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I just swapped my truck over to a 5 speed and put a new clutch in it at the same time, and my truck has the same shake to it in reverse. Is this not normal? I just figured that it needed more gas in reverse because reverse is a taller gear than 1st, and it won't shake if you give it enough gas and ride the clutch enough (about 1200-1300 rpm and ride the clutch). Also, any clutch set you buy already comes with new bearings.Originally Posted by gr95dak
It appears that others are giving you good advice. However, pay particular attention to the replacement clutch you will be installing. I replaced mine about 5K miles ago with a well-known aftermarket unit and now the vehicle shakes when reversing. It works OK in all forward gears. Look particularly at the thickness of the clutch disc of your replacement unit. And, while you're at it, you might also think about a new pilot bearing......... Just a few suggestions.
Amateur
When I did the clutch in my 90 Dakota I ended up buying a low profile transmission jack to do it, it made things much easier.
Also, I had to drop the Y-pipe to get the bellhousing out.
The bellhousing was also fun to remove, make sure you have universals for your ratchet, the bolts are tough to get to.
Also, I had to drop the Y-pipe to get the bellhousing out.
The bellhousing was also fun to remove, make sure you have universals for your ratchet, the bolts are tough to get to.
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Also, I had to drop the Y-pipe to get the bellhousing out.
The bellhousing was also fun to remove, make sure you have universals for your ratchet, the bolts are tough to get to.
The bolts can't be easier to get to if you take a minute to remove the inner fender wells (if you have an impact it takes about 30 seconds to remove each one). In fact, everything under the hood is easily accessable if you remove them. I just bought a transmission adapter plate for my jack.Originally Posted by ScottD
When I did the clutch in my 90 Dakota I ended up buying a low profile transmission jack to do it, it made things much easier.Also, I had to drop the Y-pipe to get the bellhousing out.
The bellhousing was also fun to remove, make sure you have universals for your ratchet, the bolts are tough to get to.
yep got everything undone (y did the put the starter way up under there oh well)-waitin right now to get the flywheel turnd -got clutch out and found out there r 2 dif clutches for my yr dakota one is 11in the other is 11 7/8 so returned that one and got the right one -yes all the bolts were a PITA but finally got it all out -so will start agian friday let ya know
found out they no longer make the 11in clutch assembly everyone tells me the 11 7/8's should b ok n e one disagree
Measure the bolt pattern for the new pressure plate, if it is the same as the flywheel it should work. If it's not the same and you can't find the correct clutch, you might need to get a new flywheel, but all that matters is that the pressure plate for the new clutch bolts up correctly.
yea pressure plate bolt pattern is the same as my old one the clutch plate is alil bigger but they both fit
Record Breaker
I have no shake in my truck in reverse. And I can let go of the clutch and give no gas (just let it idle) and it will move back with no problems. Just curious, what brand clutch did you go with Jim? I have been looking around and I see that Napa sells some higher end cluthces, and lower end, and then I see the centerforce clutches being listed for around $300 or so.
i just went to oRiely's and got the clutch from them-cost me about $200 think it was valeo or fecca some thing like that -clutch was bigger than the original one but bolted up perfect-mine is workin great alil motion in the shifter **** but very little-not sure how it was supposed to feel,the old one was so messed up i just got used to it-hav to actually push the clutch all the way to the floor now and comes up right after i lift my foot-i hopin n prayin it is workin correct i know its a hundred times better than the old one