Hey Cobra...did you ever figure out what your new leak was? Ours started as a slow leak and the leak was clear and oily. Honestly, it seemed like refrigerant oil and that's what we thought it was because the AC components and such are on that side. Well, I took it to have it checked out and the guy told me it's a metal coolant hose/lines going to the block. I confirmed that he meant coolant and not refrigerant line. When you did your 'Y' repair, did you notice any metal coolant lines? The guy told us it was rusted at the joint. To me this just doesn't make sense...my coolant is orange...this leak is clear and oily. Yeah...$500 to repair it. They saw a woman and thought I was dumb. Thanks for any info you can give.

 

Brought in my 2008 Grand Caravan SE to the dealer today to take care of RECALL issues, and also had them check out a coolant leak. (The thing was smoking like crazy when I rolled in for service) I popped the hood and the service guy and I both saw the leak at the Y fitting like others have descibed, and the exhuast was burning the coolant away. So I paid 75 bucks for them to diagnose the leak and they come back saying:

"Found a plastic union fitting in the rear coolant tube assembly leaking. Needs coolant tube assembly on firewall." quote of $600 bucks because they have to remove the heater core to access it.

From what I've read here, I'm being taken for a ride, right? Sounds like 20 bucks in parts and a half hour of my time and I can do it myself.

Is this what you guys were talking about? The repairs mentioned in this thread SHOULD do the trick right? Thanks for help guys.

 

It may fix it and it's likely a combo of this problem and a metal coolant hose that connects to the water-pump. I fixed the problem you're talking about for under $5 and used a brass fitting and a scrap piece of hose the guy at the parts store gave me, like one of the other posters here talked about. It did well for a week and I started to do a slow drip but it's not coming from that fix. I found this video that shows where the metal coolant line is and how to fix it. When I looked it up it was around $90 to get the part...the shop wanted $500 to fix it. I'll do it myself after I get the part. It looks just as simple to fix...just a bit more tedious than the "Y."

Here's a link to that metal coolant line video. This is of a 2008 but they're set up similarly for the most part. Just make sure to get the replacement part for your correct year. I just went and looked at the comments on the video again and this is what another person had to say about the fix in the video, "muzikmanernie THE SAFER WAY WILL BE TAKING THE PASSENGER WHEEL OFF AND THE PLASTIC GUARD.. YOU DONT HAVE TO GET UNDER THE A CAR AT ALL...SAFER AND EASIER...BUT GOOD VIDEO." Maybe you should read through all the comments to see anyone else offers other tips. I'm glad I did so I wont have to get under the van now.


This is what my fix looked like. It works well but I want to pretty it up a bit and reposition the clamps:

 

I had a leak at the y pipe... The leak was from the factory inastalled hose clamps, these are put on at the plant and are just heat molded plastic... The hose & pipe was fine, I removed the original plastic hose clamps by carefully cutting with a dremel (without touching the hose ) and prying off with a screwdriver.. Once all plastic hose clamps were removed I installed 3 new stainless steel hoseclamps tightened and topped off antifreeze and started vehicle... Wa LA no more leaks... I believe the plastic clamps loosened from the heat . This repair cost me $3.90.... $1.29 X 3 clamps.....

 

Please recall it, known defect. At minimum release part to auto part stores. 200.00 charge is outrageous.

 

Gate now sells replacement "Y" connectors including molded hoses. They are part number 23933 for the "Y" above the exhaust crossover pipe (this is the one that most people are having problems with) and part number 23931 for the "Y" connector next to the firewall.

They are still a little pricey (around $55.00 each on ebay) but might be worth it if they are actually "a stronger more reliable component" as Gates indicates in this bulletin: Gates Bulletin PA004-13.

From Gates Bulletin PA004-13:
George

 

I just my plastic y pipe next to thermostat housing I have 4.0 engine, cut plastic clamps with dremel tool,slide hoses off go to advance get the y pipe 5/8 od,7'' long cost $7.00 get new screw clamps, also top off radiator,that what it cost me dealer wanted $400.00 Rick ncpa

 

is this the actual part everyone is talking about?

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...599_0396943609

 

That part number (NAPA #NBH 16599) appears to be the same as the Gates part number 23933 I mentioned above, that is the one over the crossover pipe. They also have a part number (NAPA #NBH 16598) for the "Y" connector next to the firewall.

George

 

I just finished fixing a coolant leak on my 2008 Dodge Grand Caravan. The leak was coming from the Y-pipe just above the exhaust manifold. I found a YouTube video of a guy who replaced the plastic Y-pipe with a copper T-pipe and thought "Hmmm, I can do that". So I drove to the local hardware store and purchased a 3/4 inch copper t-pipe, a foot long piece of 5/8 heater hose and four clamps to lock it all in place. Once I removed the original plastic Y-pipe I found that one of the "outer rings" that secures the original hose onto the plastic Y-pipe was broken. I removed the old plastic ring and used one of the new clamps in it's place. Problem was solved. My new problem now is to find a use for the Foot long heater hose, new copper T-pipe and the three clamps...


Hopefully this saves someone a little cash, check the hard plastic rings that hold the hose to the Y-pipe. If it moves... it's broken, take it off (break it off) and wrap a new clamp ($1.50 at Advanced Auto) around it and tighten it down.