how to remove shackle hanger?
#11
06-18-2009, 10:22 PM
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Good I hope it helps someone. I got the idea from the site, so its only karma that it comes right back here. 
No I used a drill for the holes. Yeah....I could have used the torch but I would have made a mess of it. Also I didnt want to pull the taillight wiring harness....and probably would have cut it in half. I didnt punch all the way through with the torch, only used it to cut enough of the rivet that I could hammer it through with a screwdriver.
Couple things that would help anyone else. If you torch the heads off dont get to carried away. Get enough off to let the hanger come off. Pound a flat screwdriver in between the frame and the hanger to help with removal. Even if you have quite a bit of slag left it will pop right off. Then use the torch/grinder to cut the rivet some more(flush with the frame)then smack it with a screwdriver/punch and it will pop right out. If you use a torch on it be careful that the remaining piece doesnt lay on the harness behind the frame.
Also, make sure you pop the shackle bolts free before you cut the hanger free or its........interesting......trying to get them free. Mine were rusty as hell but they were actually worse to remove after I heated them than if I just left them alone. So try it without heat first, then apply if necessary.
I never got nervous about the torch getting anywhere near the gas tank. You are quite a ways behind it. And like I said, I never punched all the way through with my torch....so that made it even "safer".
No....I would not turn the shackle/hanger upside down. Here is why. When you look at the pictures you will see how much better the range of motion on the 2wd hanger is oposed to the 4wd. Also....if you did that you would effectively LOWER the truck a solid 3".
In the end this was a very worthwhile mod. It was maybe a 5-6 out of 10 on difficulty. Wasnt real hard, but I burned the **** out of myself(Im stupid, its hot, and it didnt wear protection), and your neck will kill you at the end of the day from all the wierd angles youll be at.
I used Hi lift jacks to position the shackles and relieve the tention to get them off. It was easy as pie that way.
If anyone has any questions, or feels I left something out please comment. I think the whole process would have taken maybe 2-2 1/2 hours straight if I could have done it that way. Kids kinda boogered that up a bit.
Heres a few pics. You can see that you would have to drill holes for the 4wd shackle if you wanted to lower your 2wd. Ill comment on that tomorrow and tell you how much harder/easier it was than the 4wd install.
PS. I feel that the hanger is more than adaquate to handle the 4wd. I have seen MANY setups like this used on everything from jeeps to old pickups, and never watched one fail from stress, only rust. It is not as beefy as the 4wd hanger, but I think its a much better setup for articulation.
No I used a drill for the holes. Yeah....I could have used the torch but I would have made a mess of it. Also I didnt want to pull the taillight wiring harness....and probably would have cut it in half. I didnt punch all the way through with the torch, only used it to cut enough of the rivet that I could hammer it through with a screwdriver.
Couple things that would help anyone else. If you torch the heads off dont get to carried away. Get enough off to let the hanger come off. Pound a flat screwdriver in between the frame and the hanger to help with removal. Even if you have quite a bit of slag left it will pop right off. Then use the torch/grinder to cut the rivet some more(flush with the frame)then smack it with a screwdriver/punch and it will pop right out. If you use a torch on it be careful that the remaining piece doesnt lay on the harness behind the frame.
Also, make sure you pop the shackle bolts free before you cut the hanger free or its........interesting......trying to get them free. Mine were rusty as hell but they were actually worse to remove after I heated them than if I just left them alone. So try it without heat first, then apply if necessary.
I never got nervous about the torch getting anywhere near the gas tank. You are quite a ways behind it. And like I said, I never punched all the way through with my torch....so that made it even "safer".
No....I would not turn the shackle/hanger upside down. Here is why. When you look at the pictures you will see how much better the range of motion on the 2wd hanger is oposed to the 4wd. Also....if you did that you would effectively LOWER the truck a solid 3".
In the end this was a very worthwhile mod. It was maybe a 5-6 out of 10 on difficulty. Wasnt real hard, but I burned the **** out of myself(Im stupid, its hot, and it didnt wear protection), and your neck will kill you at the end of the day from all the wierd angles youll be at.
I used Hi lift jacks to position the shackles and relieve the tention to get them off. It was easy as pie that way.
If anyone has any questions, or feels I left something out please comment. I think the whole process would have taken maybe 2-2 1/2 hours straight if I could have done it that way. Kids kinda boogered that up a bit.
Heres a few pics. You can see that you would have to drill holes for the 4wd shackle if you wanted to lower your 2wd. Ill comment on that tomorrow and tell you how much harder/easier it was than the 4wd install.
PS. I feel that the hanger is more than adaquate to handle the 4wd. I have seen MANY setups like this used on everything from jeeps to old pickups, and never watched one fail from stress, only rust. It is not as beefy as the 4wd hanger, but I think its a much better setup for articulation.
#13
06-19-2009, 10:17 AM
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#14
06-19-2009, 05:02 PM
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No pics, my battery was dead. The 2wd drops just under 2". Installation is similar to the 4wd. Lower holes matched, drilled new uppers.
You have to take the whole shackle off the 4wd to get them off/back on. Just to warn anyone doing this, it takes a little more time to remove/replace the 4wd shackle than the 2wd. The 2wd you can leave it attached to the hanger.
I picked up my truck with the hi lift, and I think I gained about 2-2 1/2" of functional articulation on the bottom end. Pretty impressive considering it keeps the factory ride intact. It stuffs pretty much the same, so no change there.
Anyone with any questions feel free to ask. I feel pretty knowledgeable about this particular mod now. If ya got a torch/grinder and need 2" I recomend it over blocks any day.
You have to take the whole shackle off the 4wd to get them off/back on. Just to warn anyone doing this, it takes a little more time to remove/replace the 4wd shackle than the 2wd. The 2wd you can leave it attached to the hanger.
I picked up my truck with the hi lift, and I think I gained about 2-2 1/2" of functional articulation on the bottom end. Pretty impressive considering it keeps the factory ride intact. It stuffs pretty much the same, so no change there.
Anyone with any questions feel free to ask. I feel pretty knowledgeable about this particular mod now. If ya got a torch/grinder and need 2" I recomend it over blocks any day.
#16
06-19-2009, 05:58 PM
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I dont think I would recommend flipping either of them. The swap would be a good idea.
Depends on what you mean by towing. Every system has a limit. I dont think the 2wd hanger is any "weaker" of a design than the 4wd hanger. It is smaller, but not any lighter gauge steel. Its still a heavy piece. I plan to tow a 19 foot boat and probably something heavier(I do that from time to time)
I personally think the 2wd hanger is the better option all around. You may have a *little* better strength with the 4wd.....but If your overloading your factory suspension to the point its going to break.....its gonna break regardless what hanger you have.
the bucket basically requires more metal to handle the design, not necessarily the force put on it by the truck. Simply by the design itself. The way the load is destributed on the hanger/shackle requires a heavier setup. The 2wd hanger distributes that same weight/pressure better(IMO) so it doesnt need to be as big.
I plan to pair this with a 2-3 key up front. Ill let you know what happens when I order/install those. Ill then top it off with a 2" body if necessary.
Depends on what you mean by towing. Every system has a limit. I dont think the 2wd hanger is any "weaker" of a design than the 4wd hanger. It is smaller, but not any lighter gauge steel. Its still a heavy piece. I plan to tow a 19 foot boat and probably something heavier(I do that from time to time)
I personally think the 2wd hanger is the better option all around. You may have a *little* better strength with the 4wd.....but If your overloading your factory suspension to the point its going to break.....its gonna break regardless what hanger you have.
the bucket basically requires more metal to handle the design, not necessarily the force put on it by the truck. Simply by the design itself. The way the load is destributed on the hanger/shackle requires a heavier setup. The 2wd hanger distributes that same weight/pressure better(IMO) so it doesnt need to be as big.
I plan to pair this with a 2-3 key up front. Ill let you know what happens when I order/install those. Ill then top it off with a 2" body if necessary.
