So not long after waking up my Dakota from it's 20 year hibernation, it suddenly stopped working. It seemed to be the Crankshaft Position Sensor, so I quickly bought a cheapy, slapped it in, and all was momentarily fine. A few weeks later I notice that after it runs for an hour or so that something seems to get heat soaked and it starts bucking like a bronco - not a reference to Ford
. Anyhow, I learned two things:
1) this new bucking is a symptom of a bad Crankshaft Position Sensor
2) I should only use OEM Mopar CPS's because the aftermarket can be sketchy. (Which may have been my problem)

I am assuming that the cheap CPS is what is giving me the issue, but it looks like Mopar doesn't make one any longer. How is the Dakota community adapting to the loss of OEM CPS's? I notice that all of the aftermarket LOOK like same and look nothing like OEM. Not sure what my next step should be. Any recommendations?
Thank you for your input!
Wrenchtosser

 

Found this https://www.moparpartsgiant.com/part...~56026921.html
The other idea I have is junkyards. Looks like Dorman, Delphi and Walker make them new. Some of their stuff is good. IDK about the CPS.

 

Sorry about that bad link .I clicked it today and it says it doesn't fit the 95. I looked up the part numbers in case this helps you find something New Old Stock.
56027272 for automatic transmission
56027273 for manual transmission.

 

Wow! Thank you for doing the legwork on this! I saw that all of the Mopar ones were discontinued and no longer available. So I started looking around and I thought that possibly all of the cheaper ones were made by the same company because they look identical and none of them look like the OEM. But then I noticed that some higher end companies like NTK make it and I don't think that they would use a inferior product, so I'm not sure. Time for me to think about a new game plan.

 

I'm no mechanic ... when a engine starts up, it runs in what is called a closed loop ... the ECM is not involved ... as the engine warms up, then the computer kicks in and it actually runs off of the computer and sensors the information being sent from the sensors to the ECM.

I recently had a issue like this, ran great cold ... as it warmed up and started reading the sensors ... it sucked .... this is a 1993 Dodge Caravan with a 3.3 V6 ... not your engine and it is a Dodge that works the same way.

The cam sensor locates #1 on TDC ... Timing. .... when cold it does not read the sensors and just ran fine ... once I drove it 10 miles and it warmed up, and computer goes into a open loop and runs off the sensors ... my cam sensor was bad and the engine could not control timing.

Change your cam sensor .... I fought this for a few months ... I even installed a spark checker between plug and plug wire ... cold the spark was fine ... warmed up, spark went crazy and it would buck like a bronco.

 

PCM is ALWAYS involved. Without it, the engine doesn't run.

On cold start, the PCM runs in open loop, it uses input from most of the sensors, and determines fuel from those readings, and comparing them to tables it has stored. Once the engine warms up, it goes into closed loop, and it uses the Pre-cat O2 sensor(s) to see if the engine is burning rich, or lean, and adjusts fuel accordingly.

Cam sensor determines injector timing. There is a rumor that once the engine is running, it is ignored..... but, I have not tested that theory. Ignition timing is determined solely by the crank sensor, and modified by the pcm for current conditions. (sensor inputs) According to that theory though, if the engine starts, it should continue to run just fine, barring other problems.... But, if replacing the cam sensor solves the 'runs bad when warm' issue, then it would seem the PCM does indeed care about cam sensor input with engine running.

 

I fought this issue for 4-6 months ... installed a junk yard motor with 135K on it ... I also added all new sensors ... crank, cam, 02

I finally realized my new cam sensor was bad out of the box ... engine ran fine when cold ... and in open loop .... once it went into closed loop, cam sensor was bad and the engine could not properly control timing.

I also read that the cam sensor helps it start ... after that is not important .... I know better now ... cam sensor tells the computer where TDC and controls the timing ... while in open loop it does not matter ... once it goes into closed loop it matters.

I do not pretend to know how this all works and engine runs fine when cold ... once it warms up and system goes into closed loop ... now the failed cam sensor counts.

Now if a you have a bad crank sensor, it will not start .... if you have a bad cam sensor .... it will start but can not control timing ... no way I will change my mind on this ... I earned this knowledge the hard way.

 

Cam sensor is for injector timing. That's it. Has nothing to do with ignition. That's the crank sensor.

Cam sensor changes state once per crankshaft revolution, indicating to the PCM where in the firing order the engine is. This is how it knows which injector to fire. (sequential port fuel injection after all....) It is REQUIRED for engine startup, after that, it's open to debate..... But, it seems to me, if you have a wonky crank sensor, One of two mis-reads there, and injector timing is now out of whack......

 

I replaced the CKP with one from Standard Motor Products, works fine. On a side note, the engine did not like to start when coolant temp was at normal running temp, injectors were dumping fuel. Coolant temp sensor was at fault, no voltage readings from the PCM. New sensor fixed it.

 

I will add that I have read on the internets that cam sensor helps it start then is out of play ... because of this belief I always assumed the brand new cam sensor was fine and tried everything else .... I changed the crank sensor 3 times.
The 3rd one was a NOS from ebay. .... well it's running, can't be a cam sensor!!!

Finally took it to a local mechanic to pay to have him use his OBD1 scanner on it ... turns out he sold it ... seems he had to pay a annual license fee for it and not worth keeping it.

His advice, if it was a bad crank sensor it would not start .... the O2 sensor, MAP sensor or the cam sensor is the only things that can cause the engine to run like that after it warms up and runs off the sensors.
Because I used my spark tester connected to plug wire/spark plug .... Dodge 3.3 is a wasted spark system meaning it fires every stroke ... just a steady spark ... once it warmed up, the spark was erratic and disappear and just all over the place.
So I knew it was ignition related and not O2 sensor ... changed the cam sensor as mechanic suggested and it runs perfect and we have put over 6K trouble free miles on it.
Was just really frustrating as it was a used motor with 135K miles on it and I replaced every sensor,coil, plugs/wires before I installed it ... then had the ignition issue ... I bought a used ECM ... is installed now and original is tucked away for a spare. I rebuilt the injector wire harness where it crosses over exhaust ... hoping it would fix the problem, then I went after the wire harness under the battery tray.

I went through months of trying everything to fix it ... because I read on the internet, the cam sensor only helps it start .. if it's running it is not a cam sensor ... I disagree with that statement 110%

@wrenchtosser get yourself a cheap spark tester


Then monitor your spark ... according to my mechanics advice, you might have a bad O2 sensor MAP sensor or a bad cam sensor ... bad cam sensor will affect the spark and make it erratic ... I do not know for sure, I do not think the O2 or MAP will effect ignition spark. .... so the spark test will give you a start.
IMHO, if the crank sensor went bad and it works hand in hand with cam sensor ... it has just as many hours on it as the old crank sensor .... for my personal vehicles, I would replace them together.
My problem cam sensor was brand new, at first I could drive the car about 50-60 miles before it acted up ... just gradually got worse where could only drive 4-5 miles.

https://p15-d24.com/topic/55045-way-...ge/9/#comments
I have a thread on the car elsewhere and on December 6 2024 I started talking about my issue ... August 26 2025 I wrote ... 4 full pages of replacing fuel relays, fuel pump, rebuild wire harness, replace ECM ...
Moral of the story, cam sensors count also

I was told by many people online that the cam sensors helps the engine start ... crank sensor keeps it running.

This is false ... camshaft sensor finds #1 cylinder ... if it is not working, it can not control timing.

I paid dearly for this lesson, one I will not forget.