1st Gen Durango 1998 - 2003 Durango's

5.2 Radiator differences

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 10-09-2017, 10:06 AM
tomski74's Avatar
tomski74
tomski74 is offline
Amateur
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Skiatook, OK
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default 5.2 Radiator differences

Hello,
I need to replace a radiator on my '98 Durango 5,2. I found one on Amazon with great reviews and good price, but it says without aux transmission cooler.

So, here's a question:

Are the radiators actually different? Can I use my cooler on this radiator or do I need a specific radiator for the model with aux transmission cooler.

And one more question. One of the lines coming out of the transmission to the cooler got pinched. Don't know how bad the flow is. Instead of trying to replace the whole line, can I splice it with a high pressure hose? I see aftermarket transmission coolers out there that come with a kit to cut into transmission line,

Thanks in advance!
 
  #2  
Old 10-09-2017, 01:21 PM
Pspklutch's Avatar
Pspklutch
Pspklutch is offline
Veteran
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 428
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

You can use transmission fluid hose but I would find someone with the tool to flare out the end of the aluminum tubing for you. Just clamping the hose onto the end of straight aluminum tubing will cost you a lot of time and money and possible transmission problems. I know first hand. After trying over and over to remedy someone else’s fix (previous to me owning the truck, they cut the lines and replaced the factory aux cooler with an aftermarket) I dealt with it blowing trans fluid down the highway 3 different times due to hoses blowing off lines. I finally got all new lines from the transmission to the radiator and aux cooler up front and got a factory cooler out of the salvage yard. Aside from one small leak at a push in fitting o ring, it’s been perfect ever since. Your best bet is to just get a radiator with the trans cooler built in and not deal with the headache. And replace that pinched line.
 
  #3  
Old 10-23-2017, 12:52 PM
tomski74's Avatar
tomski74
tomski74 is offline
Amateur
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Skiatook, OK
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Update:
I bought the radiator without the trans cooler and re-used my cooler. $70 on Amazon.
I then got 2 ft (more than enough) of high pressure hose 3/8". I cut the steel lines with a tubing cutter, flared the ends and used double hose clamps on each end.
So far I have only put the truck in D and R in my garage and the hose fix holds fine. The radiator connector was leaking a bit, but it just needed an extra turn to take care of it.

Thanks for your help.
 
  #4  
Old 10-23-2017, 01:02 PM
Pspklutch's Avatar
Pspklutch
Pspklutch is offline
Veteran
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 428
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by tomski74
Update:
I bought the radiator without the trans cooler and re-used my cooler. $70 on Amazon.
I then got 2 ft (more than enough) of high pressure hose 3/8". I cut the steel lines with a tubing cutter, flared the ends and used double hose clamps on each end.
So far I have only put the truck in D and R in my garage and the hose fix holds fine. The radiator connector was leaking a bit, but it just needed an extra turn to take care of it.

Thanks for your help.
Looks awesome. I wish they would use flared ends with clamps more from the factory. Sure seems like a better way to do things. Less problematic. Just over the past weekend I cut the push fitting off of my leaking hose and just put the hose up over the lip of the line going into the radiator and clamped it. It’s not going anywhere and doesn’t leak anymore. Just out of curiosity, the one you replaced, was it the line with the check valve in it?
 
  #5  
Old 10-23-2017, 03:40 PM
tomski74's Avatar
tomski74
tomski74 is offline
Amateur
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Skiatook, OK
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I honestly don't know. There was no valve between the "fix" and the radiator.
I'm new to the Durango. I have an 2002 Ram 1500 with 235K miles that I've had since new. I know a lot more about that truck.
Waaaay easier to work on. This one here is a pain. You have to tale apart half the sheet metal to get anything done.
I started a new thread with the build of my "Junkyard Dodge"
I'll try to update it as I go.
 
  #6  
Old 10-24-2017, 07:41 AM
Pspklutch's Avatar
Pspklutch
Pspklutch is offline
Veteran
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 428
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

The line with the threaded connector has the one way ball valve inside the threaded connector. Two big nuts that thread together is what it looks like and there’s a ball valve inside it. I’m not sure how important it is but something to think about
 
  #7  
Old 10-24-2017, 08:07 PM
that_guy's Avatar
that_guy
that_guy is offline
Champion
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Pittsburgh, PA or Columbia, SC
Posts: 4,098
Received 44 Likes on 43 Posts
Default

I've heard of people removing it before. You just need to stop in neutral for a couple seconds to let pressure build before going into gear and trying to drive off.
 




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 11:31 PM.