If you look hard enough you'll probably be able to find someone who'll do that for you economically enough.

That happens. There's not enough information available to us mortals that we might grok the PCM magick.

Ya might want to just keep in mind that the first and last tool ever to touch the truck must be the one that disconnects and later reconnects the battery. That saves you from both a PCM that's lost touch with reality and the unpleasant electrical consequences of momentary lapses of caution.

 

After driving for a bit today, it did go back to acting up. Been looking at the governor solenoid and pressure sensor. I will most likely be replacing these because most articles and threads I have read of people having the exact same issue, had replaced these parts and it fixed the issue. Seeing as there wasn't an excessive amount of clutch material on the pan magnet, I am going to assume the clutches are still in working shape. While I'm in there I might adjust the bands. I hear conflicting opinions on whether or not someone should do this because of accounts of success and failure.

 

Coupla things:

Correctly adjusting the bands in an undamaged automatic transmission is always, always, always a good thing. Really. Always. Keeping that clearance within spec is the only way to get the design lifetime out of the bands.

Transmission oil has solvent in it that carries the junk that accumulates inside transmissions safely away to be trapped inside the filter, but just like the stuff in the parts washer the solvent eventually gets spent and doesn't do that any more. There's also a smidgen of detergent in there to keep water in suspension until things heat up enough to evaporate the water out, and the detergent eventually loses its poop, too. That's why we change the oil periodically -- we want fresh oil in there that will do that job, and we want to remove the crap in the filter and the pan that the old out brought safely away from the places where it would have done damage.

So now we know why we don't defer maintenance. To wit:

If a band breaks "because it was adjusted", the lining was already long gone and the metal worn so thin that just applying the normal force the thing must experience in the course of just doing its job compromises it. It's not that final adjustment that ruined it, it was all those adjustments that were never done that did it. Or, if you've been doing your maintenance properly all along, you don't blame the adjustment because you've got a lot more miles out of the thing than most guys do, because most guys either don't do their maintenance at all or do it so sporadically that they never get full design lifetime.

If "changing the oil can break the transmission", the transmission is already broken. Changing the oil just cleans away the dams made of sludge and varnish that were plugging the leaks that have been there for a long time already. If the thing weren't broken already those dams wouldn't have existed to be washed away. So again it's the oil changes that were never done that broke the thing, not the one that showed you it was broken. An automatic that has been properly maintained throughout its life is very, very unlikely to fail right after an oil change -- it hasn't got those sludge dams in it.

So just do your maintenance and ignore the mythology. Life's better that way.

 

Flushing a trans that is already marginal can push it over the edge..... Just doing a fluid/filter change shouldn't.

 

UPDATE: I added the trans cooler and this time was very careful on how much fluid was added. It is now at the correct level (just below the full mark) and everything seems fine. Could slightly overfilling have caused the shifting issue?

 

Anything is possible. But, if it's working good, love it.

 

For sure. Hey, thanks for all the time and info you guys share. Too bad moped guys aren't as helpful... I'd like to get this little puch maxi running but apparently it's a secret club and you need a password and a secret hand shake... yeah, shake...

 

I find it highly amusing that we can get a computer controlled, fuel injected, V-8 engine running in tip top form, but, single cylinder carbureted engines kick our ***.

 

It would be fine if I could find a factory replacement cylinder/piston/crank/con rod combo... Seems only thing available is upgrades and speed kits that cause you to change the WHOLE DANG THING. Carb, pipe, intake, reeds, it's a mess out in the shop. LOL