My car is acting kinda funny... when it's idling you can kind of hear a grinding/real slight ticking noise, but when you push the clutch in it stops. The fluid is full, it's a new transmission, new clutch/flywheel/halfshafts...the works..., it kind of sounds like the bad one that I took out of the car. When you take off or come to a stop with it in gear it shakes a little and makes kind of a whining noise. What would be causing this, I have heard of the clutch not being lined up or not torqued right, but the clutch is a one piece unit, so it couldnt be that, and all the bolts are torqued to spec. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

Throwout bearing ???

 

It sounds like you just have to adjust the master cylinder rod that's connected to the clutch pedal. The clutch could be pulled back just enough to slip or it could be that the clutch is not seated all the way down, however you want to look at it.
If the tranny is practically new, it's most like likely and adjustment that needs to be done to the shaft.

 

i know u just got urs done but that was hapening to me and my trans/ clutch was shot its funny cuz cottmon just put a new clutch in last summer i didnt beat on it. it should have lasted longer i think they did something to it to temp fix it waste of 1000$ any way i think wat happend was that when the car was in neutral something was bouncing around throwout bearing think so i needed a new trans and clutch lucky for me my bro goes to a tech school for cars and i had a trans and clutch put in labor free runs like a beaut

 

What is the correct adjustment for the clutch, it should be about half inch of play on the top??? and where should the release be, from the top or bottom? The throwout bearing is new, so that wouldnt be the issue. I've heard a few different theories on how this clutch should be.

 

Correct. Clutches differ for so many reasons so that question is not going to get an accurate answer. The one thing that you should know is that it should disengage about halfway (if not more) at the estimated halfway point of pedal travel and should be close to full disengage at the final 1/4 of pedal travel if not before. If you are fully disengaged at the bottom or at the floor, then the master cylinder rod needs to be adjusted out.
In the end, you need play at the start of the pedal's travel...meaning there should be play before the clutch even disengages...and you should be fully disengaged "way" before you hit the floor.

Everyone sees this in their own way, but that is the bottom line for an aftermarket or stock clutch.

 

Thanks for the help. It disengages about 1/4 of the way from the top, maybe a little less. Guess I have a little work to do tonight.

 

So, does that mean that it's fully disengaged at the floor (pedal)?

 

It is disengaged at the floor... it disengages about 1/4 of the way down from when you first press the pedal.

 

Well, what I mean is...do you have to push the clutch pedal all the way to the floor before it is fully disengaged?
It seems that way if it doesn't start to disengage until about 1/4 of the way down....but then again, my 1/4 may be different than your 1/4, lol.
Here's how mine is...I press the pedal and there's about 1/2" to 1" of play before the clutch (in the tranny) is even moved. I am fully disengaged about the last 1/4 of the way down.
On the way back up (pedal fully depressed to the floor), the clutch doesn't make contact with the flywheel until about a 1/4 (not a 1/4", think of a half of a pie [pie chart] and cut that into quarters) of the pedal travel back up. You don't have to have that much play at the bottom, but the play at the top is what's important.

If you are fully disengaged at the floor, the engagement/disengagement range is too far down and needs to be moved up a little bit. If it's not, your clutch system is not getting the full range that it needs to move fully. Does that make sense?