No control arm bushings
Professional
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 235
Likes: 2
From: Canada
This how-to applies to how I did it on my 1990 but should be the same.
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...-bushings.html
I have yet to drive the truck yet, so I'm not sure if they are noisy like some say.
Last edited by RobertMc; Mar 14, 2014 at 01:32 PM.
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
This how-to applies to how I did it on my 1990 but should be the same.
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...-bushings.html
I have yet to drive the truck yet, so I'm not sure if they are noisy like some say.
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...-bushings.html
I have yet to drive the truck yet, so I'm not sure if they are noisy like some say.
Thank you sir, I guess this is what I'm going to have to do.....PITA! I did see your thread, but was still hoping for a set of bushings to be hidden away somewhere.
Professional
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 235
Likes: 2
From: Canada
Unfortunately lower control bushings for the 4wd 1st Gen Dakota, were only available from Dodge with the control arm itself.
Likely the aftermarket urethane companies simply make what the oem has. Since oem didn't exist, the aftermarket never made them.
Would be easy for them to do it now, but the sales market size is probably too small at this point.
I was gonna call Energy Suspension and prothane and suggest it, but I never did.
Likely the aftermarket urethane companies simply make what the oem has. Since oem didn't exist, the aftermarket never made them.
Would be easy for them to do it now, but the sales market size is probably too small at this point.
I was gonna call Energy Suspension and prothane and suggest it, but I never did.
Professional
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 235
Likes: 2
From: Canada
They would yes. The 95 is the same as the earlier models, with a different cab front.
I suggest measuring length and diameter of the ones you have, and contacting energy suspension to see what will fit, or can be made to fit.
They may have direct fit ones now available.
I suggest measuring length and diameter of the ones you have, and contacting energy suspension to see what will fit, or can be made to fit.
They may have direct fit ones now available.
Last edited by RobertMc; Apr 25, 2020 at 11:12 AM.
Well, I'm just gonna have to not replace the lower bushings. I haven't already pressed them out, nor have I destroyed them, so I don't need them I guess.
I just gotta figure out how I'm gonna fix the fact that the front right shock's lower bolt is broken off into the control arm. The accessable side is broken flush, and the other end (the bolt is fed from the front to the back, the back end is the "other end" here) does have some exposed length. Not enough to securly clamp vise grips onto, however, since I tried. Also, because of the limited space between it and a ridge in the back of the control arm, I can't drill a new hole for an extractor (I already broke off an extractor in the front of the bolt).
I've been wanting to get a welder for a long time. I've been looking at MIG welders. I've kind of narrowed it down to two:
Hobart Handler 187 http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...8799_200328799
Hobart Handler 210 http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...6866_200336866
Any input?
Is my thinking correct that I would weld a piece to the old bolt to perhaps try use that for leverage/to attach tool to?
I just gotta figure out how I'm gonna fix the fact that the front right shock's lower bolt is broken off into the control arm. The accessable side is broken flush, and the other end (the bolt is fed from the front to the back, the back end is the "other end" here) does have some exposed length. Not enough to securly clamp vise grips onto, however, since I tried. Also, because of the limited space between it and a ridge in the back of the control arm, I can't drill a new hole for an extractor (I already broke off an extractor in the front of the bolt).
I've been wanting to get a welder for a long time. I've been looking at MIG welders. I've kind of narrowed it down to two:
Hobart Handler 187 http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...8799_200328799
Hobart Handler 210 http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...6866_200336866
Any input?
Is my thinking correct that I would weld a piece to the old bolt to perhaps try use that for leverage/to attach tool to?
however I did have to acquire a junk yard replacement cause those washouts ain't never worked for me but once and my pilot was damn near complete i.d of threads.
Last edited by Devon Farber; Apr 25, 2020 at 03:51 AM.
Champion
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 4,737
Likes: 374
From: Northwest Louisiana
I believe moog has them. I want to say I have some on a shelf for I too broke my stud and drove a month without.....guess who's looking for Durango torsion bars. This guy. Also moogs had sleaves on them. Unlike energies suspension poly uppers.
however I did have to acquire a junk yard replacement cause those washouts ain't never worked for me but once and my pilot was damn near complete i.d of threads.
however I did have to acquire a junk yard replacement cause those washouts ain't never worked for me but once and my pilot was damn near complete i.d of threads.
RwP
Professional
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 235
Likes: 2
From: Canada
Meltng the rubber bushing portion with a torch IS usually the best option for removal rven if you are not keeping the shells. Some vehicles you can simply push them out, but when outright replacing them, it is faster to melt the rubber and use an air chisel to collapse the shell and push it out.
I avoided the that BS with the dakota upper arm bushings by using the moog ones. I assume they are still available.
I avoided the that BS with the dakota upper arm bushings by using the moog ones. I assume they are still available.
