A few Quick Questions
#1
A few Quick Questions
Whats up guys, um i got a few qucik questions,
1) How Do you clear out the amber parking lights and paint the inserts
2) I saw that silver coupe lowered it, how to do that and how much will it cost me
And any tips i can use on painting my rims, what i need ETC...
and with the trunk mod how much will the whole thing ost me..
THANKS GUYS
1) How Do you clear out the amber parking lights and paint the inserts
2) I saw that silver coupe lowered it, how to do that and how much will it cost me
And any tips i can use on painting my rims, what i need ETC...
and with the trunk mod how much will the whole thing ost me..
THANKS GUYS
#2
RE: A few Quick Questions
Hey Frank,
You have to remove the headlight from the car........
To remove the headlights from the car....
I have a pdf for this made by Iain but I can't upload the pdf.
.....next, unclip the 6(?) metal clips, remove the bulbs, preheat your oven for 250 degrees, and then put the headlight (one at a time) for 5-7 minutes. The housing will obviously be hot, so be careful. You will have to pry the two halves apart and try not to disturb the gray silicone type sealant too much because you can reuse it. Then you need hex wrenches to take out the housing around the amber reflector. Once you've done this repeat for the other headlight.
While you have it apart, the black housing can be painted at this time to whatever color you'd like. First sand the housing down a bit so the paint has something to stick to, then prime (some argue that this process isn't needed, but I always use primer so that I won't have to go back and do it again in a year or so) so that the paint doesn't start to bubble later. I would recommend some high temp paint or paint that can withstand at least a possible 200 degrees or so. That being said, most can withstand that and more, so no worries with that really, just don't get the really cheap paint..those won't last. Follow paint procedures on the can. Once you're done go to the next step below.
For the sealant, you can also use Home Depot silicone to make sure that water won't drip into the headlight before you put it back together.
Put the headlight back together by putting the Chrome reflective part back into the front half, push the two halves back together while installing the metal clips and put it back into the oven for 5-7 minutes, this spreads the sealant and lessens the strain on the clips at the same time...and you're done.
You have to remove the headlight from the car........
To remove the headlights from the car....
Safety First
1) Put vehicle in park/neutral and apply parking brake.
2) Block wheels
3) Disconnect Negative(Black) cable from the battery.
Note: when working on the drivers side, it’s sometimes
easier if you remove the stock airbox first. Although it’s
still tight because of the fuse block.
5) Remove the 2
bolts at the rear of
the headlight and
the 1 on top.
(Note: All bolts in
this job are 10mm)
Note: As some of you may have noticed, this headlight has been damaged in a previous accident.
The 2 brass inserts for the mounting bolts are missing and there is duct tape holding the alignment
window closed as well as covering another crack in the case. The tape was temporary fix to
keep water out of the headlight.
Avenger/Sebring Coupe Headlight Removal 101
(This is from a ‘95 Avenger although it should apply to all years)
4) Disconnect the 2 plugs
from the rear of headlight
assembly. (Rotate
marker light assembly 90
degrees counter clockwise
to remove.) The
marker light can sometimes
be very hard to
turn. If after breaking it
loose you find you still
can’t remove the socket,
just turn it back and then
loosen it again. The force
of breaking it loose can
cause it to jam.
Page 1
6) On the front fascia, remove the
2 bolts on the side you are working
and loosen the center one.
7) On the fender, remove the
front 3 bolts.
8) Use something, like a block of wood
about an inch thick, to raise the fender
away from the headlight.
You can wiggle the light out without doing
this, but be prepared to put some
deep scratches in the lens. See the picture
below.
Page 2
Avenger/Sebring Coupe Headlight Removal 101
(This is from a ‘95 Avenger although it should apply to all years)
9) Now your ready to remove the light.
Pull the assembly a little forward and
then tip the back down and the front up.
The bottom lip of the light needs to
come up above the fascia and then by
rotating the light slightly, it should just
slide right out.
If your concerned about scratching your
paint, then mask off all the painted surfaces
with low tack painters masking
tape first.
10) When it comes time to reinstall your
new or repaired headlight, you might want
to use a small cloth to cover the point of the
fender. This will eliminate the danger of
scratching the lens as you install the light.
If you were wondering, this new light was in
almost as bad shape as the original. All I
did was give it a quick wet sand with 2000
grit paper and then polish with McGuires
Plastic Polish. It looks 100% better, though
not perfect. Watch for my How-To on Headlight
Restoration coming in the future
11) Reinstall the 3 bolts holding the headlight and reconnect the wires. Don’t forget the marker
light.
12) Reconnect the battery and check the operation of the light.
13) Install and tighten the bolts on the front fascia.
14) Install the 3 bolts on the fender but do not tighten, leave the fender just loose enough to move.
You will need to gently close the hood and
check the fender to hood gap and adjust the
fender before tightening the fender bolts.
I hope this has been helpful to you. If you have any questions, comments, corrections or additional
information that you think should be included here, please email them to me at :
WesternAvenger@shaw.ca
Regards, Iain Page 3
Avenger/Sebring Coupe Headlight Removal 101
(This is from a ‘95 Avenger although it should apply to all years)
1) Put vehicle in park/neutral and apply parking brake.
2) Block wheels
3) Disconnect Negative(Black) cable from the battery.
Note: when working on the drivers side, it’s sometimes
easier if you remove the stock airbox first. Although it’s
still tight because of the fuse block.
5) Remove the 2
bolts at the rear of
the headlight and
the 1 on top.
(Note: All bolts in
this job are 10mm)
Note: As some of you may have noticed, this headlight has been damaged in a previous accident.
The 2 brass inserts for the mounting bolts are missing and there is duct tape holding the alignment
window closed as well as covering another crack in the case. The tape was temporary fix to
keep water out of the headlight.
Avenger/Sebring Coupe Headlight Removal 101
(This is from a ‘95 Avenger although it should apply to all years)
4) Disconnect the 2 plugs
from the rear of headlight
assembly. (Rotate
marker light assembly 90
degrees counter clockwise
to remove.) The
marker light can sometimes
be very hard to
turn. If after breaking it
loose you find you still
can’t remove the socket,
just turn it back and then
loosen it again. The force
of breaking it loose can
cause it to jam.
Page 1
6) On the front fascia, remove the
2 bolts on the side you are working
and loosen the center one.
7) On the fender, remove the
front 3 bolts.
8) Use something, like a block of wood
about an inch thick, to raise the fender
away from the headlight.
You can wiggle the light out without doing
this, but be prepared to put some
deep scratches in the lens. See the picture
below.
Page 2
Avenger/Sebring Coupe Headlight Removal 101
(This is from a ‘95 Avenger although it should apply to all years)
9) Now your ready to remove the light.
Pull the assembly a little forward and
then tip the back down and the front up.
The bottom lip of the light needs to
come up above the fascia and then by
rotating the light slightly, it should just
slide right out.
If your concerned about scratching your
paint, then mask off all the painted surfaces
with low tack painters masking
tape first.
10) When it comes time to reinstall your
new or repaired headlight, you might want
to use a small cloth to cover the point of the
fender. This will eliminate the danger of
scratching the lens as you install the light.
If you were wondering, this new light was in
almost as bad shape as the original. All I
did was give it a quick wet sand with 2000
grit paper and then polish with McGuires
Plastic Polish. It looks 100% better, though
not perfect. Watch for my How-To on Headlight
Restoration coming in the future
11) Reinstall the 3 bolts holding the headlight and reconnect the wires. Don’t forget the marker
light.
12) Reconnect the battery and check the operation of the light.
13) Install and tighten the bolts on the front fascia.
14) Install the 3 bolts on the fender but do not tighten, leave the fender just loose enough to move.
You will need to gently close the hood and
check the fender to hood gap and adjust the
fender before tightening the fender bolts.
I hope this has been helpful to you. If you have any questions, comments, corrections or additional
information that you think should be included here, please email them to me at :
WesternAvenger@shaw.ca
Regards, Iain Page 3
Avenger/Sebring Coupe Headlight Removal 101
(This is from a ‘95 Avenger although it should apply to all years)
.....next, unclip the 6(?) metal clips, remove the bulbs, preheat your oven for 250 degrees, and then put the headlight (one at a time) for 5-7 minutes. The housing will obviously be hot, so be careful. You will have to pry the two halves apart and try not to disturb the gray silicone type sealant too much because you can reuse it. Then you need hex wrenches to take out the housing around the amber reflector. Once you've done this repeat for the other headlight.
While you have it apart, the black housing can be painted at this time to whatever color you'd like. First sand the housing down a bit so the paint has something to stick to, then prime (some argue that this process isn't needed, but I always use primer so that I won't have to go back and do it again in a year or so) so that the paint doesn't start to bubble later. I would recommend some high temp paint or paint that can withstand at least a possible 200 degrees or so. That being said, most can withstand that and more, so no worries with that really, just don't get the really cheap paint..those won't last. Follow paint procedures on the can. Once you're done go to the next step below.
For the sealant, you can also use Home Depot silicone to make sure that water won't drip into the headlight before you put it back together.
Put the headlight back together by putting the Chrome reflective part back into the front half, push the two halves back together while installing the metal clips and put it back into the oven for 5-7 minutes, this spreads the sealant and lessens the strain on the clips at the same time...and you're done.
#3
RE: A few Quick Questions
Lowering your car will cost....whatever the total of the shocks and springs/coilovers will be + you may or may not need a camber kit for the front and back + the cost of an alignment. I'd say it would cost you around....~$700, which is just a rough estimate and assuming that you go and find the shocks and springs on eBay. I just did a quote for some DSMers and KYB AGX shocks + Eibach lowering springs = ~$550 from eBay. So shop wisely.
As for painting the wheels...you will have to strip the old stuff first and sand it down a bit. Here's a link on how to do that... http://www.vfaq.com/mods/wayback/wheel_finishing.html
Use whatever kind of wheel paint color you prefer instead of the silver/gray that was used in the link and you're done. Autozone also has wheel/rim paint and so does Walmart. It's labeled accordingly
As for painting the wheels...you will have to strip the old stuff first and sand it down a bit. Here's a link on how to do that... http://www.vfaq.com/mods/wayback/wheel_finishing.html
Use whatever kind of wheel paint color you prefer instead of the silver/gray that was used in the link and you're done. Autozone also has wheel/rim paint and so does Walmart. It's labeled accordingly