upper ball joints
Hey guys,
I was wandering about the upper ball joints in my 95 avenger es i took it in and had the recall checked out they told me that my left upper ball joint was so bad they couldnt check the lowers and told me to have it replaced or pay 400 for them to do it. i was wondering can i buy just the ball joint and put it in the arm or have a napa or something do it for me? wouldnt that be way cheaper?? any input would be great
thanx all
I was wandering about the upper ball joints in my 95 avenger es i took it in and had the recall checked out they told me that my left upper ball joint was so bad they couldnt check the lowers and told me to have it replaced or pay 400 for them to do it. i was wondering can i buy just the ball joint and put it in the arm or have a napa or something do it for me? wouldnt that be way cheaper?? any input would be great
thanx all
I think you can with the upper ball joint the cost around $30 for the lower u have to buy the whole arm with the ball joints already installed in it which is about $160. And there is no recall for the upper just lower. This is from Consumerguide.com:
NHTSA Recall History
1995-00: Rubber boots on lower ball joint can become damaged, allowing dirt and water intrusion, which can cause excessive wear and possible separation.
DO NOT WAIT TILL LAST MINUTE! I did and Im still kicking my self in the butt for it. Ended up costing me close to $700. I litterly rode her till the wheel fell off, the steering wheel and right tire where pointing straight forward but the passenger side tire was cut hard to the right.
NHTSA Recall History
1995-00: Rubber boots on lower ball joint can become damaged, allowing dirt and water intrusion, which can cause excessive wear and possible separation.
DO NOT WAIT TILL LAST MINUTE! I did and Im still kicking my self in the butt for it. Ended up costing me close to $700. I litterly rode her till the wheel fell off, the steering wheel and right tire where pointing straight forward but the passenger side tire was cut hard to the right.
I agree Pappi. That is something I would not wait on.
I found the upper for a 97 but there weren't any changes to the suspension that I'm aware of. The part #s are the same for a 95 also.
The upper control arm costs $151.26 with free shipping to the lower 48.
Autoparts Warehouse upper control arm
You may be able to find it cheaper elsewhere, but these guys are pretty low, their shipping is pretty fast too. You could just get ball joints pressed in, but I don't like to think that they were pressed in by some shop who may not be able to do it correctly, afterall the ball joints are pretty important
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I am paranoid about my car though, so don't mind my paranoid comments, lol, that is just my opinion. If you need to get new ball joints and fast on a budget, then by all means get a replacement ball joint and get it pressed in. I'm sure a lot of folks do that and I probably will too when I get into autox or closed courses
Now, what I don't understand is why they can't look at the boot for any signs of wear and do a torque measurement on the lower ball joint like the way the manual does it. Why do they need to have the upper in tip top shape to check the lower? Did they tell you why?
I found the upper for a 97 but there weren't any changes to the suspension that I'm aware of. The part #s are the same for a 95 also.
The upper control arm costs $151.26 with free shipping to the lower 48.
Autoparts Warehouse upper control arm
You may be able to find it cheaper elsewhere, but these guys are pretty low, their shipping is pretty fast too. You could just get ball joints pressed in, but I don't like to think that they were pressed in by some shop who may not be able to do it correctly, afterall the ball joints are pretty important
.I am paranoid about my car though, so don't mind my paranoid comments, lol, that is just my opinion. If you need to get new ball joints and fast on a budget, then by all means get a replacement ball joint and get it pressed in. I'm sure a lot of folks do that and I probably will too when I get into autox or closed courses

Now, what I don't understand is why they can't look at the boot for any signs of wear and do a torque measurement on the lower ball joint like the way the manual does it. Why do they need to have the upper in tip top shape to check the lower? Did they tell you why?
When I was working on my breaks I noticed a boot that was ripped. I think it was the upper control arm boot, 2 nuts up by the strut in the engine compartment and a nut on the ball joint. Looks kind of like the pics on silver's post. Needed a gear puller to get it off BTW. Anyway I went to the local junkyard and found one on a sebring. It looked good so I pulled it they charged me $25 for it. So you might wanna check a junkyard ... if your into doing the work yourself.
Hey all, thanx for replys..
In reply to silver about why they couldnt check it:: they told me exactly this, He said that both of my tie rods where way bad and my left upper ball joint was shot completly. he said that they had to be in good shape so they could put this thing on the wheel to see if it was in spect or not? i thought they just looked at them and like moved to see how they where doing. n i think they wanted me to pay the quoted 656.00 to have them do my tie rodes upper ball joint and alignment.. i LOL and walked away. thats just not right i know i could do it way cheaper..
So i figuerd i would just buy two new ones and have them pressed in then do my tie rods i can do all that stuff.. and then take it to them and tell them to fix my lowers i know they have to be bad.. but thanx if anyone can give more info on how hard it would be to do this or just any more info please feel free to email me or reply to post..
thanx joe
Oh yea to silver i have a Pcm on order right now hoping thatit fixes my engine will keep posted...
In reply to silver about why they couldnt check it:: they told me exactly this, He said that both of my tie rods where way bad and my left upper ball joint was shot completly. he said that they had to be in good shape so they could put this thing on the wheel to see if it was in spect or not? i thought they just looked at them and like moved to see how they where doing. n i think they wanted me to pay the quoted 656.00 to have them do my tie rodes upper ball joint and alignment.. i LOL and walked away. thats just not right i know i could do it way cheaper..
So i figuerd i would just buy two new ones and have them pressed in then do my tie rods i can do all that stuff.. and then take it to them and tell them to fix my lowers i know they have to be bad.. but thanx if anyone can give more info on how hard it would be to do this or just any more info please feel free to email me or reply to post..
thanx joe
Oh yea to silver i have a Pcm on order right now hoping thatit fixes my engine will keep posted...
Yeah thats sounds bout right @ $89/hr Firestone charged me bout $600 to fix the lower ball joint, replace CV Shaft, alignment, and towing. I'm still madd bout that ever since that I try to avoid Firestone at all cost, they do good work and give you good warranties on the parts Ill give them that. But you said that the guy said that both tie rods were shot that doesn't sound right IMO[>:]. I torn the boot and was riding on the CV shaft alone wand when that broke there was nothing left to pull that tire back in. The best thing you can do is ask around.
Just recently this mechanic tried to tell me that my car would cost $500 for a tune up. I have a check engine light on, she studders during acceleration, and back fires when letting off the throttle in a low gear. Called around got a free dianostics check: Misfire on cylinder 2, let him drive the car told me that prolly need new fuel filter, sparkplugs, wire and/or Air Intake. Said he do all that plus give me a cold air intake for $200. P.S chaged spark wires told me they were still from Factory said Mopar on them LOL!
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Just recently this mechanic tried to tell me that my car would cost $500 for a tune up. I have a check engine light on, she studders during acceleration, and back fires when letting off the throttle in a low gear. Called around got a free dianostics check: Misfire on cylinder 2, let him drive the car told me that prolly need new fuel filter, sparkplugs, wire and/or Air Intake. Said he do all that plus give me a cold air intake for $200. P.S chaged spark wires told me they were still from Factory said Mopar on them LOL!
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