Pitman arm to swaybar is very close like a 1/16th if that, I used the swaybar spacers in mine but I am not 5" lift, all you can do is try them and see what you get. Also bolt up the sway bracket as is almost tight, then tap the swaybar bracket to frame back away from the pitman arm, then tighten them down and see what you get for clearance. Not much is needed.

For now center the lower control arm in the lower diff bracket using the cam bolts that should get you close.

Edit: Hey is there weight on the diff yet, or is it hanging there way low.

 

The front axle is on jack stands, and the front of the truck (at the frame) is also on jack stands.

 

Random exhaust question as it came up while I was at the shop paying for the ring and pinions today...

The guys in the shop said there are NO reputable exhaust shops locally. A lot of complaints have come in over the past while, and the shop I am doing ONLY do bolt in sets.

I know there are a LOT of exhaust topics on here, but most are about gutting the cat and **** - not an option. Clearly a true dual isn't really an option for me either, as no shop can do it and neither can I.

Does magnaflow make a decent system for our trucks? I'll likely be ordering a whole stainless steel bolt in kit, preferably with a high flow cat. The guy at the shop showed me ONE kit, but it was 699 and the cat was 289 ontop of that - plus 4 weeks of shipping. Not keen on that. Just curious if anyone has ordered one / had success with it?

Edit: This is the kit the guy recommended: (said it would take 4 weeks to get it... yet... I can get it from Amazon by Thursday)

And the cat: (and I can get it faster AND cheaper on Amazon)

 

No exhaust shops that bend pipe in your area? Wow. Ok, let me tack "reputable" on to that.... I know that thins the herd in a big way.

The galvanized, or aluminized pipe will last many years, and is significantly cheaper. When I was doing exhaust, we would do true duals, for around 200 bucks.... if you wanted cats, that would add another 150.00. Guess we were cheap huh?

The shop is closed now, but, Ray still does exhaust on the side.

 

There is a Midas shop, but a number of people have had bad experiences. Unfortunately, Fredericton is NOT a big city. I found an exhaust shop an hour and a half away in Moncton - I'll be calling tomorrow.

Trust me, HeyYou, it's not the easiest to track things down here ;o) I miss Vancouver... a lot...

 

Threw new calipers and pads on. The rotors in the picture are the old ones - the new ones will go on at the shop when they do the hub conversion. The tires will roll less than 10 full revolutions before the new ones are on, so no fretting there.

Tossed on the old tires on and lowered it - I'll let the shop put the new ones on after doing the regearing, hub conversion, and alignment. I'm not mechanic, but the alignment might be a bit off ;o)

 

Did you do the 3/4 ton Light Duty caliper upgrade?

 

I didn't think I did; however, you're the second person to mention this based on pictures alone.

 

The 3/4 ton calipers have a slightly larger piston. You get more breaking action for the same pedal effort. With those tires, I would want every advantage I could get.

Have to make sure you get the LD ones though, otherwise, they are dual piston, and won't fit.

 

You sir, need an alignment! Pronto!

You could do a rough alignment yourself just so you don't destroy anything. Just google/YouTube it's pretty neat and involves cookie sheets!!