4 hole fuel injector comparison video
#11
Don't know where heyou reads this stuff at(cause we all know its not from working on his truck)b/c it is incorrect. V8 fuel injectors fire at 17.5 degrees AFTER top dead center (v8 mark on damper/FSM sync set)with the fuel sync at 0. the cam starts to open the intake valve 7-13 degrees BEFORE top center(5.9 pending year)thus the valve is near full open @ 17.5 ATDC. Near full open allows the intake charge to ram the mix into the chamber at a higher RPM. The reason for the stock injectors is at low RPM the intake velocity is low thus the pencil stream shoots/forces the un-atomized fuel into the chamber. With the magnum head design this is not very efficient way to introduce the fuel. What design are the mag heads? Any thoughts or ideas.
#13
#14
I could swap in new after the install as I have 3 sets of stock injectors and a set of new seals , but , I don't want to work on it once it's in .
I do like hearing the smoother idle , that alone tells me it's more efficient . I know the jeep guys love 'em . I just never bothered to try before . I don't see any negative getting them , if anything , knowing they are flow matched will certainly be appreciated by the engine . Your smooth idle is probably 1 result of the flow matching .
#15
How about putting the injectors in after the main hardware you listed? Simpler swap out in comparison and you'd have an idea of the change on the build (for that baseline) on injectors.
As an M1 user for the last 3 years(?) I can attribute smoother idle with it and my stock injectors. No way can I say that would be akin to your setup.
What is your air intake setup?
Is this engine going to be a street killer, mixed use, hauler, tow rig?
As for mist vs. flash boil...the mist will always be more efficient due to available surface area. The flash boil is only as efficient as how much liquid contacts the valve or hot surface. The fluid behind the initial contact does not benefit from that as the temp drop occurs.
Anyone have pictures of that valve surface after 150K miles by chance?
As an M1 user for the last 3 years(?) I can attribute smoother idle with it and my stock injectors. No way can I say that would be akin to your setup.
What is your air intake setup?
Is this engine going to be a street killer, mixed use, hauler, tow rig?
As for mist vs. flash boil...the mist will always be more efficient due to available surface area. The flash boil is only as efficient as how much liquid contacts the valve or hot surface. The fluid behind the initial contact does not benefit from that as the temp drop occurs.
Anyone have pictures of that valve surface after 150K miles by chance?
#16
#17
It won't. But, the valves will warm up fairly quickly. this is probably taken into account by the PCM...... what it does about it, I don't know. (probably sprays more gas, so that simple evaporation will give an explosive mixture....)
#18
The CAI was well before anything else, and the headers & exhaust was the last thing.
Next round will be heads, H&S RR, valve springs, and a cam.
#19
How about putting the injectors in after the main hardware you listed? Simpler swap out in comparison and you'd have an idea of the change on the build (for that baseline) on injectors.
As an M1 user for the last 3 years(?) I can attribute smoother idle with it and my stock injectors. No way can I say that would be akin to your setup.
What is your air intake setup?
Is this engine going to be a street killer, mixed use, hauler, tow rig?
As an M1 user for the last 3 years(?) I can attribute smoother idle with it and my stock injectors. No way can I say that would be akin to your setup.
What is your air intake setup?
Is this engine going to be a street killer, mixed use, hauler, tow rig?
Air intake hasn't been decided just yet .
Sleeper , but , I live on the hwy with lots of traffic and a 70mph posted . 0-60 is important .Also , with hills , I'm getting tired of dropping a gear in the 5.2 to keep speed . 35 mile commute to the city . If a city dweller , I wouldn't even bother to swap . After all , this 5.2/truck doesn't have 50K . It'll make a great spare engine .
Thanks for the PM
Spilliage
Next round will be heads, H&S RR, valve springs, and a cam.
#20
Intake valve doesn't even start to open until 13 (or 7, depending on year) degrees BTDC. Reference. I can't find anything on injector timing (with a cursory search) could you site a reference for your numbers?