Noisy Alternator bearing(s)
#11
#12
Here is a review of a few large file transfer sites if anyone is interested. I noticed there is a ton of large file transfer sites out there. Some free, some pay. A google search wil produce a lot of choices.
http://creativebits.org/review/heavy...tions_reviewed
http://creativebits.org/review/heavy...tions_reviewed
#13
Regarding retrofitting the 160 amp alternator for the hemi engine. I just read an interesting article of which I'll post a couple of paragraphs. I think I will reconsider putting the 160 amp unit in my truck.
Note the bit about the high amp alternator:
Two options are available to handle a higher amp draw. One is to add a
dealer-installed 160-amp alternator. The 160-amp alternator is available on the
Ram 2500 series truck as a part of the Snow Plow Prep package. The difficulty of
retrofitting this factory alternator at the dealer level depends on the engine.
The high-amp alternator is a drop-in, bolt-on replacement on the Ram 1500 with
the 4.7L engine. However, putting this 160-amp alternator on a HEMI-powered Ram
1500 requires a change in drive belt, engine pulley and idler pulley, in
addition to the obvious harness and termination lead changes and the alternator
On the topic of power draw, the “heavy service” package includes a 700-amp
battery from the 2500/3500 models, replacing the 600-amp battery, which is
standard on the Ram 1500. The Ram we tested had the 750-amp battery, which comes
with the optional Trailer Tow Group.
I happen to have the tow package with the 750 amp battery. As I do more research I'm finding I probably have enough "juice" for my application. I sure don't want to get into an "involved" project that initially started out as just a noisy alternator bearing replacement
Note the bit about the high amp alternator:
Two options are available to handle a higher amp draw. One is to add a
dealer-installed 160-amp alternator. The 160-amp alternator is available on the
Ram 2500 series truck as a part of the Snow Plow Prep package. The difficulty of
retrofitting this factory alternator at the dealer level depends on the engine.
The high-amp alternator is a drop-in, bolt-on replacement on the Ram 1500 with
the 4.7L engine. However, putting this 160-amp alternator on a HEMI-powered Ram
1500 requires a change in drive belt, engine pulley and idler pulley, in
addition to the obvious harness and termination lead changes and the alternator
On the topic of power draw, the “heavy service” package includes a 700-amp
battery from the 2500/3500 models, replacing the 600-amp battery, which is
standard on the Ram 1500. The Ram we tested had the 750-amp battery, which comes
with the optional Trailer Tow Group.
I happen to have the tow package with the 750 amp battery. As I do more research I'm finding I probably have enough "juice" for my application. I sure don't want to get into an "involved" project that initially started out as just a noisy alternator bearing replacement
#14
UPDATE:
I took off the alternator today, (15min.) took it down to the repair shop and had new bearings put in it. It took about an hour for the repair shop to call me to come and get it. ($60.00) Popped the alternator back into the HEMI and everything worked well. I have to say it was a piece of cake. Probably one of the easiest repairs I've done. I'm glad the alternator had easy access as the alternator is a tight fit I used a pry bar to help remove it and a 3/8th ratchet with a short cheater bar to move the belt tensioner. I used a hammer and a brass drift to lightly tap it back into position to reinstall the mounting bolts. Thanks to all on Dodge Forum who participated in this thread.
I took off the alternator today, (15min.) took it down to the repair shop and had new bearings put in it. It took about an hour for the repair shop to call me to come and get it. ($60.00) Popped the alternator back into the HEMI and everything worked well. I have to say it was a piece of cake. Probably one of the easiest repairs I've done. I'm glad the alternator had easy access as the alternator is a tight fit I used a pry bar to help remove it and a 3/8th ratchet with a short cheater bar to move the belt tensioner. I used a hammer and a brass drift to lightly tap it back into position to reinstall the mounting bolts. Thanks to all on Dodge Forum who participated in this thread.
#15
bearings
I have changed the harmonic balancer a year ago, for the first time on Durango 98.
And Tensioner pulley, and Idler pulley.
And then recently there was a noise in alternator.
Changing bearings in Dominican Republic should be about 12 usd with friendly mechanic, plus the price of the bearing, few dollars.
My mechanic used the hose to check from where the sound is coming from. You put one side on the ear, and other close to pulley.
Anyway, we could not determine the noise until we took out the belt (gatorback) and manually moved all.
Very little tool is used and anybody should change pulley or belt.
I have changed the harmonic balancer a year ago, for the first time on Durango 98.
And Tensioner pulley, and Idler pulley.
And then recently there was a noise in alternator.
Changing bearings in Dominican Republic should be about 12 usd with friendly mechanic, plus the price of the bearing, few dollars.
My mechanic used the hose to check from where the sound is coming from. You put one side on the ear, and other close to pulley.
Anyway, we could not determine the noise until we took out the belt (gatorback) and manually moved all.
Very little tool is used and anybody should change pulley or belt.