Hi folks
Hoping some one can help here
Daughter bought a used 2007 charger
It died other night and I towed it back to house
This is her first car and car loan so she(and I) don't have a lot of money

Battery had died, s I jumped it and started searching what caused problem.
Tested alternator first at auto zone on bench then in field with car running it out put 35v.(used a multi-meter at back of alternator) Also the idiot light go out after car starts.

Cleaned all connections and grounds. Battery never got over 12v so I replaced that, voltage reads the same at the trunk fuse box and the same at the engine compartment fuse box. Checked the 40amp fuses in the trunk with a meter, as well a visual inspection on all spade fuses.

Found the engine compartment battery cable had been resting against the exhaust manifold and had melted the jacket. Insulated it and supported it so it wouldn't rub.

Still not showing a charge from alternator at the battery in the trunk???
What am I missing. I don't want to run new battery down back to where I need to bench charge it (I don't have a battery charger)

What could be keeping the voltage out put from the alternator from reaching the battery. It appears a previous mechanic has replaced the battery cable in the trunk since it looked new.

I need some help here from someone I cant find any fusible links in the engine compartment cable what else is there I need to look at.

This was a dream car for her and her first so she is desperate and at this point I cant afford to go to a shop. Please weigh in with any ideas

Thanks

 

Is this the right forum to post in over 50 views and no replies???

 

I am wondering if the cable that was rubbing against the manifold shorted something out preventing charge.

Assuming that there are no problems with the computer, there has to be an open wire somewhere. There is not much to the battery system. So if your alternator is good and your battery is new, then you have to have a bad wire somewhere and needs to be traced.

Because of the exposed wire rubbing on the manifold, I would take it back to autozone and have them hook up the scan tool to pull the stored codes on the computer. I have a feeling there is something there that might point you in the correct direction. Once you have the codes, you can come back here and the thread at the top of this section has what each code means.

Finally, be patient when you request information here. None of us work this forum full time. We are volunteers that work regular jobs and have families ourselves. We are not on that much over the weekend. We are here to help, but you must be patient. I understand it is nerve racking when your daughters car has crapped out and she is probably cussing the car right now and you want to help. We have several techs here so maybe someone else will pop in if they have seen a similar problem.

 

You need a new alternator. 35V is WAY too high and overcharging the system is murder to the computers. Alternator should only charge at less than 16V. If you want to be sure, pull the alternator off and take it to a starter/alternator shop, not Autozone or any other parts store. They're tester is A LOT better. The parts stores tester only checks the regulator/rectifier circuit, and if the voltage is high enough (not if it's too high) sounds like the regulator is screwed if it says the alternator is cranking out 35V. Where abouts are you located, I know it's a long shot, but I would be more than willing to help out if you're near by.

 

Another thought, if cash flow is the issue, the starter shop rebuilding it is usually cheaper than buying one from the parts store, only issue is down time of the vehicle, or scrap yard...if you don't have a favorite yard around, www.car-part.com is a good source to find one, and get an average cost of them for haggling at the yard.