Lower Control Arm Done 2000 stratus ES
Well I managed to replace the LCA. It was pretty straight forward. The old ball joint dropped into heat shield and the heat shield bent to the extent it was gauging my alloy wheel on the inside. Clearance is very tight. Getting the LCA off took about 1.5 hours of take my time work, with breaks for coffee. Wheel, rotor, brake pads and heat shield had to be romoved. Next was the balljoint at the end of the sway bar. That held up the job due to a lack of allen wrench. Allen wrench is required to hold the balljoint of sway bar while removing the nut that held the swaybar balljoint to the body. Next the sway bar bracket had to be removed (2 nuts). Next the LCA bolts had to be removed. Fairly easy as long as you have a 2 ft pipe to put on the end of your wrench. Ball joint on LCA actually hung so low that one balljoint separator was useless. Lucky for me I had two separators. I piggy backed the two of them and the balljoint separated with a 2 pound hammer.
Getting the LCA back in place took hours due to blinds spots for nuts and the LCA refusal to line up in its proper place. Having an extra car jack will come in handy.
The lower end of strut clevis was not under compression as I thought it might be.
In the shop this might take an hour. At home, with minimal tools, the first time, you can expect to frig with it for 6-7 hours.
I had a tremendous amount of sand (FLORIDA) that I had to clean off threads, nuts, and in the housing area for the LCA points of attachment. That added to my time.
I would recommend replacing the brake pads while they are off, and the sway bar balljoint, since it is off also. You might consider the transaxle as well. Heck you might as well consider the Upper Control Arm also.
I ordered a part that was a third of the price that the parts stores wanted. It was made in China by Dorman. Hopefully it will last a year or two. I have low expectations. But who knows. It might last as long as the last one.