body work
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Captain
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 509
Likes: 1
From: SoCal
body work
So, I'm just waiting for the money to come in to start buying everything to start fixin up the dak. I decided that I'm going to start on the body work and then move to the t-case. Just do a fluid change on the tranny and keep the t-case topped up while I work on some of the body.
I drilled out all the rusted up rivets the were holding the cracked-up plastic bedliner in and got it off. no rust in the bed whatsoever, except for some minor surface rust where the rivets and other assorted holes are.
I went ahead and took pics of the worst of the body damage. starting with dents and moving to the holes/GOUGES.
DRIVER SIDE FENDER:
PASSENGER SIDE FENDER:
PASSENGER TAIL LIGHT:
HOOD:
REAR TRIM HOLES:
REAR TRIM RIVET:
BED HOLES:
I'm going to use sksshark's(sp?) idea and use some kind of metal plating and JB weld it to the reverse side of all the holes. There are some holes in the tailgate that I can't get to the reverse side of, but I'm just gunna fill them anyway and hope it hold up. Whatever.
You can't really see it, but many of the holes are really marred/gouged through the steel good, like an exit wound. What I did was file them and any raised knots down. I may get some criticism here but I think it's going to work just fine and after all it will be covered with a body filler so it doesn't matter. It would have come out nicer if I had a dremel but I don't. I think I may need one for the underside, though to level the metal so the plates lay down better behind the holes.
Here's some of the filing work in the problem areas:
as a side note, this is the body filler I'm going to use: http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/dyna...r-p-13942.aspx
I drilled out all the rusted up rivets the were holding the cracked-up plastic bedliner in and got it off. no rust in the bed whatsoever, except for some minor surface rust where the rivets and other assorted holes are.
I went ahead and took pics of the worst of the body damage. starting with dents and moving to the holes/GOUGES.
DRIVER SIDE FENDER:
PASSENGER SIDE FENDER:
PASSENGER TAIL LIGHT:
HOOD:
REAR TRIM HOLES:
REAR TRIM RIVET:
BED HOLES:
I'm going to use sksshark's(sp?) idea and use some kind of metal plating and JB weld it to the reverse side of all the holes. There are some holes in the tailgate that I can't get to the reverse side of, but I'm just gunna fill them anyway and hope it hold up. Whatever.
You can't really see it, but many of the holes are really marred/gouged through the steel good, like an exit wound. What I did was file them and any raised knots down. I may get some criticism here but I think it's going to work just fine and after all it will be covered with a body filler so it doesn't matter. It would have come out nicer if I had a dremel but I don't. I think I may need one for the underside, though to level the metal so the plates lay down better behind the holes.
Here's some of the filing work in the problem areas:
as a side note, this is the body filler I'm going to use: http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/dyna...r-p-13942.aspx
Professional
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 169
Likes: 0
From: central NJ
Why just just weld up the holes. Very easy if you're even just somewhat firmiliar with welding. Even if you're not, find a welding shop it'll cost next to nothing to tack up those holes. It'll save a ton of time vs putty fill and then you'll never have to worry about it cracking
Thread Starter
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Captain
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 509
Likes: 1
From: SoCal
Why just just weld up the holes. Very easy if you're even just somewhat firmiliar with welding. Even if you're not, find a welding shop it'll cost next to nothing to tack up those holes. It'll save a ton of time vs putty fill and then you'll never have to worry about it cracking
I think I got ripped on that body filler, came to $40 LMAO. My dad knows someone that welds I might ask him. Thanks.