I got ya covered on the shift pattern. Just wait till you get your box. 10 minutes of "fab" and youll have your new pattern down.

 

FWIW, having had a 99 Dakota, 98 XJ and 99 XJ all with 242 the mileage difference ranges from under 1-2 MPG most of the time.

 

Well, I came up with the design for the new shift plate. I have a buddy who works at a shop with a cnc milling machine, so he's going to let me cut it out on that, but I have to wait 'til Wednesday. I'll probably bolt up the t case under the truck tomorrow and put it in 2wd and leave the shifter unhooked until I can get the plate made.

Here is a drawing of the original shift plate...
Original.jpg?t=1254799409

And here is the new one I need to make for this transfer case to work with my truck's shifter...

New.jpg?t=1254799569

You can see the difference in the angle the slot is keyed at for the plate to clear the case and still shift through all the positions.

 

Cool! Simple part to make will be quick!

 

Ever so slight of an angle.

 

Yeah, you're a machinist, Crazy! Quick, cut that out and put it in the mail! JK!!!!

Yeah, it won't be hard to make at all. My buddy said the CNC might be slow on the slot cause of the angle it sits at... I've never used one so I don't know. But it will be made on Wednesday. What kind of steel would you suggest I get for that Crazy?

 

Yup, I can tell you it's exactly 17* clockwise. I spent a while taking measurements before I drew that. But not only is the re-keying neccessary, the double-bend is too so the shift rod will clear the case. The 231's shift plate has the double-bend in it, but since the 242's original plate faced downward, it had more room to clear with the way the case is shaped, so it was a simple, flat plate. The 231's shift plate had the hole keyed around 40* counter clockwise to the 242, which was too much because it's oriented horizontally with respect to the transfer case when you get down toward 4Lo.

 

I see no problem with that angle. It's the pocket. Just go with a smaller endmill and Ramp in so you don't bury the tool. For something that simple 1018 will work. That will give you the fastest cutting speed for steel. But depending on the scrap your friend has try to see if he has some stainless or titanium (Slow cutting speed for both) will be cool. Most shops will keep scraps around.

Or go with aluminum 7075 is a good start. It can handle it. Make it thicker if you want.

 

Thanks! I really wish I knew more about machining. I was going to take some classes until my local community college dropped their entire machine shop!! That pissed me off.

Yeah, he said they should have scrap, but if they don't, based on what you said, I think I'll just go to the hardware store and get a 1.25" x 3/16" x however long bar of stainless steel.

 

So what is the Update?