Hey guys! Great forum you've got here. I'm looking into purchasing a used 1993 v8 4x4 extended cab dakota that's for sale. I've been looking into finding out the payload capacity and it seems range anywhere from #1400 to #2600. I realize it varies based on extended cab, 4x4, etc. But looking around this forum I saw a post saying it can vary based on the rear suspension and that the model I'm looking into had 2 possible suspensions. Is there an easy way to identify the suspension?

Also, I was planning on running a compression test. Does anyone know offhand the size socket I'll need to bring to remove the plugs? And where I should disconnect the ignition system? Compression readings in the 100-150 range are good?

Thanks! If I end up getting it, you'll probably see me around a bit. At the very least the guy says the heater's not working...

-iLan

 

Welcome to DodgeForum!

If it's a v8 4x4, you more than likely have 2000 lb rear springs. If not, you can always put coilover or air towing shocks on the back to up the spring rates. I've safely pulled 5500 lbs with my truck, and I know someone else who has pulled almost 7000 lbs with his.

You should really do a leak-down test rather than a compression test if you have the ability to do so. Anyway, I think the spark plugs are 5/8s? The ignition can be disconnected at the coil.

As for the heater not working, is it not blowing at all, or just not blowing hot air? It may just need a thermostat.

 

Welcome to DF

To disconnect the ignition, I would sugest the ASD Auto Shut Down relay. That will prevent the injectors from spaying as well as the ignition.

 

Thanks for the tips guys. I went to look at the truck today. Took it for a test drive and it drove real nice! It did have a "loose front end" as the seller described it, but after looking on the forum here, it seems that's a simple fix (hopefully) by tightening the adjustment screw above the steering box. I didn't know how severe of a problem that was so I didn't run the compression test so as not to waste time. I figured I'd go home and do a little research on that steering issue and then see if it still sounded like it was worth it to do the compression test. And as both of the problems with the truck seem to be relatively easy fixes, it looks like I'll be asking him to come back and run that compression test after all. So to pull that ASD Auto Shut Down relay, I locate the PDC (black box by the battery) and pull out relay #3, yes?

The heater blower still works fine. And the AC works fine too, so it sounds like the heater may be a simple fix as well. It's possible the physical sliding switch behind the temperature selector got disconnected. That happened once in my metro.

It does have a small oil and coolant leak, but not any more than any of my other vehicles (or so it seems).

Carfax report comes back clean. 3 previous owners. No title problems or accidents. Even showed that it had a 80,000 mile checkup back in the day. So it looks like a pretty good truck.

The seller is asking for $2,500, but due to the heater not working and the steering slop, and pretty much all 4 tires needing to be replaced, I can hopefully talk him down a bit. The body all appears to be in pretty good condition though.

A couple other quick questions. Would I be able to fit a full 4X8 sheet of plywood flat in the bed with the tailgate down? I forgot to bring a tape measure. There is a bed liner, and I'm not entirely sure how much room there is between those wheel humps in the bed. I thought I remember reading about being able to fit a full sheet flat in the reg cab long bed with the tailgate up, but I'm not positive about the extended cab version.

Is there anything else I should be looking at? Does something like $2000 seem reasonable given the condition and the age and the problems? Or does that still seem a little high?

Thanks again!

-iLan

 

I'd be a lot more willing to bet that the steering slop is due to worn out ball joints and/or tie rods and/or pitman arm and idler arm. These are common things to wear out on these trucks.

 

I'll 2nd a pitman arm as the steering problem. Where is it leaking oil/coolant? The 3 Dakotas I've had (92,99,92) have all leaked coolant at the thermostat housing due to over torqued bolts.

You can fit a 4x8 sheet but not between the wheel wells, with a 2x8 (maybe 2x6) in the slots in front and behind the wheel wells it'll lay flat above them.

 

I noticed a small pool of what appeared to be coolant on the top side of the splash guard (I think that's what it is) underneath the radiator in front of the engine. When I put a small piece of paper towel on the liquid to see what color it was it looked a lot like oil (in color), but appeared too thin to be oil. When I asked the guy about it he said that when he takes it in to get oil changes and such, they always tell him he may have a small leak. Tops him off and he's on his way...

It looks like replacing the various steering components that could be causing the looseness isn't all that difficult. Just a bit time consuming and potentially difficult to remove...

Thanks for the insight on the 4x8 fitting in the bed. So was what I read incorrect about a full sheet fitting in the regular cab, long bed, or did I misinterpret that? Or is that version of the truck wider?

 

I third the pitman arm and or ball joints & tie-rods ends.

For the heater problem, you should be able to hear the door open and shut as you move the selector from cold to hot as it's actuated via a cable. If you don't it may have become disconnected otherwise, I'd agree with the thermostat. When I bought my truck the thermostat had been removed altogether.

Now for the price. I bought my truck (a 1995 V8 4x4) with 115k (I believe) back in 2005 and paid $2000 for it when the blue book was $2600 in good condition. You're talking about a 1993 with (how many miles?) for $2500 with a bum heater and a few other seemingly minor things. Personally unless the truck is pristine, I wouldn't pay more than $1500 for it. Others here will disagree, that's ok, that's what I love about this forum. Everyone is allowed their opinion and doesn't get condemned for it. Publicly anyway...

The only other thing I can think of to check is for any indication of oil at the base of the throttle body cause that would be a whole nother issue. Yes I know nother isn't a word

 

Well I checked kbb, and it's value according to that is somewhere around $3000 kbb value

I figure it's somewhere between fair and good condition. My budget for a truck is right around $2500, and new tires will run me about $4-$500 I think. With the other issues we're looking at a little over $2500 (If I get it for $2000). Perhaps I'll start a little lower and see what he says. I did find a 1995 extended cab dakota for $1800 asking price. Although that truck does have over 200,000 miles, and I'm not sure about 4x4. It's also located a bit farther away.

Is oil at the base of the throttle body a common problem?

 

A full 4x8 will fit in a regular cab long bed but not between the wheel wells. An 8ft bed was an option in the regular cab up until 99 if I remember correctly, the GEN 1 extended cab trucks were only made with a 6.5ft bed.