RTV...that could be the culprit. If it isn't allowed to cure enough to a point, they can be and usually get squeezed out and then cause a clog down the line. I didn't use anything for my sensors because I was afraid of the RTV getting into the tiny openings and it may create a bad ground for the sensor.
I don't think I would use RTV there since there's already a gasket. RTV can be trouble sometimes. I don't usually use RTV unless there's uneven or raised areas like on some valve covers. I've had better luck without RTV on flat surfaces.

 

Hey John,

Well it's now early Saturday evening and here's my continuing saga......
Started to work on the "car" this morning.
I pulled the bracket off and there were gaps in the RTV underneath the gasket and the gasket was ripped in 2 places.
I was thinking this is great! This has to be the problem.
Guess what.... I put a new gasket on and still have the same results.

While I had the bracket off I did remove the sending unit and checked to see if there was any "goop" on it. Everything looked ok for both the switch and the sending unit.
I cleaned the contacts and double checked the connectors to make sure there weren't any broken,frayed wires,etc.

I put everything back together and took the "car" for a ride. Again, when I got up around 65-75mph the gauge would go past the 1/2 way mark towards the first mark @ the HIGH end.

Any speed up to 60-65mph the gauge stays @ 1/2 or a hair past.

I looked in the Haynes manual and saw that at idle the pressure is to be 11.4psi minimum.
It doesn't show any other settings for the coupe.
The convertable has an idle pressure and another pressure @ 3000rpm. (pressure is 35 to 72psi for the 3000 rpm)
What is the difference between the convertable and the coupe? If the convertable has a range that big @ 3000 rpm does it make sense that this gauge is fluctuating?

I did not put a gauge on it to see if I had 11psi. The gauge came up a little when the car is at idle so I figured that there has to be something there.
It seems that everything I find to help troubleshoot this problem is for low or no oil pressure. I can't find anything about high pressure.

I don't think that there is a problem with the gauge. I did pull the wire off the switch (not the sending unit) and started the car. I figured that the light should have come on but it didn't. everything was "normal".

I was going to "test" the sending unit wiring and unit but the engine was too hot and my sis-in-law had to get going.
(I saw a post about being able to ground the connector to check the gauge.)

So....................... I guess my next step is to change the sending unit??? Does this sound like the logical choice?
There is a common grounding point where these sensors go. There is a boot over them. I know that oil had to get under there.
I was thinking of lifting the boot and spraying with Brakeclean or something else to remove the oil.

Again, I'm willing to listen to any and all suggestions.

 

Ok John,
While you had the bracket off, did you happen to notice how deep the sensors protruded into the oil chamber, any obstructions in any of the openings or chambers? Perhaps noticed if the gasket lined up exactly with the openings and so on..?

I forgot to ask...how long was your in-law driving without oil, are there any odd noises coming from the motor, did you notice any metal shavings in the oil now or before? There's more questions, I'm sure, but I can't think of more at the moment, lol. I would hate for you to be chasing ghosts.
Since the car ran to near zero on oil, sludge could have been knocked loose and found it's way into an opening and partially blocked it. I think it's just sludge somewhere that just needs to be flushed from it's current location(s). Maybe try synthetic oil if you're not already using it. I started using synthetic oil at around 75K. You will notice a slight decrease in oil pressure, or at least I did.
I'm going to bring in some others on this issue and see what else can be looked at or done. In the mean time, you seem to have a grasp on what needs to be done, so I'm not too worried about you doing anything....bad.
I'll try to grab some of our techs into this.

 

One thing to remember here, stock oil pressure gauges in modern vehicles (with electronic dashes) are NOT very accurate. The one in my Ram reads about 20psi LOWER than it actually is. The BEST way to measure oil pressure is a mechanical gauge. It would defintiely be a good idea to check it with a mechanical gauge. They usually screw in place of the electrical sending unit for testing purposes...or permanent purposes if you buy a regular gauge (like Autometer) and install it in your cabin (with the use of an isolator of course).

Another culprit could be the oil pressure relief valve/spring. I'm unfamiliar with the 2.5 though, so i don't know if it's accessable from outside the motor (like on my V10) or if you have to pull the pan off to get at it.

EDIT: Judging by this kit: http://www.monicattichrysler.com/com...&idProduct=208 it's probably accessible from outside the motor.