I just got over this huge problem I was Having.
I could NOT get my 87 W150 4x4 to charge the battery.
Read This::: THIS MIGHT HELP SOMEONE ELSE.
It mad me so agrivated i have to post it help someone else. lol

I replaced the ALT. I replaced the BATT. I replaced the Voltage Reg.
CLEANED MY CONNECTIONS. CHANGED THE V-BELTS. NOOO CHARRGE!!!
WOOOW

RUN NEW PIGGY BACK WIRE FROM ALT, to BATT. Make sure you have NICE ground from BATT to engine head AND one for the body. RUN An Extra to the from from the engine head.
Make sure ALT has a Ground Wire. Remount a NEW (External) Voltage Reg. ON A METAL SURFACE and give it a Ground wire also. Run it to the body somewhere nice. ALSO SPLICE into the POSITIVE FIELD WIRE (the middle one) on the VR's plug. Run another wire from that splice to the ignition.

YES THIS SOUNDS JUST LIKE A CHEVY.... SORRY BUT IF FREAKIN WORKS. lolol ((((( Please No Disrespect! ))))

But im Charging at 15.2 in 25 degree weather. Just Right.

GROUND ALL THE TIME.. MUCH AS YOU CAN.
IN SOME CASES. THE MORE YOUR ELECTRICAL IS GROUNDED w/ SOME EXTRA IN PLACES TO THE FRAME. YOU WILL GAIN a small AMOUNTS OF HORSE POWER.

Please Let Me Know IF this helps someone

 

O Yea If you CANT find a Good Spot to run your spliced wire to the Ignition really fast. USE an empty accessory spot on your fuse box. WITH A KILL SWITCH!!! Turn on when running, Turn off when not. You might want to put a balace resistor somewhere in the 12v lead to the regulator though.

I KNOW it sounds redneck but I Am. IT WORKS THOUGH.


THANKYOU FOR VIEWING

 

It sounds like you could have avoided all the expense had you just used an ohm meter to check continuity between your alternator B+ and the battery and between ground at the battery and the alternator case. My guess is the original problem was indeed a bad ground all along, or a fuseable link in the charge wire that runs between your alternator and battery.

Regarding your statement that optimizing the ground connection to the charging system somehow "increases horsepower", care to explain how that would work?

 

It very well could have been the problem. I cleaned all them up and it just wouldnt charge. I did away with the fuseable link. Dont know if thats gonna bite me in the end or not. I had alot of good parts extra for the truck so it didnt really cost a whole lot to do.
Doing things the hard way. Always. lol

Anyhow the HP and grounding thing.
My buddy and I were tinkering around with his pickup.
We had this wild idea to add a few more grounds to the frame
from the motor and body. And for some reason it was more responsive.
We did the same thing with a 79 Ford F250 and the same thing happened.

I dont know maybe a fluke???

 

I suppose if your battery voltage was low because of the charging system not working well, the performance would be somewhat diminished by lower spark voltage or if fuel injected, decreased injector operation. Somehow I doubt it would be anything you would notice. Maybe your headlights would be brighter and thus it seems faster? I don't know...

It seems to me that actually disconnecting your alternator would increase performance or 'horse power'. An alternator under a heavy load either trying to run a bunch of accessories or charge a low battery uses about 15-20 horsepower to turn it. That's why a lot of drag racers don't bother with alternators to squeeze the most power in the quarter mile.

 

I understand what your expaining. Good Point.
The only difference is. There are not alot of accessories being ran
in them two trucks we experienced this with. The are carb trucks to. not injection.
After looking back at it. The pulleys on both trucks for the alternators were very small pulleys. Not a stanard or stock pulley. Uping the ampers alittle more.
WE were more than likely running a hotter spark by having smaller pulleys
and more grounding. One is a street truck and one is just for mud.