AC Compressor not cycling off at all
#21
ok exhuast backpressure would cause the truck to stall out before it caused anyother problems, as for overheating at idle check your e-fan, it should be on when the A/C is on, and when the engine temp gets over 210*, bad clutches are not common, but they are also not unheard of, you can check it by spinning it by hand, if it goes more than 1/2 a turn before stopping its not working correctly.
#22
Alright, so today, I evacuated the system and replaced a couple of the bolts in the expansion valve. (Lost them on original swap, and got some used ones at the salvage yard) I figured out that there was a leak there, due to makeshift bolts that I had used originally as replacements.
So no more leak. I currently have 200 on the high side and 45 on the low about 91 degrees outside maybe 95 was the high. AC is blowing cold, but the compressor still does not cycle off and the truck still starts to run hot if it idles too long. Talked to a guy at Firestone and he said that if its an idle only problem that it has to be airflow, (Considering I have replaced everything else) but the damn fan clutch is brand new too. It's a thermal fan clutch installed in June. I don't get it. I read somewhere else that exhaust back pressure can cause this problem too, does anyone else here know if that is true? I am pretty sure that the AC not cycling is adding to the problem, and maybe I am having an airflow problem, but do companies like 4seasons typically sell bad fan clutches off the assembly line?
So the question is....What next to test in the AC system to make sure that the compressor cycles and can a plugged exhaust system cause this too? (BTW I found out I had a coolant leak too, it was the bypass hose had a hole in the side of it but I fixed that so no more leaks anywhere, AC or coolant)
Thanks!!
John
So no more leak. I currently have 200 on the high side and 45 on the low about 91 degrees outside maybe 95 was the high. AC is blowing cold, but the compressor still does not cycle off and the truck still starts to run hot if it idles too long. Talked to a guy at Firestone and he said that if its an idle only problem that it has to be airflow, (Considering I have replaced everything else) but the damn fan clutch is brand new too. It's a thermal fan clutch installed in June. I don't get it. I read somewhere else that exhaust back pressure can cause this problem too, does anyone else here know if that is true? I am pretty sure that the AC not cycling is adding to the problem, and maybe I am having an airflow problem, but do companies like 4seasons typically sell bad fan clutches off the assembly line?
So the question is....What next to test in the AC system to make sure that the compressor cycles and can a plugged exhaust system cause this too? (BTW I found out I had a coolant leak too, it was the bypass hose had a hole in the side of it but I fixed that so no more leaks anywhere, AC or coolant)
Thanks!!
John
As for your issue, you still didn't say you replaced the high side switch?
#23
How can I test the switch? I know the jumper trick to bypass the switch but how do I tell if the switch is actually tripping the compressor relay on its own? Can I test it with a multimeter? and what should the readings be? I am guessing that the overheating problem is only being caused by the compressor constantly running because it doesn't have a problem in the world when its off lol. Also, if I leave the hood open today it actually held the correct temperature for 30 minutes but once I closed the hood within 5 minutes it was creeping back up to 210 again. I thought I fixed it until I closed it, with the whole coolant leak and freon leak fixed. BTW the fan clutch is good, once the engine is hot if you cut it off and try to spin the fan clutch it barely moves at all.
#24
ok exhuast backpressure would cause the truck to stall out before it caused anyother problems, as for overheating at idle check your e-fan, it should be on when the A/C is on, and when the engine temp gets over 210*, bad clutches are not common, but they are also not unheard of, you can check it by spinning it by hand, if it goes more than 1/2 a turn before stopping its not working correctly.
#25
Personally, I think the cooling system for the Durango is to small. If you look by comparison, the Ram radiator is larger "full sized" so the cooling is fine. Well they used the same motor with a smaller radiator and smaller intake circumference and guess what happens? It gets hot!
I fought this very problem for years when owning my Durango because it does NOT have the Electric Auxiliary Fan. Even in my V-10 I get hot with the A/C on when hot outside temps because I don't have one on it either. I have tried a clean radiator, 180 T-stat (which I recommend for your motor) and a few other things and had to come to term with that was the way it was.
For your fix, you could do 3 things:
1. Install a very thin in height electric fan with a temp controller as a pusher or;
2. Install a very thin in height electric fan with a temp controller as a puller and you will have to move the OEM fan back away from the radiator to give you room just like the 2000-2003 Durango's have.
3. Remove the clutch fan and go directly electric only like a car and some users have.
#26
My 2002 Durango (200,000 miles) just suddenly the ac compressor is knocking quite loud, It still cools but when turned to heat still have the compressor knocking. Anybody have any ideas? Everything was just fine and then knocking. As soon as it stops raining (here in Fl) I am hoking up my guage to ac system to get reading.
#27
My 2002 Durango (200,000 miles) just suddenly the ac compressor is knocking quite loud, It still cools but when turned to heat still have the compressor knocking. Anybody have any ideas? Everything was just fine and then knocking. As soon as it stops raining (here in Fl) I am hoking up my guage to ac system to get reading.
#28
I agree. I had a similar problem with a jaguar (really its a ford). The compressor was fine, it was actually the bearing in the clutch for me. Either way, sounds like you have a bearing going out, either in the compressor or the clutch.
#29
A/c
With the way the temperature has been in the South and also here in Missouri, most compressors will not cycle at all. Just like a house A/C Unit, in this heat they will run and not shut off. You will not do any harm to the compressor because it is running all the time. The compressor has oil in it that helps keep it lubricated. Most likely, you will see when the weather starts to get a little cooler, your compressor will cycle off and on as needed. The Durango's are big boxes on wheels and it takes forever to cool one down and I bet that you have had your fan on it's highest setting to try to cool it off. It is like supply and demand, you are demanding a lot of your system to cool down your vehicle and in doing so, it is trying to supply all the cooling power that it has to offer. There is nothing wrong with your system and yes your engine will get hotter when at idle because it is relying on the E-fans to cool it down and when it is doing that, it is also pushing all that hot air off of the condenser towards your radiator which in turn will not cool the radiator until you start to get more air flow when you drive it.
My A/C is blowing hot air. I have taken it to two shops who both say the compressor is kicking on and the coolant levels were all at the right spots. It is a 2005 dodge durango, by the way. When i start the durango, the compressor comes on and will not cycle off. I get that its like supply and demand and won't kick off until the interior temperature cools off, but thats just it. The a/c is blowing hot air only, no matter how long i let it run. When i rev the engine, it makes no difference in the air. Do you have any idea on what could be causing this?
#30