shoot more money for other mods.
I picked up my mechanic buddy since he lives in that area. We got there and the guy tried lecturing about how a .30 over bore would get hot and that .30 is only done to top fuel race cars, my buddy said B.S. I don't know what they call these shops, but he doesn't build there, he calls to a place in L.A. tells them what he needs and they deliver them core exchange. And calls LA and tells them I have a blower and need something built for it, they call him back and tell him I need a different cam and pistons. And he told my brother that the reason they need that is so that it can go faster (racing purpose), and my borther says that he aint going to let me get that, he told me to take off the supercharger and run a stock engine. We agreed to a stock block with the KB, and that he would pay for it. I told my buddy, I would get some different head gaskets and I gasket kit, high volume oil pump and a double roller timing chain. He said YUP.
So I ended up going with a stock longblock rebuild, not a bad deal. At least it will better than before. The guy calls me the next day and says my heads are craked, core charge $250 alright no problem. He calls me today that the block is there, I go it up and hw shows me the old heads, the cracks run form valve to valve, cant see them unless the valves are off. I came home with the block and the block reads 05088, birth date I belive. And its cut at 10, and he starts talking about it being a virgin. So I don't know what the hell to do, the guy form the shop is an AS&HOl$. And I know he's going to come up with some stupid story, (he had even told me that all blocks form 91up were the same.) So I don't know if it being a 88 block I think LA series, will be different than the magnum I should have, or are the blocks the same and the heads is the only difference? Or are all block the same? Or Im I just thinkg too much, and need to get off the interent lol?

I also found out that the injectors I have are for pre96 5.9 ( checked online and at the delaership), so im not sure if that had anything to do with the raw fuel smell. I also ran the computer # and it came back as a mopar perfromance ecu for a 5.2 5-speed, not sure what the deal is there, but im going to check at the dealership tommarow.

Oh and sorry about the long story and for asking all the other question's about pistons and ended up going with stock longblock only to ask more question's. LOL. Im just starting to get fustrated with this truck rebuild. And I don't want to say the he!! with it and sell it.


Thanks

 

Hmm sounds like you got some issues. LA blocks are NOT the same as Magnum blocks!!! And why wouldnt you get forged pistons??!! They arent going to JUST help you go faster, they are going to make it so you're not in this position in a few years again because of the blower. Stock pistons were NOT made for a blower. They will eventually fail, especially if you run into any detonation under boost. Those things can be destroyed in seconds if you accidently get a lean condition or temps get too hot in the chamber. Get a Magnum block (BTW what's wrong with your block again? I must have missed it) Get some ported heads, or even stock for now, not a big deal, and get some forged pistons and rods. Stock bore, some FMS 24# injectors. And you'll be stylin.

 

The reason why I messed with the block is because I figured that it was out so may as well rebuild it, I know itsmoney beingwasted right nowbut eventullay I will do the forged build. Since my injectors aren't the ones that I suppose to have, I was going to get the right ones(have part number)used form a junkyard. Or do the ford injectors fit? I thought maybe since there not the ones that are suppose to be on there, that it might have something to do with the missfiring. But I am keeping the optmizer so will that be a problem with the 24lbs fords?

 

Another thing I found out is that my ecu is a mopar performance part. I don't think that it will work with the KB optimizer.

 

It will work, but it's adding timing which is a big NO NO! lolTHAT could be why you're getting missfires,well, its probably detonation! Get rid of it and grab a stocker. YES the FMS ones fit, and will work fine.

 

So new computer and 24lbs injectors is what I need.
Has anyone had luck with the ebay ecu, I found the one for my application for $160.00 shipped? I am thinking about just buying the ecu for now and maybe getting the injectors late, the part number injectors that I have now are for a 96 and older 5.9L which are slightly larger than the ones that I am suppose to have. If I don't put them in now will it be harder to change after the KB is on, will I have to remove the KB to change them out, and do you take it off to change your cap and rotor?
Are these the injectors that I need:
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...p;autoview=sku