[:@] I just bought a 91 Ramcharger 5.2 in Alaska (craigslist $1500) last winter and recently moved to California. The robot at the smog shop read "Gross Polluter" during acceleration. I was kind of afraid I might not pass because ever since I brought her down to the lower 48 on a ferry, she dumps white smoke out of the tail pipe on any startup below 50 degrees until warmed up, then no smoke whatsoever. The kid at the smog shop wasn't much into diagnosis, but said maybe a bad EGR. I replaced the whole EGR valve today and dumped the $8 "smog pass guarantee" snake oil **** in the tank to try and burn some carbon. She has 163,000 miles but seems to run fine. Pretty much a dog up hills, I guess because of the weight matched with MPI and the smaller V8, but I manage by constantly using the O/D OFF button back and forth.
Although the exhaust fumes from the pipe are atrocious, and I get a little exhaust in the cabin with the windows down, I somehow passed smog easily in AK, after replacing plugs, wires, PCV, crankcase breather, fuel filter, water pump, hoses, thermostat, radiator and a few others. I for whatever reason
DIDN'T swap the dist. cap and rotor, and the O2 sensor was totally seized up, so I passed on it too I use mid grade and treat her with premium on payday cause she hates the cheap ****. I DID use a hotter thermostat in AK, cause she wouldn't heat up the cabin for about 45 minutes of highway driving of Alaska's often sub zero temps- even WITH card board over the grill!!! Even the hotter thermo didn't do much. Now that I'm down in CA, the temp. gauge will rise up near 1/2way after driving from no warm up, then shoot down to 1/4 hot after the thermostat opens, and barely ever reach 1/2 way again, even after pushing hard up mountains.
Now, I've read that the EGR and other emissions don't even start working until the engine gets to a certain temp. Is it possible that the engine isn't getting hot enoungh to pass the Smog? Should I replace with a diff. temp. themostat, or adjust the water/antifreeze ratio to raise the normal operating temp? I'm pretty sure the catalytic is original too. I saw on some other posts to check the fuel pressure regulator or the FI, but haven't yet.
To make things more complicated, a mechanic in AK told me that my computer might be going bad. He said something like my Check Engine light should flash a few times after startup, and mine just illuminates once and goes away. The only time I've seen the light after startup is after losing an alternator belt, so I know the light at least functions for that. Is OBD so basic, that some emissions failures don't trigger codes? Wouldn't at least a bad O2 sensor trigger the light?
I also read in Haynes that the EVAP canister has a replacable filter on the bottom. I took it off and found a "4wd hub lockout" type of dial on the bottom, but it wouldn't ****ing budge, and actually kind of looked sealed and seamless, so I was afraid to bust it with my huge guns. lol
She does burn a little oil, no more than any other American truck over 150K. I put Platinum plugs in last winter. Would fresh plugs help.

Please help with any advice. Again, paid $1500, don't expect more than 12 more months from her, and hope to not spend any incredible amount nickle and diming this Smog deal.

Mike

 

help

 

I'd say you need a good cat. But you could try heating it up more, but I never had that problem when I had the emissions on my 318, also remember california emissions laws are way more restrictive that ant other state. So a new cat should help, good luck.

 

Take a deep breath and get the truck back to stock.

1. Replace the thermostat with a OEM 192/195* rating if you havnt already.

2. Coolant mixture should be 50/50.

3.Forget the computer for now, it sounds ok.

4. RunSeafoam thru the engine and/or gas tank to clear some crud out of it. Can get a NAPA and other stores. www.seafoamsales.com

5. The white smoke may indicate a blown head gasket. Are you using coolant, have you done a compression test or leak down test of each cylinder?

6. Since it's a 91 you should still have TBI fuel injection with only 2 injectors inside the throttle body.

7. Get the cap and rotor replaced and the O2 sensor replaced. You may want to get a special socket for the O2 sensor to remove it or have it replaced by a pro. Soak it for several days with something like PB Blaster but once you get it out, clean the hole spotless as any penetrating oil will wreck the new sensor and special grease on it. You need that sensor when the engine warms up so that the computer can adjust air/fuel mixture.

8. Asides from a complete tuneup, you must replace the air filter and change the motor oil and filter right before your emissions test.

Find out whats causing the white smoke before you go any further.

Have you pulled error codes of the computer yet?

Displaying & Reading Trouble Codes
Accessing Codes

With Check Engine Lamp

To start the function, cycle ignition switch ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON within 5 seconds and any stored fault code will appear. Check engine lamp will display the code by flashing on and off. There is a short pause between flashes and a longer pause between digits. All codes displayed are 2 digit numbers with a 4 second pause between codes. The lamp will flash until all codes are displayed then 55 (end test) will appear.