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cranking up torsion bars?

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Old Mar 18, 2009 | 08:42 PM
  #11  
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From: lapeer Mi
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ya ill probly take my uncle with me he knows alot about that kinda stuff took the dakota for her mud maiden voyage and the rut was a little to deep and 31" mud terrains didnt get r'done bottomed out in the middle of BFE. So im just trying to jack my trucj up a little before sunner so i can have a little more fun.
 
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Old Mar 18, 2009 | 08:58 PM
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I hear that! I'm working on designing 5" drop brackets for my lower control arms to get about 3" of lift out of the front and take the 2" back out of the torsion bars (for a more comfortable ride).
 
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Old Mar 18, 2009 | 09:59 PM
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From: lapeer Mi
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you ever figure anything out let me know whats going on for it and thanks for all the help.
nick
 
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Old Mar 18, 2009 | 11:55 PM
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Originally Posted by 95_318SLT
I hear that! I'm working on designing 5" drop brackets for my lower control arms to get about 3" of lift out of the front and take the 2" back out of the torsion bars (for a more comfortable ride).
details????!!!
oh, and if anyone in you family can fab/weld, this might save you a trip to a junk yard:
http://www.pioneer4wheelers.org/foru...t=3433&page=14

its not done yet, but the builder would have in idea of what to do. im thinking about trying it if i can find a way to lift the front more (cheaply)
 
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Old Mar 19, 2009 | 12:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Blue 12
im thinking about trying it if i can find a way to lift the front more (cheaply)
That's exactly what I'm trying to do, cause my truck is otherwise as high as it can go! The basic design is to drop the lower control arms down 5 inches... seems simple enough, but the upper control arms can't move down, and thats the problem. The only 2 options are to find a longer knuckle that will fit on the truck, or make a spacer (which is what I'm leaning toward at this point). I came up with one potential design that should work, but it will require a milling machine (which I have access to a CNC mill, so thats not a problem). The other problem is the torsion bar mounting crossmember will have to be dropped 5 inches as well or the bars will bow.

Here's a basic list of what all needs to be fabricated:

Drop mounts for the lower control arms
Spacers for the upper ball joints
Drop mounts for the front center section (so you don't kill the CV axles)
Drop mounts for the torsion bar crossmember
The sway bar mounts may also need to be modified, but I havent gotten that far

I basically mimmicked my understanding of the trailmaster suspension lift, which is about $1800, but my plan so far will cost less than $150 in steel.
 

Last edited by 95_318SLT; Mar 19, 2009 at 12:12 AM.
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Old Mar 19, 2009 | 04:57 AM
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why cant the upper control arms be moved?
 
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Old Mar 19, 2009 | 03:20 PM
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I guess technically it could be moved, but that would require A LOT of work. The bump stops are in the way, and just the way the frame is shaped around the upper control arm would make it a PITA.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2009 | 05:14 PM
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i was looking at it today, it does look easier to extend the knuckle up. it doesnt look that bad as far as making brackets ect. do you have any designs in solidworks?

this has some good stuff for ideas:
http://offroadworld.tenmagazines.com...ticle&aid=3479
 
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Old Dec 17, 2009 | 04:36 PM
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somebody want to send me a link for 1990 dakota torsion keys? truck looks nice
 
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Old Dec 17, 2009 | 05:20 PM
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Here is for 91-up. It should work. http://www.totalperformanceonline.co...1321/50/100-14 Check www.ebay.com too.
Also don't be scared to start a new thread instead of pulling up an old one.
 
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