OK, long history here (short history actually, but a long description). Friend's mom has a '95 Intrepid 3.3L. It wouldn't start so she took it to a tire shop (I don't know why, maybe she buys tires at the car wash too). They told her it would be $500 to replace the fuel pump. I told her they're screwing her and I did it for $100 plus parts ($150 for the pump assembly and $25 for a vent that should come with the assembly but doesn't).

BTW, for anyone who doesn't know, there is a trap door in the trunk under the lining where you can replace the fuel pump in about 30 minutes without ever dropping the tank.

Anyway, that didn't fix it (yes I should have troubleshot it before I ever replaced it). So I poked around a little bit, but without a book or troubleshooting guide I could only check the stuff like relays, etc. I tried pulling codes with the key switch, but couldn't get a check engine light. That night I hooked up to AllData and got the troubleshooting charts relating to the fuel pump circuit, ASD, No Start Troubleshooting Charts, wiring schematics, cam and crank sensors, etc. But without the DRB, I had limitations. I went back the next day (the car was at her house, 30 miles away), cleaned the battery, readjusted the connectors (first on theModule behind the batterybecause I thought it was the PCM, then on the PCM when I actually found it), and followed all of the troubleshooting guides. The only thing I found wrong was the TPS was reading at the low-end of its specs, but still technically within specs. Then I put it all back together frustrated and the damn thing started with a perfect Check Engine Light.

So I figured the problem was that one of the mountings on the PCM was missing and the movement of the PCM worked the connector loose. I fixed that and went on my way, even though I never completely felt like I resolved the problem. That was the week before Christmas. Yesterday morning I get an email saying it won't start again. Except this time its 40 miles away and in a parking garage (she has permission to leave it there until Saturday). I went out and found that again there is no check engine light, sort of. If you cycle the key multiple times, it will blip (less than 1 second) about 40% of the time. But still not enough to get a code. So I disconnected the battery, removed and replaced the 60-pin connector for the PCM again, and reconnected the battery to no avail.

So today I'm going through AllData again, checking out wiring schematics to test for power and circuit grounds.

What I need are suggestions or actual knowledge on what and how to test this beast tomorrow when I go back into town. I figure what probably happened was I inadvertantly fixed a connection problem at themodule connector last time, so obviously that will be what I check first. I will also check the circuits to make sure it gets battery and switched power and that the grounds are working. And ohm check the Cam and Crank Sensor wires (a problem I found with a Caravan a few years back). But without a DRB or a trouble code to work from,I'm pretty much peeing in the wind. Any help on a direction to point the stream would be appreciated.

Thanx

 

Ignition Switch. Removed 40-pin PCM connector, no switched power at terminal #9. Removed Fuel Pump Relay and ASD relay and no switched power at pin 86 on either. Fuse tested fine, no power on either side of fuse. Plugged in new switch and it all worked perfectly. A $45 ignition switch is a much better part to replace than a $300 PCM.