I bought my Dakota with a bad ECU and apparently a few electrical issues (cab light is stuck on.. ignition illumination stuck..) anyways.. I'm trying to get my headlights working. They worked the first time I drove it and not after that (stopped working at the same time the other lights got stuck on).

I did some searching.. where is the "bulkhead" at, and what are some other things I should check out? I don't have a meter available unfortunately.

 

How do know the ECU is bad? When I bought my '95 the stereo had been stolen and the ground strap that connects to the radio wasn't connected to anything. If memory serves, my dash lights didn't work and the interior lights stayed on until I grounded that strap. I could be totally wrong, I just remember something acting wierd but I don't remember exactly what fixed it.

Flick your high beams on and off a couple times. If that doesn't work then try pulling the switch halfway and wiggle it around. If the low beams never come on by doing this you probably just blew both bulbs at the same time (questionable but not impossible). If they do come on then you have a bad switch (I did). It costs either $60 or $90, the switch is part to the lever assembly and you need to replace the whole thing.

Get a $10 meter at Radio Shack and test the switch, then at least you have a meter.

 

I will do that.. thanks for the advice.

I don't *KNOW* the ECU is bad aside from the fact the PO told me, it has BAD written across the side of it.. hah. The PO was a mechanic at some auto shop here, and the truck is very picky with starting. He showed me how to connect a wire to a ground then tap it against the black/white wire beneath the steering wheel and sometimes that gets it to start with the keys.. but a day or two later it stops again. When it is running, sometimes the engine will just shut off while driving.. tapping that wire usually gets it started again and running normally for a few days.

I'll let you know what happens.

edit: Can't manage to figure out how to get the headlamps out -_-

 

Bulkhead is a naval term for a wall within a ship's hull.. In the auto world, it ismostly (not always) used to describe the cab side of the firewall.

In regards to your low beam, dome and insturment illumination problems, I would check your headlamp switch. It is a major player in all three.You can find wiring diagrams here: http://autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/090...rInfoPages.htm

If you have a Harbor Freight store near you, they have an adequate multimeter for under $3: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=90899

What year is your truck? Depending on the year range, many starting/driveability issues can be traced back to a bad splice near the Power Distribution Center. Please read this thread: https://dodgeforum.com/m_501139/tm.htmor search for info on "bad splice".

Regards,
Greg


[IMG]local://upfiles/27279/37BCD1A8249C467981747C605C161130.jpg[/IMG]

 

I have a 1991. I switched the relays out, still started.. so the relays are good.. I can hear the fuel pump click on and stop when I turn the ignition into the on position. I'm having problems FINDING the splice. Do I need to unbolt the power distribution box to get to it (is it UNDER the box?) or is it where the three groups of wires meet in front of the box towards the front?.. I wouldn't even mess with this truck, but the engine bay and components in it are extremely clean, no rust anywhere in it.. ECU looks to have been messed with as some of the wires going into it have exposed metal (but it's all making contact as it should) and it looks to have been opened up and looked at a few times before me. Has BAD in pink marker as a mechanic might do written on it. Spark plug tips are clean as well as the spark plug wires (get spark = yes). All fuses are good.

Not giving any codes as far as the check engine light or anything, there's spark. It's very selective but once it starts, it usually drives fine for 2 or 3 days.

EDIT: Did some searching and found some pics. I was looking in the entirely wrong place. I will check that splice tomorrow morning and update. A related question.. if that IS the problem, can I strip the wires and use butt connectors or do I need to solder them?

I swear, if that turns out to be the entire problem.. and there in fact isn't a bad ECU (I can see where a person could make the confusion)... and you guys save me the $1xx on the new ECU.. I will.. spaz out.

I will update tomorrow. Thanks for all the help everyone.

 

My dad had a 79 Dodge truck that I used to drive, I played drums at the time and never drove the truck without a drumstick. If the truck didn't start, I would pop the hood and tap every electrical connector I could see until it turned over. :-)

I know it doesn't help but I had to say it.

 

hehehe..

I checked the splices, there are two around the firewall (or whatever you wanna call the back of the engine bay) behind the distribution box. Neither had any corrosion at all.. now I've gotta buy some more electrical tape and tape it all back up again.. what do I need to check now?

 

It started today, ran for about 10 seconds (sounded perfectly normal) then just died. Cranked and cranked.. few minutes later, started. Ran long enough for me to turn it around. Died. Started a few minutes later, died. It does like this, then it might run for a while, then it won't run for a few days.

Fuel pump is clearly audible when key is put into on position. Splices are GOOD (aside from the fact I have to rewrap them now). What else should I look at, or should I just assume it is the ECU?

 

Hang in there! What is the status of the headlights? You should probably start a new thread for the shutdown problem, in the meantime check every ground connection you can find. Remove the grounded wire connector and clean the connector and the area where it's attached with a wire brush, then reattach and make sure it's good and secure. Check the plug wire insulation and make sure none of them are able to flop down onto any part to the engine. Check the cap and rotor.

Definitely start a new thread for this, one problem at a time.

 

Back to headlights.

Grounds look great. Truck was one-owner, all work was done by the dealership AFAIK, everything under the hood looks impeccable. Looks to have been babied.. good for me.

Anyways,
Itested for voltage on the headlights for both low and high beams. With high-beams turned on, the connector tests at 12v. Low-Beams turned on, tests 0. So, obviously power isn't getting to the lowbeams. I will be getting to the switch to test for voltage tomorrow sometime.. if this is the right thing to do, let me know.. if there's something else to do.. I'd love to know that too