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Driver and Passenger Windows

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Old 08-03-2007, 12:17 AM
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Default Driver and Passenger Windows

I have been experiencing a lot of rattling with my front driver and passenger side windows. If the window is down a snitch and you go over a bump you can hear it. I took off the door panels and tried to tighten any screws or bolts that looked like they were pressing the window. But, that did absolutely nothing. Do you think that I might need to get new pads to hold the window in place? When the window is up all of the way and my door is shut it doesn't seal properly to the car. I can tell this because when it rains or I wash my car there is water that runs down the inside of the window only from the side of the window. What should I do?
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Old 08-03-2007, 02:12 AM
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Default RE: Driver and Passenger Windows

Window rattle fix (2G) [/align] [hr] The following is by DSMtalk.com Community Member 16g-95GSX

Fix the 2G window rattle

As almost all 2g owners know, when your windows are down and you shut the doors, it sounds as if they are about to fall apart. It's enough to make you cringe when you hear it. What most DSMers don't seem to realize, is just how easy it is to fix this problem! This article shows you exactly how with pictures for each step.



Thanks to a few other DSMers I was able to fix my rattle for free and with little effort. While I was at it, I went ahead and took some pictures to show you guys, so here goes:

Items you will need:

1) 10mm shallow socket
2) socket wrench
3) vise grips or other clamping device
4) phillips head screwdriver
5) flat head screwdriver

First thing, roll your window down about 3/4's of the way like shown here in this picture:


Next you are going to have to remove the stock door panel. The panel is held on by about 6 screws total, and a few plastic clips. Most of the screws are located underneath tiny plastic caps that are camouflaged with the door panel itself. To take these caps off, just get a very thin tipped flat-head screwdriver and then pry them off.


(Pry all of these caps off)

Remove all of the screws underneath and then proceed on to the inner door handle, removing both the screw behind the handle itself, and the one below the cap in the cupped portion of the door.


(Pry the cap off, and remove the screw in the cup portion of the door)

Once those are removed, slide the plastic piece behind the door handle toward the front of the car, and then remove it.


(Remove the screw behind the handle, and then slide the plastic trim piece towards the front of the car and remove it)

Now you can remove the actual door panel itself. Just pull it with your hand, starting in one of the top corners of it, and slowly working your way around the door, until it pops right off. Now disconnect the wiring harness that connects to the door switches, by pressing in on the tab and pulling outwards.
Careful as this harness for some reason sometimes is a pain to get out, and also the dsm switch panel is very delicate and you can easily break the plastic where the screws connect to the door panel itself, causing your switches to actually fall out of the door panel, which isn't a good thing if you've experienced it. So be gentle, but remove the harness. Once you have done this then set the door panel aside where it won't get damaged.

Now that that is off, remove the 4 screws holding in the black plastic trim around your speaker. You could remove the speaker's screws, but you might as well just remove the black trim screws instead and give yourself much more room to work with.


(Remove the screws around the black trim piece)

Pull the speaker out, and set it on top of something, so that it isnt just simply hanging there from the door. I used a good old aristocrat box to set it on top of .


(A nice big hole)

Now that that is done, look inside the hole towards the front of the car, and there you will see a brass colored bracket connected to the window. This is the source of all your dreaded rattle. The plastic clips on this bracket slowly expand over time, allowing the window to begin rattling. Reach in through this hole with a socket wrench and 10mm shallow socket, and remove the one nut holding the bracket on. Carefully pull the bracket out, making sure not to get any grease on the actual window itself.


(Remove this one 10mm nut and carefully slide the bracket out)

Here it is, the stupid plastic clip.


Take a nice set of vise grips or thick pliers and just clamp it down
some so that the plastic is closer together. That is it. Task complete!


(Clamp this plastic so it looks like this)

Now there has also been some talk about adjusting the felt pads that cushion the window up top. Your pads aren't necessarily off, but if you wish to attempt to adjust them then they are located at the top of the door. They will have allen wrench holes, as well as 10mm nuts surrounding them. Play with them if you wish, but I found mine to not need any adjustment at all.

Screw back in the speaker, plug back in the wiring harness to the door panel, install the door panel being sure to have every plastic clip correctly snap into place, reinstall the door handle piece, and re-screw in all the screws that held the door in, and you are done. Go ahead and test her out, I assure you she will be 10x better and you will be extremely satisfied with the results, as it literally takes 5 minutes if you know what you are doing before you start. Good Luck!

BONUS:
**In addition to this, while your door panels are off, you may want to do yourself a favor and pick up a can of "Great Stuff" expanding foam from Lowe's or Home Depot. This stuff costs about $5 a can, and it will make your panels in your car solid as an absolute rock. Spray a hefty amount on the back of your door panel, in all the cracks, making sure to hit all the areas that creak really bad. Do not spray too much as it will expand as it dries, but apply a good amount, covering the door all over on the back side.
I did this trick to my door panel, at the same time as doing this window rattle fix, and dear lord I have to say my doors are honestly 100x better, as even the door panel itself is solid as a rock, and there will be absolutely no rattle coming from your speakers etc. You can try this trick to all your other plastic panels in the car such as the hatch panels etc.
It works wonders, and an entire can weighs in at only 1lb so there is almost no detrimental weight added to the car, and when done you won't even know it is in there when the panels are on. This will make your car virtually rattle proof for almost no cost, and little weight added. Just be sure to wear latex gloves when applying this stuff as it WILL NOT COME OFF OF YOUR HANDS , and I found out the hard way.
Let the foam cure, and then put the panels back on. Do not apply too much foam on the area that the door handle rods will be as they will rub against it and make an irritating squeeking noise.**
 
  #3  
Old 08-03-2007, 02:13 AM
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Default RE: Driver and Passenger Windows

...but, I don't recommend pinching the triangle piece to tighten the white plastic piece because that plastic piece is what slides on the metal rail that goes up/down the door. Pinch that piece and the window will go up/down slower than it already does.
The biggest "rattler" on that part is the little oddball nut that holds it on the glass. I suggested using thread lock to keep it from backing out....that is what causes the rattle. That is what rattles on the glass, metal to glass rattle, not plastic to metal. Well, it does but it's barely noticeable and not obnoxious.
 
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Old 08-03-2007, 12:43 PM
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Default RE: Driver and Passenger Windows

Thanks! I just tried that and it helped the rattling out a lot. But, My windows are still loose. They don't seal properly up against the weatherstripping. Anybody know a fix to this?
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Old 08-03-2007, 02:05 PM
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Default RE: Driver and Passenger Windows

Likely you have been closing the doors by the window a BIG no no ... You might have bent/damaged the window regulator , or need to tighten things up a bit more
 
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Old 08-03-2007, 06:04 PM
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Default RE: Driver and Passenger Windows

speaking about window and regulators my passenger window just took a big poop and stoped working. i can pull my window up with my hands and just push it down? i think the regulator is bad and wanna put a new one in i have had so many problems trying to align that dang window so ima just bust it out put in a regulator and window. question is, how do i take the regulator out? am i in for a headache? any help would be apprechiative.
 
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Old 08-03-2007, 06:50 PM
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Default RE: Driver and Passenger Windows

I never close the doors by the window...that was the previous owner. Well, does anybody know where I may be able to find a new regulators?

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Old 08-03-2007, 07:19 PM
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Default RE: Driver and Passenger Windows

ORIGINAL: tehmenace

I never close the doors by the window...that was the previous owner. Well, does anybody know where I may be able to find a new regulators?

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When you removed the door panel, there are 2 or 3 felt covered pieces of metal that can be adjusted using sockets. Those are used to help seat the top of the window into the groove of the weather stripping.
If your window is still loose, take the door panel back off and tighten down all the nuts/bolts that hold the window onto its frame. Just go in there and tighten all the bolts you can find, it probably needs to be anyhow
 
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Old 08-03-2007, 07:27 PM
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Default RE: Driver and Passenger Windows

Joe, does the motor still work in there? Can you hear it humming when you press up or down?
 
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Old 08-05-2007, 11:26 AM
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Default RE: Driver and Passenger Windows

yea the motor is working but before it stoped going up and down it was real slow like it was about to crap out on me. and i just can not get the stupid window lined up at all i have tried and tried and it just makes me more mad so i stp lol. but yea the motros is turning but the window dont move. i think it may be bent the previous owner had some bad kids and i saw them always shut the door by the window so i think they messed it up....


Joe
 


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