Don't forget to check for the availability of the outer cam washer and the standoff nut that are listed and sold separately. I couldn't get them in Canada, they couldn't find a PN for the washer and the nut they finally found for me was a galvanized lock nut with no standoff feature to it, so it wouldn't work. I needed to cut the bolts in such a manner as to save the integrity of the old cam washer and standoff nut. I got most of the nuts and washers off with a big impact wrench, but there were a couple I needed to cut off and clean up before re-use, but in the end, it all worked out well.

One thing to watch out for on re-assembly is the torque you need to apply to the cam bolt/nut - I ran across several threads where people mentioned they'd snapped the bolts trying to pull them to the specified torque. I pulled mine to about 130 ft lb or so and then took the truck in for an alignment immediately. I had marked the old bolts and the frame next to the bolt head with a center punch (paint pencil will work too) so that I could put the new bolts in the same position and found that the alignment was quite close when it was checked and set up.

If the bolts are seized, the bushings for those bolts are shot, so before cutting the bolt ends off to remove the LCA, ensure you have new bushings - the part numbers were screwed up here as well (there are 2 different bushings in the LCA and the dealership could only get 1, so in the end I was able to make a deal with the dealership to get new LCAs that came with all new bushings). The bushings are pressed in, so to remove them, you will need a shop press of as a minimum, a ball joint press/clamp. The ball joint tool may not remove the old bushing, but it will pull in the new one. Without a shop press, one method of bushing removal is to burn it out - lots if smoke and smell, just like burning a tire. You're left with the metal case still in the control arm after the bushing is burned out and this can be taken out by hammering it inwards with a cold chisel. Have a fire extinguisher handy if you decide on the burn method. A garage wouldn't charge you much to press out the old and press in the new, it should take them less than an hour.

 

Just spoke with Chrysler Customer Service. Bolt has a new PN#06508484AA. She says that is still on backorder. Nut and Washer are now available. I called my local Dealer and got all 3 on the order and confirmed with CCC on expedite when available. Will let everyone know what I find out.

 

Chrysler just confirmed that the Bolts should be at my local Dealership on 12/10! The Washer and Nut have already arrived. Will advise as soon as I have them.

 

I would also check on the bushings - if the bolts are seized, the bushings are shot. The metal sleeve inside will have adhered to the bolt and even if you are able to press it out, the sleeve will have spread out in diameter and will be sloppy, hold more moisture, and seize faster.

 

Bolts just arrived! New Bushings too. Planning install later today. After the Dealer called to let me know the Bolts arrived early, Chrysler customer service followed up with a call to let me know, LOL! Can't wait for the new struts. Exhaust and 2" level coming early next week.

 

You should have 2 larger and 1 smaller bushing for each side. Have you worked out a way to remove the old bushings and install the new? Once you're satisfied that you have all the correct parts, the easiest way might be to cut out the old bolts and take the control arm off and then take the arms and new bushings to a garage you know can press out the old and press in the new, or if you have a ball joint remover C-clamp tool with all the accessories (these are just a bunch of plates,tubes, and cups to put on whatever you're pressing to fit the work to the tool.), you can do the pressing yourself - if you do this, just be careful to use the right accessories so as not to destroy the bushing. A large vise is very helpful in holding the control arm when using the ball joint tool, and lubricate the bushing to slide into the control arm without binding.

On assembly, use anti-seize compound (I buy the copper colored anti-seize - it works on a much higher temp range than the aluminum colored paste - I use the same stuff around manifold bolts etc - anything that doesn't need thread locker) on the bolt shafts and smear a bunch into the bushing tube so the chance of rust and seizing in the future will be minimal.

 

An additional comment on using the ball joint removal tool. Check the accessories that come with it to make sure you have either a cup or tube that's large enough to allow the largest bushing to slip into as you're pressing from the other end. If you don't have this size tube or cup, you can use a piece of steel (probably about 1/4" thick) and a short piece of tube - the tube length needs to be long enough to receive the bushing. You can most likely pick up these things from any metal retailer that sells small amounts. If you get a piece of 1/4" x 4" flat stock cut to a 4" length, that should work for the backing plate & the same shop can cut you a very short piece of tube (pipe will also work, it's cheaper & strong enough for this). On the screw end (this will be the pressing end) have a plate that will fit over most of the bushing so that you spread the load to push it out straight, otherwise, the rubber will stretch and the screw can start to bury itself into the bushing without pushing it all out (it should have a metal casing so once you get it started, it should come out easily).

When using a screw clamp such as this ball joint remover, always use high pressure grease (and plenty of it) on the screw. Without it, the screw will bind and eventually you'll destroy it. Keep this in mind for coil spring compressors that use large screws to pull the spring together, these are much easier to destroy.

 

Everything worked out well, back on the Road nice and smooth! Wow, what a difference! Put on Goodyear Duratrac 265/75/16, no rubbing. Next week, exhaust, change Trans and diff fluids, and possibly 2" Level kit.

 

Made by Moog, kit # K100164. You might also have to add a couple of over-size nuts for spacers.