The tool came and the deed is done. The truck runs better - but not good. Timing jumps plus or minus 5 degrees. Is this common? Time to regroup.

 

Thank youfor detailing the bushing replacement.

Looks like you have replaced a lot of likely problems sources.
Did you check/replace the Hall effect pickup assy inside the distributor?

Regards,
Greg

 

Checked it this morning. Indexed distributor and it made a big difference. For anyone facing this, the procedure is thus: Check for open circuit between terminals b & c (black and grey wires) which is good. Dist. is indexed by setting damper on V6 mark which is 147 degrees after TDC (or V8 mark which is about 17 degrees past TDC). One web site specified 14.7 degrees for the V6, but that was a typo as I found out the hard way. Next step is to loosen dist. hold down, then dig out grey rubber insulator from electrical connector on wires coming from dist and place ground probe from analog volt meter into center hole (black wire) and pos. probe into hole with grey wire. Turn ign. sw. on, rotate dist slowly until meter jumps from zero to 5 VDC or vice versa. Fine tune to get it right on the transition point, then lock down dist. The dist. is so close to the firewall that it is easier to loosen and adjust if you remove the spark plug wires and dist cap. You will need a 1/2" dist wrench or a crows foot to loosen hole down bolt. Be sure to mark wires if you don't know where to reinstall them. Mine are grey and you can write 1-6 on them with a sharpie.

Motor has stopped backfiring. It idles much smoother and does not seem to be in as much of a strain at cruising speed on level ground. Driving along at 55 it drives pretty smooth. It still shudders when starting off and lacks power at low rpms. I kept the gas pedal constant while climbing a hill and at the top of the hillit slowed considerably and started shuddering. It shudders if you hold the brake and give it the gas while sitting still and in gear and also while backing slowly, even on level ground. It also won't downshift when you goose it. If you are driving along about 50 and manually downshift it into second and stomp the gas it takes off like a rocket. If you stomp on the gas from a standstill, it hardly responds but comes up to speen like an under-powered 4 cylinder.

I read somewhere that the PCM requires 200 miles of driving to retrain when changes like this are made. I have only driven it about 40, so maybe it will improve with driving. I am kinda shaky here because normally speaking problems don't get better on their own and mechanical things don't have the ability to heal.

Obviously, I have more to do. At least I'm seeing some progress. Any suggestions are appreciated.

 

The ECM checks the amount of fuel that had to be added on top of the amount of fuel in the map every 15 key cycles .If you always pull a big boat and the ecm see that it has to constintly add 15% more fuel. After 15 cycles it will add 5% more fuel to the map. After another 15 cycles if it see it is still 10% lean it will add 5% more fuel to the map,and so on .So drive it lightly and let it build you a nice economic map

 

With consideration to the number and types of components recently changed, I decided that resetting the computer to what I assume are factory default values might be better than letting it continue to run based on the currupted parameters learned while operating with the faulty parts. After resetting it, the truck runs better. However, it stll has the shaking under load problem and won't downshift into passing gear. It reminds me the way an older model vehicle with a straight shift shakes when you try to start offor drive too slow in high gear. Resetting the ECM did not eliminate the error code 45, which for this vehicle refers to the overdrive solenoid. Since this vehicle does not have an overdrive transmission, obviously something else is crossed up. Perhaps in a couple of weeks, itwill get better. But for it to shake like that when freshly reset causes me to think that something else is not quite right.

I have read advice to replace the O2 sensor every 60,000 miles. I am leaning toward trying that next

By the way, the Chilton's book that I bought for this truck is of very little help. Where can one buy a book that will serve as a trouble shooting and help guide for these vehicles? I am getting more helpful information off of sites like this than any other source. I saw one manual advertised for $110. That is a lot to pay for a pig in a poke. It would be helpful to know that the book was for real before plopping down that much dough. Has anyone got any suggestions?

 

i had the same problem and replaced bushing, shaft, plugs, wires, distributer, cap, button, 02 censor, and finally blocked off egr valve with a peice of aluminum coke can and now it runs like a scalded dog

 

i had the same problem and changed drive gear, bushing, cap, rotor button, wires, plugs,distributer,02 censor, and finally i took a peice of coke can and blocked off the egr valve and now it runs like a scalded dog

 

Your exhaust will burn through the metal. I would recommend that you put a thicker piece on it, or use a piece of steel stock. But nice that you beat your dog

 

hey granpa49 - how did this end up working out? Can we get an update? I think I'm getting the same shaking you had - when I floor it, and when trying to downshift into the passing gear. I have a Overdrive Transmission. Did the computer eventually work itself out or was there another problem you found?