Has anyone got any info on replacing the oil pump drive gear and bushing on a 1992 3.9L V6? I have technical service bulletin TSB 18-08-93 Rev. A. What are Dodge tools C-3052 and C-3053? Can they be made, or can be standard tools be used? Can this job be done without pulling the intake manifold? Any experience would be appreciated.

 

You could pull the distributor and remove the pump drive by turning it with a long flat screwdriver. If you turn it the right way the helico cut gear will jack it out .You can then pull out the bushing with a slide hammer. Or drop the pan and pump . Then drive it out with a long shaft . Why do you want to replace the bushing ?

 

The advice that I have gotten is from a Chrysler dealer mechanic who said that they had a lot of trouble with the bushing in this model truck. He said that the bushing was prone to wear out and that Ishould check it for side play. The motor has 108k miles on it. In order to pull the bushing with a slide hammer, do you use a hook and reach through the bearing? I looked at a picture of a tool offered for this job and it appeared to be threaded. I assumed that the first step would be to tap the bushing, then use the tool to "jack" the bushing out. According to my source, you have to ream the bushing after it is in place. I can have a piloted punch made to set the bushing without distorting it. If is has the correct I.D. to begin with, then it should be correct after installation. The distributor is really hard to assess. I have wondered if there is enough clearance to use a slide hammer. Obviously, this is something that would be much easier to doif the motor was out of the truck. I could probably drop it a couple of inches if necessary. None of the parts houses I called could get the parts. I called two Chrysler dealers and they had to check to see if they could get them. I hope to hear from them today. Thanks for the info on removing the gear.

 

May be the newer ones are not as good as the old one .Or the ingnition pattern of the 6 put a beating on it .The only ones I have replaced are for every rebuild .Any place that does engine machine work will have one .Becuase they have to take them out to hot tank the block .But unless you are having an ignition problem or other problem I would leave it be.

 

I won't mess with the bushing unless it needs it. About six months after I bought the truck, it started running rough, shifting hard and backfiring. I replaced the spark plugs, wires, dist. cap and rotor button and added Bars to the tran. I noticed then that the rotor had a lot of free play. The muffler was toast and the cat. conv. was rattling so I had them replaced. The error code indicated the engine temp. sensor was bad and I found that the timing chain had a lot of slack, so I replaced them. Next, I carried the throttle position sensor to AutoZone and they said it was bad, so I replaced it. I read that fuel injector seals could leak and cause these problems, so I replaced them. Everything that I have done has helped the truck to run better, but nothing has touched the basic problem. Now I have a smooth shifting, quiet truck that runs rough and backfires a lot. I carried it to a shop for them to check it out. They said that all of the sensors were working fine and that I needed to get that drive gear replaced and then have the distributor indexed. The funny part is that each time I do something to it, it runs great for about 20 minutes, then things start getting worse. I pulled the spark plugs last week and they were wet and had a lot of carbon build up on them. They're only 3 months old. I understand that the fuel injectors are fired from the camshaft sensor which is in the distributor. Badly timed fuel injection could be the problem. I guess I'll know when I get through replacing the gear. Maybe that will happen Saturday.

 

Have you checked the manifold ,by looking down through the throttlebody with a flashlight. If you see oil, you have found your problem.

 

Where would the oil be coming from, through the valve stem seals? I got the gear and if weather permits I plan to replace it this weekend and I can look for the oil at the same time.I will check the bushing, and if it needs replacing, I'll do that on another weekend. Thanks.

 

The bushing is shot. It is a flanged or "hat" bushing, and the flange had broken off and spun. It came up with the gear. The new shaft measures 0.486" and a 1/2" bolt will pass freely through the bushing. My slide hammer barely fits in the space available and there is no stroke room, so if I can't pull the bushing with a bolt, I'll be dropping the oil pan. I thought about tapping it 14 mm or 9/16 and pulling it with a bolt and flange. The drawback to that is the shavings that would drop into the oil pan. However, that would be the same as using the Chrysler tool. I could coat the tap with grease. That would hold some of the chips.

I looked into the intake manifold for oil. It is coated with oily soot from the backfiring, but I didn't see any free standing oil. After seeing how bad off the bushing was, I just shut the hood. I'll wait until I can replace the bushing before installing the new gear.

 

The bushing is out! I tapped it 9/16 nc with a long shanked tap chuck. A 9/16" x 6" bolt or threaded rod was needed but no one had it so I welded the head of a 1/2x3 hex bolt to the head of a 9/16x3 hex bolt. Next, I drilled a 1/2" hole in a 2" pipe cap. I threaded the 9/16" end of the piggy back bolt that I had welded into the bushing. Using the pipe cap to cover the distributor hole, I stacked a few 1/2" flat washers on the 1/2" end of the bolt and tightened the nut. I had to stop and add some more flat washers once, but the bushing pulled out clean and easy. I have the new bushing, but it will be a few days before I have the installation tool, c-3053 by Chrysler. The new bushing O.D. is approx. 2.5 thou larger than the one that I removed, so the installation tool is usedwith a hammer to tapthe bushing in place. It is about 1 thou. too small to slide on the new shaft now, and it will close up some more when installed. Some mechanics have told me that I should ream it in place after it is installed. From what I have read, the Chryslertool burnishes it to the correct I.D. That is what I hope to do when I get the tool. I found the instructions for using the tool on one site and it stated that the bushing should be burnished and should not be reamed. more later

 

I bid on the bushing tool on Ebay and got out-bidded. The lowest price that I had found for the tool was $125, so I bid $115. Somebody bid $117.50 and got it. I returned to the web and found one for $66.74. Thanks for outbidding me, whoever you are. If you need one of these tools, you can get it at Speedcraft Chrysler Dodge Volkswagen, Wakefield, RI, 401-789-6500. Should have it here in about four days.