1993 dodge dakota just died lost power
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1993 dodge dakota just died lost power
WHILE DRIVING DOWN THEROAD IT STARTED LOSING POWER LIKE IT WAS RUNNING OUT OF GAS ..AFTER GETTING IT TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD IT WOULDNT RESTART.TOWED IT HOME .TROUBLE SHOOTED SEVERAL THINGS ,NOT GETTING JUICE FROM THE COIL,BUT TRUCK TURNS OVER JUST WONT START changed out coil . took the old coil and put on my other dodge and it cranks great.Also getting clicking on asd and fuel pump relay went turn ign. on . changed the crankshaf position senor too. needhelp. thank chris
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Joined: Dec 2003
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From: Sycamore, Illinois (displaced to Arkansas)
RE: 1993 dodge dakota just died lost power
I had a similar problem with my Dakota (although, lucky for me, it didn't happen while driving, it happened, I'm guessing, upon start-up).
Heres what to do:
Get a helper. Temporarily remove/relocate the distributor cap (there shouldn't really be a need to remove any of the wires, just a few at the most if you do). While looking at the distribtor rotor, have the helper crank the engine, it will only need to be cranked for like half a second. The rotor should move (spin).
If the rotor DOES move, disregard the rest of this post and just post back that the rotor did move
If the rotor DOES NOT move, than remove the distributor. Find a place to relocate the camshaft sensor (I tucked it behind a wire bundle). On the passenger side, there is a 1/2" bolt that holds the distributor in place. It's tricky to remove, and kinda hard to get to thanks to the oil pressure sending unit. After that bolt is removed and the hold-down plate and distributor assembly is removed, look down in there andthere is something else to remove (my grandpa did all the work while I watched, so sorry I can't give a better description). He used a magnet to remove it.
Now, you need to get your friend to crank the engine.(I did this manually, using a socket [forgot the size] and ratchet which goes on the crankshaft damper at the front of the engine, and that's exactly how I would recommend you do it, too). If, when your friend "cranks" the engine, and you don't see anything moving in the hole the distributor once was, your looking at a broken timing chain. Otherwise, if you see stuff moving, something with the distribuor drive is messed up.
To remove/replace the timing chain you have to remove a few things on the front of the motor (temporarily relocate the generator and A/C, remove the water pump, etc. etc). So, if your water pump isn't brand new, since you have to take it off anyways, now is a VERY good time to replace it and ALL of the hoses (heater hoses and the short bypass hose at the top of the water pump included).
Also look into getting a better timing chain (double roller). I'm not going to act like I know whats better about them, but everyone I talked to said to upgrade to one.
Heres what to do:
Get a helper. Temporarily remove/relocate the distributor cap (there shouldn't really be a need to remove any of the wires, just a few at the most if you do). While looking at the distribtor rotor, have the helper crank the engine, it will only need to be cranked for like half a second. The rotor should move (spin).
If the rotor DOES move, disregard the rest of this post and just post back that the rotor did move
If the rotor DOES NOT move, than remove the distributor. Find a place to relocate the camshaft sensor (I tucked it behind a wire bundle). On the passenger side, there is a 1/2" bolt that holds the distributor in place. It's tricky to remove, and kinda hard to get to thanks to the oil pressure sending unit. After that bolt is removed and the hold-down plate and distributor assembly is removed, look down in there andthere is something else to remove (my grandpa did all the work while I watched, so sorry I can't give a better description). He used a magnet to remove it.
Now, you need to get your friend to crank the engine.(I did this manually, using a socket [forgot the size] and ratchet which goes on the crankshaft damper at the front of the engine, and that's exactly how I would recommend you do it, too). If, when your friend "cranks" the engine, and you don't see anything moving in the hole the distributor once was, your looking at a broken timing chain. Otherwise, if you see stuff moving, something with the distribuor drive is messed up.
To remove/replace the timing chain you have to remove a few things on the front of the motor (temporarily relocate the generator and A/C, remove the water pump, etc. etc). So, if your water pump isn't brand new, since you have to take it off anyways, now is a VERY good time to replace it and ALL of the hoses (heater hoses and the short bypass hose at the top of the water pump included).
Also look into getting a better timing chain (double roller). I'm not going to act like I know whats better about them, but everyone I talked to said to upgrade to one.
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 4,119
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From: Sycamore, Illinois (displaced to Arkansas)
RE: 1993 dodge dakota just died lost power
After reading your first post again, I recommend the following:
Disconnect the electrical connector from the coil. Look for bent/missing/corroded terminals. If ok, than connect a multimeterto the terminals, andwhile having a friend crank the engine for just a brief second, test for voltage. Should be getting at least 10.0 volts.
If no voltage is present, or if undervoltage, you will need to test the wires back to the PCM and ASD relay to see if the wiring is bad.
Disconnect the electrical connector from the coil. Look for bent/missing/corroded terminals. If ok, than connect a multimeterto the terminals, andwhile having a friend crank the engine for just a brief second, test for voltage. Should be getting at least 10.0 volts.
If no voltage is present, or if undervoltage, you will need to test the wires back to the PCM and ASD relay to see if the wiring is bad.
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Check out the splice, details are in this thread
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen-dakota-tech/201906-need-some-help-with-asd-relay.html
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen-dakota-tech/201906-need-some-help-with-asd-relay.html
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It is the splice, good way to check is does your check engine light come on when you turn on the key? If check engine light does not come on it is your splice if check engine light comes on it is something else, because the splice supplies power to the computer to turn on check engine light. Just take the box off the fender wall drivers side and take covering off the the wire harness going back towards the fire wall, you will see 3 red wires connect to one, i bet you they are corroded clean them up and put some contact greese on them and a wire nut you should be good. Or you could solder if you have the right stuff and know what you are doing, i just did mine with a wire nut have had no issues since.
