Proven suggestions anybody on how to improve fuel mileage on 2011 6.7l Cummins?
#11
07-31-2011, 10:28 PM
Champion
EGR is Exhaust Gas Recirculation - to reduce oxides of nitrogen (one of the bad emissions) some exhaust is cooled off and injected back into the intake, reducing the amount of burnable oxygen entering the cylinder, therefore reducing the temperature in the cylinder, which reduces the NOX emissions.
DPF is Diesel Particulate Filter - to reduce the black cloud of soot coming out the tailpipe, there is basically a filter that collects the soot particles (carbon) until it reaches a threshold, then the engine dumps a bunch of extra fuel to increase the exhaust temps enough to burn off the accumulated soot in the filter.
Huh? What? You want to reduce soot coming out the tailpipe because soot is bad, so you inject the soot into a cooler then back into the intake in order to reduce exhaust gas temps, but when enough soot collects you inject more fuel in order to raise exhaust temps to burn off the soot?
Yeah, makes a lot of sense.
The DPF is an exhaust restriction. Restrictions hurt fuel economy. Adding fuel to burn off the soot hurts fuel economy.
Don't even get me started on the EGR system, which takes soot-filled exhaust (which is bad) and runs it back through the intake.
I use an H&S Black Maxx programmer. The Mini Maxx is similar, but with a smaller screen. A lot of people like the Smarty programmer. I'm not familiar with their options, but I believe it allows a lot more user customization. I don't have the patience for tinkering with the tune on my truck, so I'm happy with the H&S products. I also get EGT, Boost, Trans temp, and Engine temp gauges on the display (4 total spots, LOTS of sensors to choose from).
When you remove the EGR and/or DPF, here in the States anyway, you're violating the federal emissions laws. The fine is hefty, so I hear, but in most areas there is no monitoring.
You'll get a check engine light unless you have a programmer to shut off the EGR and DPF systems. If you retain the stock parts, both are 100% re-installable. The dealer will be able to tell that you've monkeyed with them though.
The combination of programmer + DPF/EGR deletes will yield a LOT more power, depending on settings. You'll pick up hp + torque, fuel economy if you can keep your foot out of it, and you'll blow black clouds of soot out the tailpipe if you crank the power up far enough.
I have an S&B intake, Black Maxx programmer, AFE 4" turbo-back (dpf delete) exhaust, EGR deleted, and an AirDog fuel lift pump and the first night I went drag racing I ran a 13.8 @ 97mph in the 1/4 mile, trailer hitch and lumber rack and all, weighing in at about 7500 pounds. Stock turbo, stock gearing... Oh, I did rebuild my trans with a better converter, SFI billet flexplate, shift kit, and better clutches.
DPF is Diesel Particulate Filter - to reduce the black cloud of soot coming out the tailpipe, there is basically a filter that collects the soot particles (carbon) until it reaches a threshold, then the engine dumps a bunch of extra fuel to increase the exhaust temps enough to burn off the accumulated soot in the filter.
Huh? What? You want to reduce soot coming out the tailpipe because soot is bad, so you inject the soot into a cooler then back into the intake in order to reduce exhaust gas temps, but when enough soot collects you inject more fuel in order to raise exhaust temps to burn off the soot?
Yeah, makes a lot of sense.
The DPF is an exhaust restriction. Restrictions hurt fuel economy. Adding fuel to burn off the soot hurts fuel economy.
Don't even get me started on the EGR system, which takes soot-filled exhaust (which is bad) and runs it back through the intake.
I use an H&S Black Maxx programmer. The Mini Maxx is similar, but with a smaller screen. A lot of people like the Smarty programmer. I'm not familiar with their options, but I believe it allows a lot more user customization. I don't have the patience for tinkering with the tune on my truck, so I'm happy with the H&S products. I also get EGT, Boost, Trans temp, and Engine temp gauges on the display (4 total spots, LOTS of sensors to choose from).
When you remove the EGR and/or DPF, here in the States anyway, you're violating the federal emissions laws. The fine is hefty, so I hear, but in most areas there is no monitoring.
You'll get a check engine light unless you have a programmer to shut off the EGR and DPF systems. If you retain the stock parts, both are 100% re-installable. The dealer will be able to tell that you've monkeyed with them though.
The combination of programmer + DPF/EGR deletes will yield a LOT more power, depending on settings. You'll pick up hp + torque, fuel economy if you can keep your foot out of it, and you'll blow black clouds of soot out the tailpipe if you crank the power up far enough.
I have an S&B intake, Black Maxx programmer, AFE 4" turbo-back (dpf delete) exhaust, EGR deleted, and an AirDog fuel lift pump and the first night I went drag racing I ran a 13.8 @ 97mph in the 1/4 mile, trailer hitch and lumber rack and all, weighing in at about 7500 pounds. Stock turbo, stock gearing... Oh, I did rebuild my trans with a better converter, SFI billet flexplate, shift kit, and better clutches.