ok so i went to try to get my alignment done today and 4 problems...
1.shocks no good, i already know how to change those
2.ball joints upper and lower both sides bad, mech said lower are easy but top need special tool??? is this true?
3. motor mounts- rubber is blown out, jack under engine and unbolt?? right?
4. the axle seal on passenger side is leaking =( this one looks the hardest to me, any help would be much appreciated...
quick rundown walkthrough would be nice
thx! =)
1.shocks no good, i already know how to change those
2.ball joints upper and lower both sides bad, mech said lower are easy but top need special tool??? is this true?
3. motor mounts- rubber is blown out, jack under engine and unbolt?? right?
4. the axle seal on passenger side is leaking =( this one looks the hardest to me, any help would be much appreciated...
quick rundown walkthrough would be nice
thx! =)
Hall Of Fame
1. Ya shocks are extremely easy to change.
2. Yes you will need 2 special tools. 1 for the upper, a large socket like this one Here, it is threaded in. 2 for the bottom a ball joint press. You can rent it at most auto part stores.
3. Yes you can jack it up from underneath. But be extremely careful. The best way it to lift it up with an engine jack. Or use a Strong overhead structure or tree and a come-along.
4. It shouldn't be to hard. But are you talking about the back or the front?
2. Yes you will need 2 special tools. 1 for the upper, a large socket like this one Here, it is threaded in. 2 for the bottom a ball joint press. You can rent it at most auto part stores.
3. Yes you can jack it up from underneath. But be extremely careful. The best way it to lift it up with an engine jack. Or use a Strong overhead structure or tree and a come-along.
4. It shouldn't be to hard. But are you talking about the back or the front?
Hall Of Fame
More involved with the front but not bad. Remove the CV's then open the diff. cover pull the clips and pull out the axle shaft. Then replace the seal. If you want check out the FAQ for the service manual for specific details and pics on how to do it.
Veteran
the passenger side axle has the auto locker in it. to remove you only have to take out 4 bolts in the axle housing. remove the axle, spin the inner axle flange so the large hole aligns with the bolts. remove them and pull the short axle out. the seal and all will be removed. you will be left with a short axle, outer bearing and seal. then you have to use a puller to remove the bearing so you can replace the seal. you might as well replace the bearing because there cheap. you also have to remove the plate on the axle housing that has the vacuum lines on it so you can align the outer axle with the auto locking gear and the intermediate axle when you put it back in. sounds complicated but i did it twice in a couple of hours each. don't remove the cover plate on the diff and take the clip out, it's just extra work for nothing, sorry crazy.
as for the axle it's 32 mm at least in canada, don't know if the nut is a different size in the states. the 32 also fits the pitman arm so it might be nice to have in your box.
as for the mounts do not jack it up from below. the only place to jack from is the oil pan, bad move, it will collapse. put chains on it an pull it up from the top to relieve the pressure, then replace the bushings.
as for the upper ball joints, soak them in any bolt release stuff (not wd-40) for a couple of days then throw a monkey wrench on it and turn, if that does not work then put a piece of 6 foot pipe on the wrench and turn, works every time.
as for the lower joints they are the most difficult in the yard. e-mail me and i'll tell you how i did it. (got to make your own tools out of hardwood so you don't damage anything) once again easier than it sounds, and if you plan on keeping it you should know how to replace the ball joints
as for the axle it's 32 mm at least in canada, don't know if the nut is a different size in the states. the 32 also fits the pitman arm so it might be nice to have in your box.
as for the mounts do not jack it up from below. the only place to jack from is the oil pan, bad move, it will collapse. put chains on it an pull it up from the top to relieve the pressure, then replace the bushings.
as for the upper ball joints, soak them in any bolt release stuff (not wd-40) for a couple of days then throw a monkey wrench on it and turn, if that does not work then put a piece of 6 foot pipe on the wrench and turn, works every time.
as for the lower joints they are the most difficult in the yard. e-mail me and i'll tell you how i did it. (got to make your own tools out of hardwood so you don't damage anything) once again easier than it sounds, and if you plan on keeping it you should know how to replace the ball joints
My 93 dak axle nut is also a 32. I went out and bought a 33 but it was really sloppy. It got me by but wasn't the right size. 1-1/4 might work but all the bolts seem to be metric so I would stick with 32mm. I just finished pulling my front axle and ball joints out. The ball joints were a PITA but I got it done. Im going to do a write up for it when I get time. Crazy4x4RT helped out big time. With out his help I would have just taken the truck to the shop.
When doing the drive shaft, dont you have to remove the brake assembly and also the shock to get clearance to the bolts which connect to the transfer case?
Also for the top ball joint, could you use a large pipe wrench with a cheater bar on the handle?
When doing the drive shaft, dont you have to remove the brake assembly and also the shock to get clearance to the bolts which connect to the transfer case?
Also for the top ball joint, could you use a large pipe wrench with a cheater bar on the handle?