HELP engine codes have me confussed
Here's the link to the video Joe was talking about http://myweb.unomaha.edu/~nkhvan/123.mov
Enjoy!
Enjoy!
Ok so i just got back from autozone and they testedmy battery and alt and i watched everything they are both running great nothing at all wrong with them he said amps where way up there around 70 or so and volts were up and down too 11.4 too 13.0 something now i dont know what it could be.. pcm is prolly the only thing left?? maybe dont know here
thanx guys
Joe
thanx guys
Joe
Sorry Josef, family day yesterday and I was just too tired to have been coherent, lol. I would have to say that the PCM is the last thing on the list. If everything was checked out and they are good, that is. The voltage should not have been varying that much. If the charging system was on key, but the motor was having issues with idle, the voltage will still stay level with small movements of about 1 volt + or - on a good charging system. 12 volts is the lowest that I have found that sensors will all work correctly, at or around 12.5-11 volts, the car will have sensor issues, and any lower than 11 volts and the car may stall out (if you go to 9volts, it will stall at a stop).
Bottom line is that the voltage shouldn't be varying that much and if it is it's stating that the battery needs to be charged which leads to higher than 70 amps (if you have power windows, locks, a/c, sunroof, blah..blah). A low charged battery will take every bit of amperage that the alternator will put out and I think that it's 120 amps for you alternator (there's two that we have, but the higher trim Avengers will get the higher output alternator).
Before you start looking for a new or used PCM, charge you battery overnight.
Once it has a full charge, try running your car again. If it runs like normal, for a bit, then starts to act up again...it's your PCM not allowing the alternator to charge, giving your car a low power input. Make sure to take note of the voltage before the charge and then after, just to be sure.
Bottom line is that the voltage shouldn't be varying that much and if it is it's stating that the battery needs to be charged which leads to higher than 70 amps (if you have power windows, locks, a/c, sunroof, blah..blah). A low charged battery will take every bit of amperage that the alternator will put out and I think that it's 120 amps for you alternator (there's two that we have, but the higher trim Avengers will get the higher output alternator).
Before you start looking for a new or used PCM, charge you battery overnight.
Once it has a full charge, try running your car again. If it runs like normal, for a bit, then starts to act up again...it's your PCM not allowing the alternator to charge, giving your car a low power input. Make sure to take note of the voltage before the charge and then after, just to be sure.
I forgot to mention that power taken from the inside of the cabin differs from power taken from the battery directly. Remember that voltage is dropped off at varying devices in the cabin so power in there will be less than power from the battery. I was referring to power inside the cabin (only because my turbo timer has a voltage meter built in).


