OK. We are getting to it now. I have jumpered the low pressure cutout switch and the clutch did not engage. When I gave the clutch 12 V directly, there was no foaming in the view glass (indicating sufficient gas) AND the AC worked (i.e. started to make cold). Sorry, but I did not check the pressure, as the meter that I have does not attach to the old fill hose. I am trying to change that so that I can measure the pressure, just in case. The bottom line remains that I don't have power going to the AC clutch and I have a fault code of 33.

I will check the pressure as soon as I can convert the line.

 

Do you have a PCM or are the relays just mounted on the fender wall? If they are in the PCM you could swap out with the starter and a/c relay and see if it'll start to eliminate that relay.

Which diagram are using? Similar to any of these?
This is the one AutoZone says is for 93 models (though it also says it's chassis wiring 1992). It also calls the relay the WOT cutout relay
http://autozone.com/images/cds/gif/l...3d801004d0.gif

This is their 94 diagram (same relay now called A/C compressor clutch relay
http://autozone.com/images/cds/gif/l...3d801004d3.gifand this is the one from the other post about a 94: http://danielbrincat.com/lj/random/dakotaACdiag.gif

They arenot much different than my 89 (except for the electric fan relay on the 4 cylinders):
http://autozone.com/images/cds/gif/l...3d801004c0.gif

Regards,
Greg

 

Sorry, I don't understand the first question: I have a PCM (mounted on the passenger side fender) and a relay/fuse box (mounted on the driver side fender). I have swapped the AC clutch relay with the ASD and fuel pump relays and the car is running, so the clutch relay is good. I think, that I feel that it pulls in when I start the car, but not when I push the AC button (I guess, it's always possible that my switch is toast; I never tested that because it's such a pain to get to).

I've used the first diagram on your list, largely because I don't think that I have a high pressure relay. I guess the AC cycling switch is the one that I am pressing beside the fan to activate the AC (again this could be toast). The reason I started looking for the WOT relay, is because of this diagram (and the fault code), but I think it's safe to say that this is marked on my car as the "AC clutch relay" (and the dealer is wrong). Also where would I find that "fuse link"? That could have blown... (or correct me if I'm wrong).

Another thing that I just remembered. You see the resistor before the AC clutch? I tested that and it seems to be blown. I don't get why there is a resistor there, but at any rate there is no current... Any thoughts on that?

One more thing: it may be related or not (I just saw it on one of the diagrams).My radiator fan is on all the time. I don't have seem to have a relay attached to it, but it was part ofthe diagram.I read some links about this relay not being connected in some cars. What's the deal with that? Should my truck always run the fan, even when the car is cold? Do you think there is a relation here (it doesn't seem to me)?

 

Resistor or diode (?) @ a/c clutch is to kill the massive voltage spike that happens when the compressor clutch shuts off. It is a big electromagnet, so when it is turned off, the collapsing magnetic field induces a big voltage spike in the clutch coil windings - just like an ingition coil.That is bad for stuff in general, so they shunt it off to ground through a diode. Reverse yourohm meter's testleads - if it shows openone way, and shorted the other, it's a diode and itworks. Fusible links are generally located right near the battery, spliced in to the littler of the 2 positive cables - the one withthemain disconnect between it & theharness.