Yes you have to remove the transfer case. It will take several hours. If you have power tools it will make it easier.

Several Ideas and hits have been posted in this tread. Just read through it. https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...te-issues.html

Also check the FAQ in this section for the service manuals too.

 

Ok thanks, I was reading someone on here gets the 4x4 trans out in an hour and I was confused because it also said the rear cross member is not in the way?

 

I had to take the transmission out with the transfer case connected. It would have probably been a LOT easier to take out separately, but my t-case was basically corroded to the trans.

 

Wow, dodgerules, how did you manage to corrode two aluminum cases?!?!

Alright, here is a run through of how I take out the transmission, since nobody seems to believe that it can be a quick job...

First, unbolt the driveshafts from the t case and the t case from the transmission. Unhook the t case wiring and shift lever and pull the t case off the transmission. For me, I can take the t case out without a jack cause its not that heavy (putting it in is harder without a jack). That shouldn't take much more than 10 minutes with air.

Next, raise the front of the truck up on jackstands and remove the 2 front wheels and inner wheel wells. This will give you access to the oil filter, and mounting brackets without the need for swivel sockets or odd extension combinations. Remove the oil filter and transmission-engine-front axle brackets on each side as well as the starter. Also, remove the exhaust manifold to y pipe bolts. This shouldn't take much more than 10-15 minutes with air.

Once the brackets are out of the way, take off the dust plate, remove the remaining front engine to bellhousing bolts and unbolt the flexplate. This cannot be done with air, so it depends on how fast you are with a wrench. Be sure to mark one of the bolt holes on the flex plate with spray paint or some marking compound to make putting them back in easy (the bolt holes only line up one way). This should take no more than 10 minutes if your fast with a wrench.

Next, (and this is just what I did cause I have a welder), I unplugged the o2 sensor and cut the bottom of the y pipe off with a pneumatic cut off wheel to get it out of my way. If you don't have the ability to weld the exhaust back together, the entire exhaust system needs to come out and this can be a PITA. Next, drain the transmission fluid by loosening the pan and when it's done draining, tighten it back down. To save time, you can unplug the wiring harnesses, unhook the transmission shifter and cooler lines while the fluid is draining. This should take 10-15 minutes.

*EDIT*
I forgot... Around the step of draining the fluid, or even while the transmission fluid is draining, the transmission support crossmember needs to be unbolted from the transmission and the frame and slid back behind the transmission out of the way. This needs to be done before the bellhousing bolts are removed.
*****

Once thats done, support the transmission with a transmission jack and unbolt the remaining engine to bellhousing bolts (and pull out the fill tube when you get that bolt out) and lower the transmission out of the way SLOWLY making sure everything was properly unhooked. Again, shouldn't take more than 10 minutes with air.

So we're up to between 50 minutes to and hour. If I'm forgetting any steps, someone chime in and correct me. The job can be done fast if you work diligently and have all the neccessary tools next to you ready to go. If its the first time your taking it out, don't rush it, take 2 or 3 hours and pay attention to how it all comes out.

 

I replaced the transmission with out 109,000 on the odometer. I got the truck with 86,000 on it. We had to take a piece of wood and a sledge hammer (don't hit the t-case directly with a sledge hammer!) to separate it from the trans! I have no idea how it got that bad.

You forgot to mention the crankshaft position sensor. (Upper passenger side of the transmission). I mean, when removing the dipstick tube and top bolts, you should see it, but it's worthy of mentioning by itself.

 

I didn't remove the crankshaft position sensor. With the cutout in the bellhousing, it's not in the way. I guess it wouldn't hurt to remove it just so it doesn't get broken when you slide the transmission back in though.

I know what I forgot... Around the step of draining the fluid, or even while the transmission fluid is draining, the transmission support crossmember needs to be unbolted from the transmission and the frame and slid back behind the transmission out of the way. This needs to be done before the bellhousing bolts are removed.

Also, don't expect to be able to put the transmission in and everything back together that easily or that fast. Putting it back together can take anwhere from 2 to 4 hours depending on how much the parts fight with you.

 

For me, the whole thing was a nightmare.
Typically, my first time doing anything takes way longer than it should. But, the second and so-on times I do it, the easier it goes.

I couldn't remember if the bolts for the crank-sensor were on the trans or engine. I know the service manual says to remove it, and just want to error on the safe side when giving advice.

 

Good call! Yeah, the first time I removed my transmission it took about 4 hours just to get it out, but when I did the transmission swap, and knew exactly what had to come out and what tools I needed to get there, it took me about an hour. I will admit there were several things like the cooler lines, tv cable, and shifting assembly that I cut off instead of removing properly cause I knew they weren't going back in, so that being said I guess doing it properly could be done in just over an hour, like maybe and hour and 10 to 15 minutes if I ever had to do it the right way again. I guess I'll never know though, cause the manual can be taken out in way less time since there is no flexplate bolts and its smaller and weighs less so its easier to navigate it down out of the truck.

 

Yea. Like you said earlier, you can (I could) remove and install the t-case with my hands (well, and a ratchet and socket, which helps with the bolts!) And I weigh in at 160, 6' 3", so I'm not exactly built. And I have just about no upper body strength. (Push ups to me sound like "death.")

I had to cut the fluid lines, because they were rusted to hell. It took me a lot more than 4 hours. However, when I work, for every hour I work, there is a 30-minute Dr. Pepper break, and about 20-minutes of swearing. Do the math!