[5th Gen : 08+]: 2008 Grand Caravan coolant leak
#61
12-16-2013, 06:19 PM
Photo
Here is a pic of what I did....
I just finished fixing a coolant leak on my 2008 Dodge Grand Caravan. The leak was coming from the Y-pipe just above the exhaust manifold. I found a YouTube video of a guy who replaced the plastic Y-pipe with a copper T-pipe and thought "Hmmm, I can do that". So I drove to the local hardware store and purchased a 3/4 inch copper t-pipe, a foot long piece of 5/8 heater hose and four clamps to lock it all in place. Once I removed the original plastic Y-pipe I found that one of the "outer rings" that secures the original hose onto the plastic Y-pipe was broken. I removed the old plastic ring and used one of the new clamps in it's place. Problem was solved. My new problem now is to find a use for the Foot long heater hose, new copper T-pipe and the three clamps...
Hopefully this saves someone a little cash, check the hard plastic rings that hold the hose to the Y-pipe. If it moves... it's broken, take it off (break it off) and wrap a new clamp ($1.50 at Advanced Auto) around it and tighten it down.
Hopefully this saves someone a little cash, check the hard plastic rings that hold the hose to the Y-pipe. If it moves... it's broken, take it off (break it off) and wrap a new clamp ($1.50 at Advanced Auto) around it and tighten it down.
#62
12-17-2013, 02:10 PM
#63
12-22-2013, 12:51 AM
I am starting to realize this is not the realiable vehicle I had hoped for. 60K miles and I fixed this leak today, did the water pump 3 months ago, alternator pulley 6 months ago, egr valve a year ago, radiator last month, and sliding door wiring harness 3 x's since 2010! This was the easiest and cheapest repair by far by not using Mopar parts. I bought the parts needed on ebay, theres someone packaging everything as a rear heater hose kit and it seemed worth the few extra bucks as the nearest Home Depot is 30 miles from me.
#65
10-31-2014, 01:33 PM
Warranty issues / T vs Y??
Hi,
I have the same leak in my 2008 Dodge Grand Caravan -- and the dealer quoted $450 for repair. A private mechanic did the repair for a fraction using the T-connector some have referenced here.
I have two questions:
1) Will any of these repairs void any part of the warranty I still have left? I have the Chrysler Added Care Plus extended warranty, and any feedback on this would be appreciated.
2) Is there any advantage of the Y connector over the T? My mechanic's prices are very reasonable, and if there is an advantage, I will go back to him with the Murray Y connector (84757).
Thank you for any help or feedback!
Zato
I have the same leak in my 2008 Dodge Grand Caravan -- and the dealer quoted $450 for repair. A private mechanic did the repair for a fraction using the T-connector some have referenced here.
I have two questions:
1) Will any of these repairs void any part of the warranty I still have left? I have the Chrysler Added Care Plus extended warranty, and any feedback on this would be appreciated.
2) Is there any advantage of the Y connector over the T? My mechanic's prices are very reasonable, and if there is an advantage, I will go back to him with the Murray Y connector (84757).
Thank you for any help or feedback!
Zato
#66
11-01-2014, 08:52 AM
question is they can try. but say engine dies and they say its cause of the repair. well that has nothing to do with the engine temperature control. if it plugged what would happen no heat in cabin, but say you go back and they find a coil related issue on that line its possible they could deny it. all depends on dealer. I say you fine. many done it. put in new one oem I believe it end up leaking all over again. don't think they updated the piece. oh forgot only other issue is if it leaks total coolant then yes void. but you notice that way before by level or possible light.
#67
11-04-2014, 03:06 PM
#68
11-26-2014, 12:23 AM
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I did this repair and I have 2 points: 1) The problem appears to be the proximity to the exhaust manifold and when you remove the broken Y fitting don't waste time trying to cut the collars off, just cut the hose behind the collars. then when you add your hose off the block, make it a few inches longer (at least) to get it away from the block. The added length of hose coming off the block more than compensates for the hose length lost with just cutting the Y connector off past the collars. 2) be careful with using metal tees as the use of plastic was for dissimular metals corrosion in the coolant system. Hope this helps
#69
04-01-2015, 08:57 PM
This is what Mopar should have made, or at least something similar
http://www.ebay.com/itm/301580191576
http://www.ebay.com/itm/301580191576
