Early opinion info....
#1
09-24-2009, 04:37 PM
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Lubbock, TX
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Early opinion info....
I know i still haven't posted px - the truck is that LOVELY crap brown over tan 2-tone with a tan interior. I like the interior, and the tan middle belt is good, but the brown is so oxidized it's nasty.
What I wanted feedback on is, with the tan interior, I though about masking off above the tan belt, and respray the dark brown as either the medium to dark green, or a maroon - however, are there any other colors other there that would look good with the tan interior? Those are all I can see... My dad suggested going silver of whte - but tan would not go well witht he silver - unsure on the white... if I go white, it'll be an ALL-Over job, losing the 2-tone, badging, etc....
Just asking for some advise / suggestions before I start to look at paint.
What I wanted feedback on is, with the tan interior, I though about masking off above the tan belt, and respray the dark brown as either the medium to dark green, or a maroon - however, are there any other colors other there that would look good with the tan interior? Those are all I can see... My dad suggested going silver of whte - but tan would not go well witht he silver - unsure on the white... if I go white, it'll be an ALL-Over job, losing the 2-tone, badging, etc....
Just asking for some advise / suggestions before I start to look at paint.
#2
09-24-2009, 04:47 PM
Thats a good question. I can't think of much that would go with with light brown paint and a tan interior. If you went with an all over and lost the 2 tone, I would say burgundy, maroon, any dark shade of blue, black or white. I'd personally stay away from the line of silvers.
Here is my best advise though, having worked over 3 years in a body shop. DON'T mask off the stripe and paint the rest of the truck. It will look like crap. If you're going to spend the money and take the time to repaint your truck, take the extra bit of time to do it right. Take off all the badges, emblems, pinstripping, moldings, door handles, mirrors, take the windows out, etc. That way there will be no break lines in the paint that would come back to haunt you in 6 months to a year.
Here is my best advise though, having worked over 3 years in a body shop. DON'T mask off the stripe and paint the rest of the truck. It will look like crap. If you're going to spend the money and take the time to repaint your truck, take the extra bit of time to do it right. Take off all the badges, emblems, pinstripping, moldings, door handles, mirrors, take the windows out, etc. That way there will be no break lines in the paint that would come back to haunt you in 6 months to a year.
#3
09-24-2009, 05:00 PM
I know i still haven't posted px - the truck is that LOVELY crap brown over tan 2-tone with a tan interior. I like the interior, and the tan middle belt is good, but the brown is so oxidized it's nasty.
What I wanted feedback on is, with the tan interior, I though about masking off above the tan belt, and respray the dark brown as either the medium to dark green, or a maroon - however, are there any other colors other there that would look good with the tan interior? Those are all I can see... My dad suggested going silver of whte - but tan would not go well witht he silver - unsure on the white... if I go white, it'll be an ALL-Over job, losing the 2-tone, badging, etc....
Just asking for some advise / suggestions before I start to look at paint.
What I wanted feedback on is, with the tan interior, I though about masking off above the tan belt, and respray the dark brown as either the medium to dark green, or a maroon - however, are there any other colors other there that would look good with the tan interior? Those are all I can see... My dad suggested going silver of whte - but tan would not go well witht he silver - unsure on the white... if I go white, it'll be an ALL-Over job, losing the 2-tone, badging, etc....
Just asking for some advise / suggestions before I start to look at paint.
I called maaco yesterday and they start at $299.95. If you go with a two-tone it is going to cost at least $200 more whatever the price for a single color would be.
Personally, I plan on going with a flat or satin black on my truck, but a gloss black or red would also look really nice.
#4
09-24-2009, 05:05 PM
Oh, I just re-read your post. Are you planning on spraying it yourself? If so I agree fully with 318. Do the propper prep work before you lay down the color or it will not look good. If you DIY it I would really like to see how it turns out because I'm considering doing mine myself even though most people argue against it.
#5
09-24-2009, 05:31 PM
I wrote a thead linked in FAQ2 about body and paint work, and I'll write up a more detailed one with pictures when I get around to the body/paint work on my new truck. But I painted my truck in my garage with du-pont paint after taking body completely apart and stripping it down to the bare metal.
#6
09-24-2009, 05:55 PM
I wrote a thead linked in FAQ2 about body and paint work, and I'll write up a more detailed one with pictures when I get around to the body/paint work on my new truck. But I painted my truck in my garage with du-pont paint after taking body completely apart and stripping it down to the bare metal.
#7
09-24-2009, 06:00 PM
It would look fine if you prepped and sprayed the whole thing as long as the paint is not chipped, cracked, or flaking off. Also, rock chips will show back through and look terrible, so they need to be sanded out and primed and blocked before painting over them.
If you're not going to strip it down to the bare metal, then go over the paint that is there now with 400 grit WET sandpaper.
If you're not going to strip it down to the bare metal, then go over the paint that is there now with 400 grit WET sandpaper.
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#8
09-25-2009, 12:05 AM
It would look fine if you prepped and sprayed the whole thing as long as the paint is not chipped, cracked, or flaking off. Also, rock chips will show back through and look terrible, so they need to be sanded out and primed and blocked before painting over them.
If you're not going to strip it down to the bare metal, then go over the paint that is there now with 400 grit WET sandpaper.
If you're not going to strip it down to the bare metal, then go over the paint that is there now with 400 grit WET sandpaper.
Few questions on my mind (sorry for the hijack dude)
Can I go straight in with the 400 grit wet sand? then prime it?
I am not a fan of the trim so that's coming off, will i need to fill those holes where the trim screws to the well?
I will probably take pics of all the areas that need work and post them up in my own thread at some point.
#9
09-25-2009, 12:15 AM
Well, the 400 grit wet sanding is for the areas that aren't getting any work done.
For areas like rock chips, you need to sand them down to the metal, being sure to feather the edges out (if you can feel an edge in the paint, it will show through). This process should be done with 80 grit, then 180 grit, then 320 grit, then prime it. Once the primer is dry, wet sand it with 400 grit.
For the areas that require metal work and body filler, it needs to be sanded down to the metal with a 36 grit grinding wheel. Then pull out the dents or dings as much as possible and lay on the body filler for the rest. Remember, the thicker the body filller, the more likely it will be that one day it cracks, so work the metal as much as you can before putting on the body filler. Once the body filler is dry, sand it with 80 grit sand paper until its smooth and repeat as necessary. Once your satisfied, put another thin layer on it and sand with 180 grit and then with 320 grit and prime it. Wet sand the primer with 400 grit once its dry.
Another tip... its very hard to see dings and ripples in the metal without the shiny paint on it, so when your sanding, lightly dust the body filler or primer with black spray paint so you can find the high and low spots.
For areas like rock chips, you need to sand them down to the metal, being sure to feather the edges out (if you can feel an edge in the paint, it will show through). This process should be done with 80 grit, then 180 grit, then 320 grit, then prime it. Once the primer is dry, wet sand it with 400 grit.
For the areas that require metal work and body filler, it needs to be sanded down to the metal with a 36 grit grinding wheel. Then pull out the dents or dings as much as possible and lay on the body filler for the rest. Remember, the thicker the body filller, the more likely it will be that one day it cracks, so work the metal as much as you can before putting on the body filler. Once the body filler is dry, sand it with 80 grit sand paper until its smooth and repeat as necessary. Once your satisfied, put another thin layer on it and sand with 180 grit and then with 320 grit and prime it. Wet sand the primer with 400 grit once its dry.
Another tip... its very hard to see dings and ripples in the metal without the shiny paint on it, so when your sanding, lightly dust the body filler or primer with black spray paint so you can find the high and low spots.
#10
09-25-2009, 02:42 AM
Well, the 400 grit wet sanding is for the areas that aren't getting any work done.
For areas like rock chips, you need to sand them down to the metal, being sure to feather the edges out (if you can feel an edge in the paint, it will show through). This process should be done with 80 grit, then 180 grit, then 320 grit, then prime it. Once the primer is dry, wet sand it with 400 grit.
For the areas that require metal work and body filler, it needs to be sanded down to the metal with a 36 grit grinding wheel. Then pull out the dents or dings as much as possible and lay on the body filler for the rest. Remember, the thicker the body filller, the more likely it will be that one day it cracks, so work the metal as much as you can before putting on the body filler. Once the body filler is dry, sand it with 80 grit sand paper until its smooth and repeat as necessary. Once your satisfied, put another thin layer on it and sand with 180 grit and then with 320 grit and prime it. Wet sand the primer with 400 grit once its dry.
Another tip... its very hard to see dings and ripples in the metal without the shiny paint on it, so when your sanding, lightly dust the body filler or primer with black spray paint so you can find the high and low spots.
For areas like rock chips, you need to sand them down to the metal, being sure to feather the edges out (if you can feel an edge in the paint, it will show through). This process should be done with 80 grit, then 180 grit, then 320 grit, then prime it. Once the primer is dry, wet sand it with 400 grit.
For the areas that require metal work and body filler, it needs to be sanded down to the metal with a 36 grit grinding wheel. Then pull out the dents or dings as much as possible and lay on the body filler for the rest. Remember, the thicker the body filller, the more likely it will be that one day it cracks, so work the metal as much as you can before putting on the body filler. Once the body filler is dry, sand it with 80 grit sand paper until its smooth and repeat as necessary. Once your satisfied, put another thin layer on it and sand with 180 grit and then with 320 grit and prime it. Wet sand the primer with 400 grit once its dry.
Another tip... its very hard to see dings and ripples in the metal without the shiny paint on it, so when your sanding, lightly dust the body filler or primer with black spray paint so you can find the high and low spots.