Check Engine Light, yup. Whenever you get a chance can you do the "keydance" to see if you can pull any codes out of the computer. I'll put a how to for the keydance at the bottom.
Ok, so the stuttering doesn't turn off the car for that split second right, only hesitates mechanically? Ok, I just saw your last post and it seems that your car is just falling down further as the time passes, lol. So, you have fuel but do you have spark? Does the car go back up in RPMs if you hold the pedal down for a bit?

Do this before we go any further.

Do the keydance and try and pull up a CEL code....
From the off position turn the key to the on position without starting the car, do this 3 times and on the third time leave it in the on position. Next WATCH you Check Engine Light, it will blink from 1-9 which is the first digit and again 1-9 for the second digit...take that number down. Then it will blink another set of numbers just like before and take that number down also. Pay attention to the sets of numbers. It may be easier just to jot numbers down first and then sort them out later.

 

Well now it will barely idle at all I can give it a little gas to rev it up but more then a millimeter on the pedal stalls it out. I have the big dealership computer scanner thing my brother brought from his dealer ship. It says all sensors are working fine except the MAP is readding +28# at idle and only ever drops to about +16#, if i disconnect the sensor while it's running it goes to +32#. I hooked up a mechanical vaccume gage and it reads -17# idle and drops to around 0# when I open the throttle blade, like it should. Should I try replacing this sensor? What gets me is why the computer defaults to +32# when the sensor is disconnected. I don't know, is there anyone in the NE Ohio area that can lend there computer for a day for me to test out. thanks, puTTs

 

Hey Putt's, here's some more items that were replaced due to no start/bad idle issues.
you could be having bad spark, another thing are the plugs and wires. Pull one out and inspect them.
Another thing is check your grounds and make sure that there aren't any corrosion on them. Check the upstream o2's. EGR system and it's electrical connector.

 

I've tried two new distributors. New cap and rotor, wires and plugs are all new. Tried a new crank position sensor. New fuel pump and regulator. I've checked the mechanical timing to make sure it didn't jump. The computer is not throwing any codes. I've even hooked up a dealership diagnostics machine that tells you everything about everything and even it says things are working normal. The car has a very ruff Idle now and any gas I try to give it it just dies. I'm guessing the computer or the ignition box. The car started with just a few stutters on the high way and got worse and worse, till where it's at now. I've checked all connectors and the wiring harnesses, none are broken and even checked the resistance across some for the map sensor, throttle position, and crank position just to make sure the wires weren't broke internally. I really like to have this car back and running, even though it has almost 180,000miles it ran perfect and mechanically the car is perfect shape, just a few scuffs and dings on the paint. Thanks, puTTs