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2010 Grand caravan and rear brakes

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  #1  
Old 04-26-2011, 10:43 AM
tracyinnewcastle tracyinnewcastle is offline
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Default 2010 Grand caravan and rear brakes

Is anyone else having brake issues. At 8,000 km we took it in, last March 2010,. and they had to replace the rear brake pads and rotors, obviously covered under warranty.
Now a little over a yr ago they have gone again, at barely 41,000 km. They are telling me they are out of warranty. Does this not seem excessive? I do all highway driving and have never had a vehicle have brakes go this quickly!
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  #2  
Old 04-26-2011, 10:58 AM
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Tizzy1 Tizzy1 is offline
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Welcome to the forum. You could say these vans have had brake issues. They extended the warrenty for the front brakes on the '08 and '09 vans. They haven't done anything with the rear brakes because they are not as common an issue but I have seen some cases I would concider odd. Make sure the calipers get checked, I think it's usually more of a caliper sticking issue than anything else.

Oh, and love me some New Castle beer....mmmmmmm.
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  #3  
Old 06-23-2011, 02:44 PM
Bedford Bedford is offline
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Default Rear callipers

I had problems with the rear brakes on our Grand Caravan 2010. Callipers were seizing and were replaced with a different model (new design) free of charge. I was concerned at the time about excessive wear on the pads and the rotors but was told everything was fine.

10 months later, the rear rotors and pads had to be replaced but the front ones are fine! I argued that the premature rear brake wear was more than likely linked to the faulty calipers replaced less than a year ago. Might as well have been talking to a wall!

I was even told that it is common for rear brakes to wear out before the front ones on these vans. Anyone else having similar problems with rear brakes?
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  #4  
Old 06-23-2011, 05:03 PM
2010SXT4.0L 2010SXT4.0L is offline
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I have 45,000 kms on mine and front shakes again....have had front and rears replaced before 20000kms and it doesn't look good again.I take it easy on them too but now I don't care just drive the hell out of it....oh yeah I have rust showing along pillars of driver and passenger window on the doors.
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  #5  
Old 06-23-2011, 05:20 PM
DodgeCaravan2010SXT DodgeCaravan2010SXT is offline
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Damm you should show me the list of things to add to mine too. you have had too many to date. mine 12,900km so far good. we dont drive it like we stole it but sometimes i push it. although my concern is tranny and little shake. other than that its been pretty great so far,
]

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Originally Posted by 2010SXT4.0L View Post
I have 45,000 kms on mine and front shakes again....have had front and rears replaced before 20000kms and it doesn't look good again.I take it easy on them too but now I don't care just drive the hell out of it....oh yeah I have rust showing along pillars of driver and passenger window on the doors.
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  #6  
Old 06-23-2011, 05:53 PM
2010SXT4.0L 2010SXT4.0L is offline
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Just kidding on the hard driving ....can't afford the fuel if I did
It is frustrating though
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  #7  
Old 11-20-2011, 10:57 PM
Herb7472 Herb7472 is offline
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Default defective back brakes.

I have a 2010 Grand Caravan sxt, bought new 11/09. This spring I noticed the rear brakes overheating at times. Not always the same wheel. When I would stop and get out of the van, I could smell them. The wheel would be so hot I couldn't touch it, while the other wheels were cool.
At about 21,000 miles the rear brakes began to squeal like Rob123 said. The dealer said it is now recommended that the brakes be taken apart, cleaned and relube the guides every 18 to 20,000 miles because of the salt used in our NY winters. I paid them to do this although I am NOT convinced that is the problem. I also found the pads were nearly warn out already while the fronts were still like new. Everyone knows that front brakes wear out twice as fast as rear pads. Rather than allow the dealer to replace the pads and rotors I wanted to be sure the heating problem was solved. I managed to get through this summer and although sometimes one wheel felt hotter than it should, I had to replace the pads and rotors. This week, after a short trip. I got out to smell hot brakes again. One rear wheel was hotter than a pistol again!!!
So I am going in tomorrow to complain again.
It could be bad calipers, these are the kind with the spiral emergency brake, or it could be a defect in the anti-lock brake system, thinking that a wheel is spinning and applying braking to it. Whatever the cause it is a defect in this van.
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  #8  
Old 11-29-2011, 09:57 AM
diggyj diggyj is offline
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Just wanted to add my 2 cents.

I purchased a 2010 Chrysler Town & Country brand new from a dealership with 28 km on it in July 2010.

In september of 2011 I was getting wheel shaking and pulsing at 34000 km and after taking the car in the said rear rotors and pads should be replaced. Had it done for $500.

Recently I was having the same symptoms so I took the car to a different dealership yesterday to get their opinion and the vehicle now has 41000 km on it. The said the rear rotors have heat spots on them and they recommend replacing them. So after 70 days and depending on the 2 different odometer readings on the invoice anywhere between 6000 and 6935 km they need to be replaced again? What the heck.

They say that the caliper/pad is not moving/releasing properly and say that it could have been an improper service by the first dealership. It may be a bigger concern and for a new vehicle like this they should investigate why rear rotors are warping.

Any thoughts about what I should do? Thank you very much.

DJ

Last edited by diggyj; 11-29-2011 at 11:48 AM.. Reason: add info
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  #9  
Old 11-30-2011, 01:59 PM
TTSC TTSC is offline
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Default Ditto

Hi all,

All I say is "Yep!"

I too have a 2010 with the same break issues. I didn't, however, go back to my Dodge dealer (the customer service level is - urm - 'in need of improvement'. They have a sign above the Service Desk which says "...Please Note: Brakes ARE NOT covered by your new vehicle warrenty...")

So I took my van (2010 SXT - 34000Km) to a trusted independant mechanic. He has just called me to advise the following:
1) The Brake Shake is 'normal' for this van - that does not mean that he agrees with it, but it is just that he has seen many other van of the same make/age/mileage with the same issue.
2) The Rear brakes are wearing faster than the front - this is because the brake bias on the 'new shape' vans is approx 50:50 (maybe more), as opposed to the more traditional 70:30.
3) The front brakes shake because the pads in those are made of a hard compound which heat up very quickly and start to cause the rotors to warp.

Since my van does mainly town driving (and the shake only really occurs when the brakes are hot from highway driving), the mechanic suggests living with it until spring and then having new pads & rotors fitted in preparation for the summer driving season.

In summary, it seems that what we all have here is a result of poor quality parts and/or some form of design issue.

Either way, I guess we just have to live with it.....

Last edited by TTSC; 11-30-2011 at 02:01 PM.. Reason: I cannot spell!!
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  #10  
Old 11-30-2011, 04:54 PM
2010SXT4.0L 2010SXT4.0L is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by diggyj View Post
Just wanted to add my 2 cents.

I purchased a 2010 Chrysler Town & Country brand new from a dealership with 28 km on it in July 2010.

In september of 2011 I was getting wheel shaking and pulsing at 34000 km and after taking the car in the said rear rotors and pads should be replaced. Had it done for $500.

Recently I was having the same symptoms so I took the car to a different dealership yesterday to get their opinion and the vehicle now has 41000 km on it. The said the rear rotors have heat spots on them and they recommend replacing them. So after 70 days and depending on the 2 different odometer readings on the invoice anywhere between 6000 and 6935 km they need to be replaced again? What the heck.

They say that the caliper/pad is not moving/releasing properly and say that it could have been an improper service by the first dealership. It may be a bigger concern and for a new vehicle like this they should investigate why rear rotors are warping.

Any thoughts about what I should do? Thank you very much.

DJ
Where was the work done? I would call Chrysler and inform them of the problems and the work you have had done. Send them copies of the work done and see what results you get.Good luck and keep us updated.
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  #11  
Old 11-30-2011, 07:23 PM
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lovvorn lovvorn is offline
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Default I fix mine @ no cost !!

I bought a new 2010 caravan se with 4 miles on it on 9-3-10 an noticed the dust on the rear wheels right off . I looked @ the cable from the pedal to the rear brake pads an saw that the merge of the cables one cable from the pedal to a splitter located just under the drivers side rear door where it splite going to each wheel had retaining lugs looking like round fishing weights that fit into holes one from the front & one for each rear wheel . One of the round retainer lugs was not in its proper place taking up all the slack & holding the brakes on . I took a pair of plyers an over powered the lug forcing into it prospective place . No more brake ware. I have over 9,000 miles with no problems . I modified the map sensor an went from 20 mpg to 30 mpg on the highway mpg an 23 mpg around town believe it or not with a 3.3 engine . Use the 89 oct. gas for max power mine is bad fast for a small 3.3 with the M.A.P. mod. will out run a 3.8 @ a 25 mile roll & get 7 mpg over the 4.0 . good luck on the brakes . I drive my Goat like I stole it !!!! mine has no top end limiter ! My Goat is a top speed King that reminds me of 44 years ago I bought a new Road Runner comming home from the Army that would do 145-150 mph eaisly.
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  #12  
Old 12-01-2011, 09:56 AM
Herb7472 Herb7472 is offline
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Default Update

Well, here is an update on my recent experience with my 2010 Dodge sxt.
After my last entry here, I did complain to my local new assistant Service Manager. He seemed like a nice understanding man who wanted to help solve the problem. He listened to all that had happened and agreed something wasn't right. So he had his mechanic take the brakes apart and check everything. He said the one caliper that had overheated didn't act right so replaced it. We both agreed it likely wasn't the whole problem but it is a start. Last year when I was first aware of the problem BOTH rear brakes were overheating, intermittently. Sometimes one side and then the other. However, he said he couldn't replace the other caliper until that side showed signs of acting up too.
So I am watching them closely now. People probably wonder why this guy jumps out of his van and runs around feeling of the wheels! :-)
TTSC's Mechanic may very well be correct that they changed the braking ratio to 50/50 or so, but why not simply explain that to people?? Rather than the lame excuse that our salty roads require cleaning every 18-20,000 miles? All that does is put money in the dealer's pocket. The brakes still wear out early.
Everyone should keep all their receipts, log all complaints and just maybe a class action will come out of this. (Hope no one has to die first) Also, if you get no satisfaction from your dealer, Do as TTSC did and find a good reputable mechanic to regularly check and service your brakes. Keep all records about this too. It will be cheaper and give you some peace of mind.
I still feel the TLC system may be part of the problem, applying braking when it is NOT needed. I turn mine off while driving on dry roads.
Keep us all posted on any changes.
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  #13  
Old 12-02-2011, 06:17 PM
Montreal300 Montreal300 is offline
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I'll throw this into the pot for general knowledge. The best way to warp a rotor is to haul down from 120km/hr to zero, at a stop light, and keep your foot on the brake. While the rest of the rotor cools down, when at rest, the area where the hot pad is won't cool down at the same rate. The result is a warped rotor.
Solution? Put it in park and release the brakes or better yet, inch forward to move the hot pad to a different area of the rotor.
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  #14  
Old 12-03-2011, 12:24 AM
dan865 dan865 is offline
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Default 09 back brakes

I have an 09 caravan and also experienced intermittent heating/sqealing/hanging on back wheels. Shortly thereafter(35K) I replaced the pads and found that the pads were hanging up in the slides(stainless pieces). I filed off the rust on the guides and protected from further corrosion with never seize before reinstalling the SS clips(I also lubed the pad slide tabs lightly). Make certain that the pads slide easily! No problem since ~ +28k
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Old 12-03-2011, 08:56 AM
Montreal300 Montreal300 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dan865 View Post
I have an 09 caravan and also experienced intermittent heating/sqealing/hanging on back wheels. Shortly thereafter(35K) I replaced the pads and found that the pads were hanging up in the slides(stainless pieces). I filed off the rust on the guides and protected from further corrosion with never seize before reinstalling the SS clips(I also lubed the pad slide tabs lightly). Make certain that the pads slide easily! No problem since ~ +28k
X2 I lube the stainless clips on both sides and bend them so that they hold the pad firmly (no play) and bend the center ear of the clip to keep the pad firmly in the caliper. If the pads and clips are loose, you get a rattle over bumps. Also lube the back of each pad where it sits against the caliper body and pistons and lube the caliper guide pins. No squeal and nice even wear on the pads.
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  #16  
Old 12-03-2011, 10:14 AM
Herb7472 Herb7472 is offline
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I have had 4 caravans now and never warped a rotor. Just lucky I guess. But Montreal300 is right, as is a way to warp them, and burn the pads too. Intermittent braking on steep downhill roads is better too.
And yes, I do as dan865 does with the ss clips and tabs. I have watched as supposedly "Good" mechanics changed brakes. They lube the guide pins but ignore cleaning and lubing the pad tabs, ss clips and contact points. I pointed it out and one man said "Oh there is so much pressure in a brake system that it won't matter about a little rust and dirt there." What most people don't realize it that there is NO pressure applied to release the pad contact from the rotor. So, if the guides, tabs or other parts bind or DON"T release properly, the pads will stay in contact even slightly, causing heat, wear and less gas millage.
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  #17  
Old 12-04-2011, 12:59 PM
dodgetech02 dodgetech02 is offline
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bob dawe dodgetech02
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most problem I find is in the brake pad holder with rust under the steel clips binding the pads .the oem pads come with a warning about cleaning the slides ,living in a salt belt area I see a pile of them .still no excuse for wearing out so soon.
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  #18  
Old 12-04-2011, 11:04 PM
ArtPiz14 ArtPiz14 is offline
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Default 2010 rear brakes Dodge grand caravan

At 20,000 miles replaced rear brakes and rotors. Car had a shake. broughht it back in and was told rear rotors were warped. had them recut again. Still had brake shake. Told i needed new rear brakes and rotors at 40,000 miles. Told Dodge that if all i am going to get is 20k out of your parts i will put in after market parts. Tomorow i plan on replaceing them myself. +++I may put in drilled rotors if problem persist. If rotors are warping then it may be locking up. Also, the wife is only getting 12mpg city which agrees with them locking and draging. well tomorow i will know more. If not i plan on getting good at replaceing them.
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Old 12-05-2011, 07:05 AM
ArtPiz14 ArtPiz14 is offline
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Who do I make a complaint about the brakes too. There should be something covereed under the warrenty like they did for the front brakes
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Old 12-05-2011, 10:46 AM
Herb7472 Herb7472 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArtPiz14 View Post
At 20,000 miles replaced rear brakes and rotors. Car had a shake. broughht it back in and was told rear rotors were warped. had them recut again. Still had brake shake. Told i needed new rear brakes and rotors at 40,000 miles. Told Dodge that if all i am going to get is 20k out of your parts i will put in after market parts. Tomorow i plan on replaceing them myself. +++I may put in drilled rotors if problem persist. If rotors are warping then it may be locking up. Also, the wife is only getting 12mpg city which agrees with them locking and draging. well tomorow i will know more. If not i plan on getting good at replaceing them.
Keep us updated.
12 mpg is totally unacceptable. With your history of brake problems, It is evident the brakes are dragging or staying on a lot. Yes, you can save a lot by cleaning and replacing the brakes often yourself but that won't help your mileage. I still feel problem is in the ESP or antilock brake systems. The computer is falsely applying or not releasing the brakes. I am running with the ESP turned off now and haven't found a hot wheel. But since the problem has been so intermittent, I can't be sure yet.
I haven't been able to find any way to enter complaints to the company other than through the dealer.
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Old 12-05-2011, 10:46 AM
 
 
 
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