Drivers Rear Shocks...
#1
01-01-2009, 09:29 PM
Join Date: Feb 2008
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#2
01-01-2009, 09:48 PM
Ok, I'm going to post this information in hopes that it will help someone like me when they attempt to do this for the first time. 1-4 are general tips on how to compress a spring. 5-9 are general tips on removing/ installing the assembly. Getting this imformation out of people was amost impossible so i thought i would share it with eveyone so that this will be easier for the next guy.
Below is a list of important things that must be done when putting together the spring/shock assembly.
1. Put spring compressors on the spring in a manor where the they are on there as far as the tool will adjust out.
2. Put the hex end of the screw towards the bottom of the spring where it connects to the shock. If you don't you won't be able to turn the hex pattern latter on because it will get to close to the spring.
3. It is very important to tighten them evenly if you don't the clamps will slip and you will have to start over and may even hurt yourself.
4. Remember to pull up on the rod of the shock; it tends to slip down as you are assembling things.
5. Make sure you align the upper bolts with the slot on the shock.
6. When you uninstall the original assembly take note of how everything went together. You will have to put it back in this order. There's like 7 pieces.
7. Only on the passenger side do you need to remove the stabilizer link. If you take this side apart first it is very easy to maneuver the other side out of the way. You have to do the passenger side first because they nut that holds in the shock can not come out on the passenger side until the link nut is removed. Thes can be a PIA if you don't have the type with the hex in the end of the nut you need to use needle nose vice grips to clamp on threaded rod in an attempt to hold it in place. Or used a nut buster to destory the nut, or cut it off. I was able to use the vice grip method.
8. You need lots of PB blaster or comparable form of penetrating lube/catalyst. I applied this probably 10 times over three days. Larger tools are a must for this project. 1/2 inch drive and what not.
9. Please torque everything to spec. These are very crutial part of your car and major damage can occure if a bolt fails during use. I have to replace the lower bolts on the bottom of the fork. They were old and rusted and will not hold the toque specs.
10. Use these tips in conjunction with Corbins write up and this is a fairly process to perform. http://www.2gnt.com/www/corbin/struts.html
Since this is for the eclipse you have to lower the rear seat and remove the side seats and remove the plastic to access the top of the struts
Below is a list of important things that must be done when putting together the spring/shock assembly.
1. Put spring compressors on the spring in a manor where the they are on there as far as the tool will adjust out.
2. Put the hex end of the screw towards the bottom of the spring where it connects to the shock. If you don't you won't be able to turn the hex pattern latter on because it will get to close to the spring.
3. It is very important to tighten them evenly if you don't the clamps will slip and you will have to start over and may even hurt yourself.
4. Remember to pull up on the rod of the shock; it tends to slip down as you are assembling things.
5. Make sure you align the upper bolts with the slot on the shock.
6. When you uninstall the original assembly take note of how everything went together. You will have to put it back in this order. There's like 7 pieces.
7. Only on the passenger side do you need to remove the stabilizer link. If you take this side apart first it is very easy to maneuver the other side out of the way. You have to do the passenger side first because they nut that holds in the shock can not come out on the passenger side until the link nut is removed. Thes can be a PIA if you don't have the type with the hex in the end of the nut you need to use needle nose vice grips to clamp on threaded rod in an attempt to hold it in place. Or used a nut buster to destory the nut, or cut it off. I was able to use the vice grip method.
8. You need lots of PB blaster or comparable form of penetrating lube/catalyst. I applied this probably 10 times over three days. Larger tools are a must for this project. 1/2 inch drive and what not.
9. Please torque everything to spec. These are very crutial part of your car and major damage can occure if a bolt fails during use. I have to replace the lower bolts on the bottom of the fork. They were old and rusted and will not hold the toque specs.
10. Use these tips in conjunction with Corbins write up and this is a fairly process to perform. http://www.2gnt.com/www/corbin/struts.html
Since this is for the eclipse you have to lower the rear seat and remove the side seats and remove the plastic to access the top of the struts
