I've got a stock '02 3.9 5spd that I drive probably harder than I should (still longing for my long-gone BMW 2002 and Mazda RX-7 GSL/SE, I guess...), and it's definitely getting to be new clutch time at 167K miles. I do lots of LA freeway, but I'm currently working in San Francisco, whose hills haven't made life easier. Since I'm on the road for work, I'll have to have the work done at a local shop. I've tentatively found one who'll do it and said he'd install aftermarket stuff (Centerforce, etc) if I want to supply the parts.

My question is: should I? Seen positive reviews here from folks who've upgraded with Centerforce, but mostly in otherwise modified trucks. Is there anything to be gained with use of a dual friction clutch (such as CF's DF066178) versus their "standard" CF178066 versus whatever the basic clutch is that the shop would otherwise install in my stock but hard-driven ride?

Since I'm having this work done (and my company will help pay the bill...), what other work/parts should I have inspected/plan on replacing while trans is out? Pilot bearing? Trans mount? Slave cylinder? And what size/spline count would this clutch be for my 3.9?

Thanks in advance for any input....

 

Definitely replace the pilot and release bearings. If it's the original slave cylinder then I'd replace it at the same time.

The slave cylinder and transmission mount can be replaced without pulling the transmission if needed later.

As to "upgrade" or not, how do you like your current clutch? On my '00 I went OEM - as in direct from Dodge. I've had, on other vehicles, problems with replacements chattering, etc.

Just as a note, if you stick with OEM style replacements the flywheel should not be turned. It isn't flat but has a specific contour to it.

It should be 10 splines and 10.4" diameter OEM.

 

Thanks, Dan, for the input. I actually thought the stock clutch was decent in terms of pressure required, tho it does get a bit heavy in rush hour traffic. In fairness, the clutch was pretty worn when I bought the truck last Dec and has, of course, been getting more and more worn. Biggest problem isn't it slipping so much as it's point of engagement is so high that I feel my left knee will go thru the back window.

I presume that I've got the original clutch from the factory, but hard to know (previous owner had for short time only) for sure. How will I know if the flywheel has or hasn't been surfaced before? Is it standard procedure to replace the flywheel then when replacing with factory Dodge unit if flywheel is scored?

Assuming that this is original engine (near 170K, prob not been apart), should rear main seal be replaced too? Or only if flywheel is off for resurface/replacement?

Thanks again.

 

You really don't know if it has been resurfaced. This is what the manual says:

Flywheel machining is not recommended. The flywheel clutch surface is machined to a unique contour and machining will negate this feature. However, minor flywheel scoring can be cleaned up by hand with 180 grit emery, or with surface grinding equipment. Remove only enough material to reduce scoring (approximately 0.001 - 0.003 in.). Heavy stock removal is not recommended. Replace the flywheel if scoring is severe and deeper than 0.076 mm (0.003 in.). Excessive stock removal can result in flywheel cracking or warpage after installation; it can also weaken the flywheel and interfere with proper clutch release.

I can understand why you'd want to replace the rear seal but I wouldn't unless it is already leaking. It may/may never leak. You have to drop the oil pan to do that.

Basically some things are better left alone, if you know what I mean. Otherwise you'd end up replacing everything on the truck...

 

Lots of city driving with stop and go can become a pain with a manual trans I would stick with OEM. I remember at times my leg and foot getting a workout with my manual trans especially going home on the freeway with bumper to bumper traffic at 10 mph creeping along clutch brake clutch brake clutch brake clutch what a pain. My next car/truck will be an auto to be sure.

 

RE rear seal: Doh... forgot about the oil pan there. Been some time since I've torn a motor down... Will check my local dealer for the Dodge parts (and cross my fingers that the flywheel is good enough).

And this is the first manual I've had since giving up my RX-7 almost a decade ago. I actually enjoy the exercise sometimes; plus, might be somewhat less likely to be boosted by some kid who never learned to drive stick...

Thanks again, guys.