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Crank sensor broke off inside, now what?

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  #11  
Old 11-09-2011, 10:05 PM
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And the many super people including jaydee240 who share their experiences I can save tons of money that would go to the dealer and spend it on my family. plus the smiles, giggles and pride I share with myself for accomplishing difficult as well as easy jobs on my truck makes it all the more better. I'm plain ole smitten right now.
 
  #12  
Old 04-28-2013, 10:53 PM
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Though the come along was over the top. Broke mine today after installing new injectors. Figured how hard could it be. Just 1 bolt and a disconnect clip.
I guess every day you learn something. I pulled out a dermal type tool and used a rotozip bit. It got a bit smoky but I did get rid of all the plastic. Then I sort of slit the side of the metal. I managed to bend the metal in and was able to get needle nose pliers on the metal and just pulled the metal with the magnet out.
To bad the replacement from Advance is the wrong one. I checked the numbers on line and they gave me the one it calls for. To bad it is Sunday and after 5. I will track down another sensor and see if I still have a misfire. Damn..............


Well
Originally Posted by dirtydog
wow, that's insane. At first I was like wtf is that wire doing in there and then holy crap he used a cumalong...lmao.

I figured it had to be rust stopping you and those concrete screws are tougher than sh*t.
Glad to see you atleast got the letal bulk part of it out. That piece will likely just sit at the bottom of the pan for it's life. I doubt you would have any problems unless it makes it's way to the drain hole and super slows the oil from coming out, then you'll need to push it in with a screw driver to let the oil out..haha unless of course you can get needle nose pliers in there to pull it out?
 
  #13  
Old 02-21-2016, 04:02 PM
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I have read a lot on here about how to remove a broken crank sensor. I found that the easiest way for me was to remove the plastic guard under the fender so you can see behind the Tire and from there you can drive a long screw into the bad broken sensor and then heat it with a cheap pluming torch from Walmart ($15.00) and it'll melt it just enough to pull it out without all the fuss over trying to get a drill in there or trying to rip things apart. The heat from the torch will not hurt anything as long as you keep it directed at the sensor. Also move any wires out of the way of the flame. It took me about ten minutes to remove mine after it broke using this method.
 
  #14  
Old 08-05-2017, 06:23 AM
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Default Same problem 04 ram 4.7 crank sensor

When you used that screw did you drill first or just screwed it
 
  #15  
Old 04-10-2018, 10:56 AM
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Default Something is wrong

Originally Posted by JayDee240
Well, It took a good 8 hours, but finally, it's (mostly) out. I used 3 different sized screws, finally on the 3rd I pulled the magnet out, but the plastic stayed in. It was loose, but there was a lip of rust that I couldn't pull it over, I tried to chisel and chip it apart to get it out but eventually gave up and just pushed it in. I sanded and filed for a good hour until the new sensor finally, very snugly, fit in. ... Sadly, the sensor was not my problem.....


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What exactly was the problem with your vehicle cause I can not figure out what is going on with my Jeep liberty sports 3.7 2002. It won't start but it tries just not completing fully. I even changed the crankshaft position sensor and the asd relay but still nothing.
 
  #16  
Old 08-13-2018, 06:48 PM
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Default This might help 2005 Dodge Ram 1500 4.7

Originally Posted by Jessica Wolford
What exactly was the problem with your vehicle cause I can not figure out what is going on with my Jeep liberty sports 3.7 2002. It won't start but it tries just not completing fully. I even changed the crankshaft position sensor and the asd relay but still nothing.
Please check you pins under your fuse box this might be part of the issue. I'll try and send pics
 

Last edited by Patrick Hayden; 08-13-2018 at 06:50 PM. Reason: Forgotten info
  #17  
Old 05-30-2022, 08:46 PM
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Default Mine...

Originally Posted by JayDee240
Well, It took a good 8 hours, but finally, it's (mostly) out. I used 3 different sized screws, finally on the 3rd I pulled the magnet out, but the plastic stayed in. It was loose, but there was a lip of rust that I couldn't pull it over, I tried to chisel and chip it apart to get it out but eventually gave up and just pushed it in. I sanded and filed for a good hour until the new sensor finally, very snugly, fit in. ... Sadly, the sensor was not my problem.....
Just reviving an old thread here to share my experiences. Same thing, 4.7L V8, attempting to remove the Crank sensor resulted in it breaking off inside the block. Using tips from this thread, I drilled out a 3/16 hole in the center of the carcass, then JB Welded a tap-con concrete screw. After letting it set for a few hours and curing, I sprayed some PB Blaster around the edge, let that sit until the next day. Then I used a $25 Harbor Freight slide hammer to work at it. After a hand full of whacks with the hammer, I could see the sensor was slowly being pulled out, so I kept at it. Within a minute or two I had the sensor out. Then I used a fine grit Dremel sanding drum to clean up the corrosion in the fitting, used a little gear oil to lube the o-ring, and replaced the sensor. Time from starting with the slide hammer to tightening down the new sensor was less than 10 mins.
 

Last edited by Bebop_man; 06-01-2022 at 02:07 AM.
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