Everything I said was 100% true. I know more abut brake systems than 99% of the mechanics you will find.


Please know I can't guarantee the thoroughness of your dealership mechanic with respect to troubleshooting, repairing and/or updating your system so results may vary. I did not guarantee that brackets fix all troubles. The updated brackets will fix the more widespread, common cases for certain model years where the system is properly lubricated and maintained but pad backing plate clearances are too tight and binding.


Updated brackets will not fix rusted pins, cracked rubber dust covers or rusted e-brake cables or lack of lubrication.....or caliper pistons that are rusted due to neglected brake fluid where H2O contamination got into the fluid from bad weather or washing the motor compartment. These are the problems I had and since corrected. I don't have to trust what some mechanic claimed he did, I do it all myself. I used to flush the brake fluid in my track race cars every 3 months to keep the H2O content low and to stop system boil and caliper bore rust. There are GC owners with 10 year old vehicles who never once got that done. I have seen brake fluid in GC's that looks like day old coffee or milk from heavy water contamination which results in sticking brakes. Oversize brakes can rust and stick too by the way lol.


My standard size brake system has been working perfecting and wearing normally, but only AFTER I rebuilt it. My caliper pins were clearly never lubricated during brake pad replacements by former owners in the first 80k mi. Calipers were all jambed, ****-eyed, dragging and showing major distress. They are supposed to be free sliding by design but I had to use tremendous force to break rusted parts loose and remove them. The rubber parts were all original and cracked from heat stress and age, never replaced or greased during prior brake jobs per mfr service instructions. The moron mechanics saved 5 minutes and skipped that step. After my repair the floating calipers slide freely like butter now, braking is smooth as glass and the pads still look new after 30k mi. I have 75% pad thickness remaining. If you still have trouble I am truly sorry to hear. But you can blame the particular mechanic who skipped one or more steps, not Dodge. My brakes are totally fine with proper service and they share the same design as yours.

 

I make all kinds of money replacing brakes on these vans, the problem I see with them is the pads are to tight in the adaptors, I grind the pad tabs slightly on each end so they slide easily back and fourth, copper anti seize on flats and calliper piston and back of the pads. I have not have one come back to me...

 

My Van a 2010 is now approching 98830 miles. The rear brakes are now in the shop for the 2nd time to have the pads replaced But the front have never been touched. One of the roters in the front is warped. When I've taken it it to be serviced and bring up this subject they just shrug off the issue.

 

I may have said this on this thread before, but I believe that if there is a design-related problem here, it's that the brake proportioning valve divides the hydraulic pressure 50/50 between the front and rear without increasing the size of the rear brakes. Add to that the fact that the OEM pad materials are semi-metallic on the front and NAO on the rear. Given all that and shops not properly lubricating everything when they change the pads it's not entirely unexpected that the rear brakes wear faster than the front.

I put ceramic pads on the rear and took the extra time to remove the old grease from the caliper slide pins and put a fresh layer of grease on. They've been on there over 3 years now and that included towing a small U-Haul trailer across the U.S., and they probably still have a few months left on them. That's not too bad when you consider that my Mopar pads on the front lasted 5 years and I replaced them 2 weeks ago only because the rotors (factory rotors with 115,000 miles) had warped. I have never replaced the calipers or caliper brackets. I did have a sticking issue on a rear wheel once. I fixed that by cleaning out all the grease and putting fresh grease in and I haven't had a problem since.

 

My rear brakes were starting to smell hot and my MPG were decreasing, so I used a non-contact infrared thermometer and drove a few miles and checked the temp and they were like 400°F on both sides. Looked over the caliper real good and found a broken e-brake lever return spring, half of it was still attached. I used an object to hit the lever on the caliper to the e-brake off position and that solved the problem. I didn't use the e-brake again until I replaced the springs on both rear calipers. The springs had rusted out and fallen apart causing the e-brake not to fully dissengage causing a dragging brake. There is a chance if the spring isn't strong enough, it could cause the dragging as well. I think replacing/inspecting the spring every time you have the back wheels off would be a good practice. The chrysler p/n for the 2010 is: 68039257AA

 

Hey everyone, I have a brake rattle on the rear driver side, the caliper does not hold pressure and rattles over bumps, is there a brake line check valve that may be faulty?

 

Calipers do not "hold pressure" from a brake fluid standpoint unless the system is defective or you ride with your foot on the brake pedal. Pressure stops rattle during braking, but when not braking it causes brake drag, pad wear out, poor performance and bad fuel economy. Pad Rattling is managed by anti-rattle Spring clips that preload the pads against the other hardware. The springs do not press the pad against the rotor surface, so they do not promote brake drag. The springs can weaken or fail, causing rattle.

 

Thanks for your response, the caliper is actually retracting completely unliike the others which only retract enough to allow the rotor to move without drag, the question is why this one caliper is retracting so far?

 

Here is the fix. Do not replace with chrysler daimler (poorly engineered german junk) calipers. Buy aftermarket calipers and problem is solve as i solved this very problem with my 2010 dodge grand caravan sxt. (daimler purchased and ownde chrysler for awhile)stay away from everything that is made in germany because it is all junk and if you your history right that is why they lost both world wars because of poor engineering. Deficiently design tanks and motor vehicles that were always breaking down. So you thing their war-time propaganda was their best. Nooooo way!!! Their current marketing strategy over the last 5o years that their products are engineered superbly is their biggest propaganda campaign ever. Do not buy into it. Talk to anyone like myself that has owned german vehicles and they will confirm this or passively confirm this. So replace your calipers with aftermarket non-chrsler and much less of a problem based on my personal experience. Glad i could help fix the problem. There is a vast majority of "stupid engineers" both abroad and in the usa that cheated their way through an engineering degree and do not have the qualification nor the problem solving abilities required by the engineering profession. This in part explains why there are so many poorly engineered products/parts out there.

 

The rear brakes on 2008-2010 are indeed problematic, but many aftermarket parts are even worse. The pins and clips are made from mild steel instead of stainless so they rust and jamb. The majority of aftermarket manufacturers produce identical parts rather than upgrading to stainless. I don’t get the anti-German rant at all. First of all, Caravan and the T&C manufacturing did not suddenly move to Germany from Canada when they bought the company. The flawed rear disc system is 100% Canadian. You can spend all day long trying to make a subjective argument that German Engineering sucks, but it’s totally meaningless because you have only owned a handful of vehicles and they do not represent the entire fleet. The FACTS relating to quality and reliability are available on Consumer Reports and JD Powers. Chrysler/Dodge quality has been consistently below average forever, and it had little to do with Daimler or Stellantis ownership. The flawed designs manufactured in America came from Detroit Michigan and Windsor Canada. Jeep and Ram diesel have kept the company afloat. The best transmissions that were available in a Chrysler over the last 2 decades were found in Chrysler 300, and sourced from Mercedes. The Mercedes transmissions are bulletproof. They hold up behind modified V12 AMG twin turbos outputting 700+ HP, pushing 3 tons of car.