Hub Nut Size?
#52
01-22-2011, 06:58 PM
I'll say that I've been using PB for about 12 years and works great, BUT I always used heat with it. a little oxy acetylene and PB does wonders for anything. Or PB straight on a 400* extruder to un sieze bolts. Since I don't work on extruders anymore I've moved on to different stuff for penetrant thanks mostly to Z-man and Sherriff converting me.
Aero kroil I used alot over 20 years as a industrial mechanic and is great but reeeeeeeeks.
Knocker loose seems ok, better than PB.
Deep creep is about $14 a can and doesn't seem to do much better.
CRC freeze off is my new favorite, The freeze thing is BS (dropping the temp 3* is not enough for thermal shock) But the penetrant is very thin which creeps and dissolves rust very well.
Just my 2 cents.
for your hub nut you can take it to a shop and have them break it free then retighten it. It's not so much the torque thats holding it on, it's the rust.
Aero kroil I used alot over 20 years as a industrial mechanic and is great but reeeeeeeeks.
Knocker loose seems ok, better than PB.
Deep creep is about $14 a can and doesn't seem to do much better.
CRC freeze off is my new favorite, The freeze thing is BS (dropping the temp 3* is not enough for thermal shock) But the penetrant is very thin which creeps and dissolves rust very well.
Just my 2 cents.
for your hub nut you can take it to a shop and have them break it free then retighten it. It's not so much the torque thats holding it on, it's the rust.
#53
01-22-2011, 08:16 PM
Captain
#54
01-23-2011, 09:34 AM
#55
01-26-2011, 11:10 AM
Ok. After liberal use of BP Blaster, and the investment of a 6' pipe. I got the hub nut off. I used a ball-joint press (it says it is a u-joint press as well) to get the u-joint out. Problem was, that there was very little room in the press for the u-joint cap to go through, so it took a lot of tries. Then after getting one cap removed, slipping the u-joint out of the yoke was frustrating. The remaining cap was about 1mm too tall to slip cleanly, and therefore took a lot of persuasion. Got everything back together and the grinding noise when I turn is gone.
Now on to the driveshaft u-joint.
Thanks, guys, for all your advice. I couldn't have done it without you all.
Now on to the driveshaft u-joint.
Thanks, guys, for all your advice. I couldn't have done it without you all.
#56
05-02-2016, 01:02 AM
For anyone still looking for the 1 11/16" Impact socket Home Depot has them for $11.99 but online ordering is required and ship to store or your home.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Alltrade-...dded/204505270
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Alltrade-...dded/204505270
#58
11-04-2016, 09:10 PM
#59
08-06-2017, 07:25 PM
Just don't...
Things I learned removing the front right hub and axle shaft to replace the u-joint.
1 - Axle Nut: Don't even. I wasted a day, two breaker bars, a can of PB blaster, and half a bottle of propane on this. Call around to tire and service shops. They have the right tools and can do it in seconds. Didn't cost a thing. If you don't want to swallow your pride, give your girlfriend or wife a list of questions and details about what you're working with. Have them put anti-seize on it and tighten it again. It will come off like nothing when you get home. If you must DIY this, 1/2 drive isn't going to cut it.
2- Hub Assembly. My hub came out with zero effort one the axle nut and the 3 bolts came out. Easy.
3- Axle Shaft. Also came out easily. Pull it out as straight and supported as you can so you don't drag the splines through the crud in the tube. Ditto for installing.
4 - U-Joint. Hammer method all the way. There are lots of videos out there. You don't have to swing hard. I used a ball joint press to install the new one. This takes some patience. Lack of patience and a plan will have you chasing loose needle bearings. Have a sit down with a cold beer before AND after this if you're not a u-joint pro.
5 - Installation. I was shocked how easy this went back together. Remember to clean out and debris that has gotten on the axle splines and support it as much as you can to keep the splines from dragging debris into the differential. The hub just bolts right up. Its handy to have someone turn the wheels back and forth for you so you can access all 3 bolts and progressively tighten them. Don't forget to use anti-seize on the 3 bolts and big axle but. You won't forget this step if you removed that but yourself. Check your torque specs. This is important for bearing life. If the 175-180 lb-ft is at the end of your torque Wrench's range, you need a bigger torque wrench. They are most accurate at the center of their range.
2001 RAM 1500 4x4 Details:
Axle Nut Size - 1-11/16 or 43mm. Right-hand threaded
Hub Bolts - 14mm 12-point
Disc Brake Bracket - 21mm
Caliper Pins - Allen head, to lazy to confirm size.
1 - Axle Nut: Don't even. I wasted a day, two breaker bars, a can of PB blaster, and half a bottle of propane on this. Call around to tire and service shops. They have the right tools and can do it in seconds. Didn't cost a thing. If you don't want to swallow your pride, give your girlfriend or wife a list of questions and details about what you're working with. Have them put anti-seize on it and tighten it again. It will come off like nothing when you get home. If you must DIY this, 1/2 drive isn't going to cut it.
2- Hub Assembly. My hub came out with zero effort one the axle nut and the 3 bolts came out. Easy.
3- Axle Shaft. Also came out easily. Pull it out as straight and supported as you can so you don't drag the splines through the crud in the tube. Ditto for installing.
4 - U-Joint. Hammer method all the way. There are lots of videos out there. You don't have to swing hard. I used a ball joint press to install the new one. This takes some patience. Lack of patience and a plan will have you chasing loose needle bearings. Have a sit down with a cold beer before AND after this if you're not a u-joint pro.
5 - Installation. I was shocked how easy this went back together. Remember to clean out and debris that has gotten on the axle splines and support it as much as you can to keep the splines from dragging debris into the differential. The hub just bolts right up. Its handy to have someone turn the wheels back and forth for you so you can access all 3 bolts and progressively tighten them. Don't forget to use anti-seize on the 3 bolts and big axle but. You won't forget this step if you removed that but yourself. Check your torque specs. This is important for bearing life. If the 175-180 lb-ft is at the end of your torque Wrench's range, you need a bigger torque wrench. They are most accurate at the center of their range.
2001 RAM 1500 4x4 Details:
Axle Nut Size - 1-11/16 or 43mm. Right-hand threaded
Hub Bolts - 14mm 12-point
Disc Brake Bracket - 21mm
Caliper Pins - Allen head, to lazy to confirm size.