The BULBS are located behind the gauge cluster. Yes you do have to remove stuff to get to it. First the panel below the steering column, then wood bezel, then you can unscrew the Gauge cluster. Behind the Cluster you will need to remove 2 round wire connectors. It can be a tight space for the hand. Getting them back on is the challenge. Just be thankful you don't have a pre 94 where they have the cable driven speedometers. The bulb holder just twist off, then pull out the bulb.
For color you can buy some rubber slips to go over the bulbs. Or you can spray paint the bulbs, high heat paint will help with them fading due to heat. But the color is giving by a dark sheet under the gauge face. You can remove it and paint it, or get some transparent paper with the color you want and cut it to fit.