There shouldn't be anything around it to confuse you. It should be the only one connected to the crank.
Check for a PCM too while you're at the yards. Hopefully, you won't need it, but pricing one shouldn't hurt.

 

If you change the crank sensor, donot go to Advance Auto. They gave me the wrong one and I tried 3 stores. They were unable to get the correct one even with the part number. Car Quest sold me one for $79, or $106 atNapa. If you get a pcm from a salvage yard, make sure the numbers match and it will still have to be programmed to the VIN#, unless the97 and 98 are different.

 

Well I'm on my way home this afternoon. I will stop by the yard and pick up the CPS sensor. I do have to ask before I keep on throwing money at this thing. The car was running fine untill my son decided he couldn't wait to change the plugs. Plugs 1,3,5 are under the plenum, so he took the plenum off in order to get to them. When he put it all back together is when the problems started all the way to where we are now. No spark. Is there anything that he could have done (or not done)to cause this? I've had him take it all back apart twice already and look everything over. He found some crossed plug wires and vacuum hosees disconnected, thats about it. Again thanks for the inputs...

 

your son did someting if a sensor went out or something along that line that would be a one in a million shot that it did just at teh same time your son changed the plugs

 

Backtrack his steps with him there, that's what I would do Candela

 

I sat there and had him reverse what he did. Gotta say, kid can get the plenum off in 3 mins flat. He didn't do anything adverse other than reinstalling the egr tube w/o a gasket. Replaced the crank sensor, pcm and the relay to no avail. Took it to a shop and it turns out the TB tensioner wasn't adjusted properly and the TB jumped time. 3 notches. Is this an interference engine?

 

3 minutes, eh, not too shabby.
These are interference motors too
Check the piston heads with a flashlight. Did you hear any knocking or pinging during the drive?

 

The car hasn't been driven. Valve covers were taken off and there are bent valves. How many? I dunno. I'm gonna have the car towed home and we'll figure what's next. I'm debating if we should rebuild this one or try to pick up another. Which is the more cost effective way to go, note, I didn't ask the cheapest. There is another venge in a salvaje yard near my house, that's where I have been cannibalizing parts from, it does have a full motor in it. I appreciate all the responses...

 

Decided to just replace the engine. What engines are either flat out bolt-ons or need lil modding to get em to fit n work. I know several year sebrings with vin "n" have the 2.5 engine, what others? I'd even go 3.0 if necessary.

 

Candela, did you ever get this situated? The original type engine is obviously a good choice as a rebuilt or new one will just drop in. I don't think the 2.5L is a drop in and you would have to get a matching engine harness, instrument cluster, ABS ECU (don't know if the two motors use the same or not), 2.5 ECU, and the TCU. The 2.5L is only an auto also. The 3.0L is pieced together with parts of the 2.5L.