cranking up torsion bars?
The benefit is you can get 2-3 inches of lift in the front for little to no money. The downside to it is that it throws off the front end geometry, so you'll need a front end alignment. But throwing off the geometry also puts more wear on the ball joints. It also makes for a much stiffer ride.
You can get blocks, yes, but this is a better idea if you can get the parts...
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...ut-blocks.html
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...ut-blocks.html
Yes, blocks are easier, but I don't like them because they put a longer moment arm between the center line of the axles and the rear axle mounts (which puts more stress on the ubolts and leads to axle wrap). Using different shackles and shackle mounts is less prone to ever fail and overall safer.
Last edited by 95_318SLT; Mar 18, 2009 at 08:27 PM.
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My guess is if there's a junk yard near you with a 1st gen 2wd dakota, you could get the parts for dirt cheap. Otherwise, they're probably close to even in price, but blocks might be slightly cheaper.
Last edited by 95_318SLT; Mar 18, 2009 at 08:17 PM.
I believe any 1st gen dakota should work, but if you can find a '91-'96 I know they will work. If it's a "pull it yourself" junkyard, make sure you have the tools to cut out the rivets holding the hangers on, and all you should need is the hangers and the shackles.
But like it says in the other post, make sure your pinion angle is within 3 degrees of parallel to the transfer case output shaft (which may require wedges).
But like it says in the other post, make sure your pinion angle is within 3 degrees of parallel to the transfer case output shaft (which may require wedges).



