No spark - 93 dakota - no power to coil
#1
No spark - 93 dakota - no power to coil
91993 Dodge Dakota, 3.9L V6
Won't start. Added gas, tried starting on ether. Nothing. Pulled a spark plug.
No spark.I don't think it's getting fuel either, plugs are dry. Changed cap and rotor, as well as rotor pick up plate.
Had coil tested. It's good. Still nothing.
Checked the codes and came up with a 42...Automatic shutdown relay circuit open or shorted. Also showing 33 - AC clutch relay open or shorted.
Swapped ASD relay with other ones, they click when you try and start it, so that's fine.
Tried testing power to the coil, and NADA. Neither contact has any voltage.
Tried looking for corroded wires and everything looks okay. I'm wondering if it's the crankshaft position sensor? What are the symptoms of a bad crank sensor?
Won't start. Added gas, tried starting on ether. Nothing. Pulled a spark plug.
No spark.I don't think it's getting fuel either, plugs are dry. Changed cap and rotor, as well as rotor pick up plate.
Had coil tested. It's good. Still nothing.
Checked the codes and came up with a 42...Automatic shutdown relay circuit open or shorted. Also showing 33 - AC clutch relay open or shorted.
Swapped ASD relay with other ones, they click when you try and start it, so that's fine.
Tried testing power to the coil, and NADA. Neither contact has any voltage.
Tried looking for corroded wires and everything looks okay. I'm wondering if it's the crankshaft position sensor? What are the symptoms of a bad crank sensor?
#2
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Sycamore, Illinois (displaced to Arkansas)
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RE: No spark - 93 dakota - no power to coil
Please go to the following link and follow the basic troubleshooting.
https://dodgeforum.com/m_1280773/tm.htm
Believe me, I had a similar situation. Truck wouldn't start, no spark coming from coil. Coil tested good, and there was voltage going to it (although slightly less than the minimum allowed by the service manual). I had earlier that day bought a new battery ($90) and decided to go ahead and replace the coil ($36). Didn't solve anything, still no spark coming from the new coil as well. $130 down the drain.
In the end, it was the timing chain. Which, when you follow the steps in the above link, will tell you if it is good or bad.
https://dodgeforum.com/m_1280773/tm.htm
Believe me, I had a similar situation. Truck wouldn't start, no spark coming from coil. Coil tested good, and there was voltage going to it (although slightly less than the minimum allowed by the service manual). I had earlier that day bought a new battery ($90) and decided to go ahead and replace the coil ($36). Didn't solve anything, still no spark coming from the new coil as well. $130 down the drain.
In the end, it was the timing chain. Which, when you follow the steps in the above link, will tell you if it is good or bad.
#3
RE: No spark - 93 dakota - no power to coil
Thanks for your help.
There is definitely no voltage going to the coil...we even stripped the wire by the PCM and checked it coming out of the PCM.
The distributer does spin.
I'm going to pull the CKS right now (is that held in by allan bolts?!) and have it checked...and then I guess I'll try replacing the PCM.
There is definitely no voltage going to the coil...we even stripped the wire by the PCM and checked it coming out of the PCM.
The distributer does spin.
I'm going to pull the CKS right now (is that held in by allan bolts?!) and have it checked...and then I guess I'll try replacing the PCM.
#4
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12 means you've had the battery disconnected sometime in the last 50 drive cycles, that's not significant unless you HAVEN'T touched the battery cables.
55 is End Of Codes; again, not significant.
41 is ... a bit more significant, but by itself should not keep it from running. According to the database at http://www.dakota-truck.net/CODES/codes.html , that's "An open or shorted condition detected in the generator field control circuit" . Is your ALT or GEN light lit?
It can also be that you've got a problem in the ASD wiring, since the field is fed off the ASD circuit for 1993 (see the pages I attached here; or reference the wiring in your copy of the factory service manual). I have the alternator wiring diagram, and it shows a splice to the ASD.
*ponders* If it were shorted in the field wiring, then it might keep it from running; but it SHOULD pop the fuse in the PDC if it is.
You can check the continuity from the ASD relay socket to the coil to make sure it's got continuity.
If you have continuity there, and especially if the hot side of the coil is hot while cranking, then the next thing is to see why the ECU isn't sparking. For that, I'd first check the crank sensor. Yes, I know you replaced it; I'd STILL check it via the diagnostic in the factory service manual.
Also, step 0 - check your fuel pressure with a fuel pressure gauge. For 1993, it's supposed to be 49.2 psi +- 5 PSI. (Basically 45 to 55 PSI). If it's too low, you'll get fuel, but not enough to actually run the truck. Yes, it's been replaced. I'd STILL check it ... new stuff has warranties because new stuff is sometimes broke out of the box.
RwP
55 is End Of Codes; again, not significant.
41 is ... a bit more significant, but by itself should not keep it from running. According to the database at http://www.dakota-truck.net/CODES/codes.html , that's "An open or shorted condition detected in the generator field control circuit" . Is your ALT or GEN light lit?
It can also be that you've got a problem in the ASD wiring, since the field is fed off the ASD circuit for 1993 (see the pages I attached here; or reference the wiring in your copy of the factory service manual). I have the alternator wiring diagram, and it shows a splice to the ASD.
*ponders* If it were shorted in the field wiring, then it might keep it from running; but it SHOULD pop the fuse in the PDC if it is.
You can check the continuity from the ASD relay socket to the coil to make sure it's got continuity.
If you have continuity there, and especially if the hot side of the coil is hot while cranking, then the next thing is to see why the ECU isn't sparking. For that, I'd first check the crank sensor. Yes, I know you replaced it; I'd STILL check it via the diagnostic in the factory service manual.
Also, step 0 - check your fuel pressure with a fuel pressure gauge. For 1993, it's supposed to be 49.2 psi +- 5 PSI. (Basically 45 to 55 PSI). If it's too low, you'll get fuel, but not enough to actually run the truck. Yes, it's been replaced. I'd STILL check it ... new stuff has warranties because new stuff is sometimes broke out of the box.
RwP