Ok, so my g/f's '96 AvengerESdied while she was driving tonight, just kaput. No unusual noises, vibration, nothing. I can hear the fuel pump prime and tested for spark (which there isn't), so I'm assuming CPS. I pulled the old one, and there is no paper spacer on it, must've been sheared off or something. My question is, should I be trying to fish it out or would it have fallen out of place and not be a problem with installing the new sensor? Also, is there a way to test the sensor with an ohm meter?

 

Nope, that paper spacer gets sheared off by the crank and it won't hurt anything.
I believe there is a way to check the sensor. I'll have to find it in one of my books first and I'll get back to you.
I does sound like the CPS though.

 

Ok, replaced the CPS to no avail, still cranks but no spark... Is there a way to test the ASD relay? Thinking maybe that's it, hoping not disty or ecu...

 

Ok, figured out the relay and that's not the problem... any way to test the distributor/cam pos. sensor?? Also, the check engine light never came on, only the oil light... Comes on on start up so it's not burned out or anything though.

 

The oil light goes off though, right? It should come on at start up then go off soon after. It's a selftest.
As for testing the Cam/Crank...there really isn't a way to test it without power and cranking. On top of that you'll need an oscilloscope to properly test it. You're looking for a sign wave with a square pattern. It goes up to 5volts and down to .3volts according to Chilton's (Haynes doesn't have this info or is just hard to find). You can check the plugs as you would with any plug, but you're also looking for a working sensor right. Sorry bro.

 

The distributor, no real way to check it either, aside from visual inspection of the points on the cap and condition of the rotor...look for pitting on the contacts.
Also make sure you put the plug wires in it's proper sequence.

 

One thing you can do to "test" the cam position sensor is use an analog voltmeter and check the cycling of the voltage as the car cranks over. Adigital will not work for this because the response time is too slow. The analog meters needle will bounce from just above 0 to 5V as it cycles. Not the most accurate or definitve test but works for those with out a scope and is accurate about 99% of the time.

 

This is true, but he needs the motor to start first, lol.

 

Thanks for the replies guys. As far as the oil light, it never goes off, they all come on for their test on turning of the key, but that's the only one that doesn't turn off immediately after. That's what has me completely lost, don't get why that one if there's no spark... Just figuring because the cylinders aren't firing, but even at that why no check engine light? If I can ever get the distributor cap off I'm going to make sure that's even spinning (I assume it's cam driven)... Probably going to replace the disty tomorrow, so hopefully that's not $250 wasted...

 

Correct me if I'm wrong, but between the .526 and .475 rotor cams, if the entire disty is being replaced, it doesn't matter which I get, correct?